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H16 rattly engine


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#1 glgrumpy OFFLINE  

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Posted June 25, 2017 - 10:37 AM

New to me H16XL tractor. Seems to run OK but knocks like when first starting the starter motor, then if it runs rough, kinda noisy in chassis. This is not motor knock, I'm saying chassis rattle?  Now have looked at manuals here (thanks) and see those rubber engine mounts and wondering if they could just be shot? Seems there is a space needed below engine to adjust with spacers on mounts, AND, the mount itself if weak might allow metals to touch where they are located??  What think? I'll have to go out and get hood off this thing, powerwash and see what condition things are. Whole underhood area is black with oily gunk and think exhaust soot. I've cleaned the carb on outside with cleaner and now can SEE it at least, ha!  Other item to check I guess is going to be the drive shaft joints. Hope it's not those, expensive repairs on those darn shafts.


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#2 Gtractor OFFLINE  

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Posted June 25, 2017 - 10:48 AM

No experience with a Bolens that new but I have an older - tube frame that has the rag joint bad in the driveline. 

 

It stomps like a disco!  making you think its going to fly apart any second.


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#3 chieffan OFFLINE  

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Posted June 25, 2017 - 12:41 PM

Those rubber motor mount were bad on two of the ones I got.  I used rubber belting from a Farm 7 Home store, cut 2", give or take, circles out and punched a hole in the center.  Put three on the bottom of the mount and 3 on top with the large fender washers and cinched them down real snug.  Motor quit shaking and noise went away.  Glad you went forward with the H16XL.  Once you get the little bugs worked out you will like that tractor.

 

Check those drive shaft joints as they could be bad also like Gtractor mentioned.


Edited by chieffan, June 25, 2017 - 12:44 PM.

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#4 boyscout862 ONLINE  

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Posted June 25, 2017 - 06:57 PM

Those rubber motor mount were bad on two of the ones I got.  I used rubber belting from a Farm 7 Home store, cut 2", give or take, circles out and punched a hole in the center.  Put three on the bottom of the mount and 3 on top with the large fender washers and cinched them down real snug.  Motor quit shaking and noise went away.  Glad you went forward with the H16XL.  Once you get the little bugs worked out you will like that tractor.
 
Check those drive shaft joints as they could be bad also like Gtractor mentioned.

I love your shade tree mechanicing. I do the same for body mounts but use the softer rubber from the liner inside 20" split rims. Good Luck, Rick

#5 glgrumpy OFFLINE  

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Posted June 25, 2017 - 07:45 PM

The mounts need that solid center tube for bolts to tighten to. Then that whole center section can float some, no transfer then. Don't get that squishing in rubber. Think mounts ok. Washed it today, looked things over. Found rag joints, no universls. They also seemed snug. Playing with carb, And found main ground wire off engine. Batt cable I mean. Seems to start easier. Darn carb only has one jet to adjust. Manual says wide open, set for smooth run. Get that, but when slowing it sues bad. Adjust that out and good idle, then high speed rich again! Thinking carb rebuild. Drove it around some after power wash.

#6 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted June 26, 2017 - 07:13 AM

Went back through your pics, that isn't the same carb as on any of my Tec OH160's. Either Bolens required a different carb or that one is aftermarket.

The OH16's are rough running motors in aspect to vibration. The one in my Seas will sometimes make my feet feel numb at certain rpm's due to the vibrations through clutch and foot boards, mine are all solids mounted to frame.



#7 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted June 26, 2017 - 08:52 AM

On my H16 I can only get a good idle or a good high end not both. Right now it idles so bad it shuts down. Not sure on yours GL but it sounds like it's in the mounts.

#8 glgrumpy OFFLINE  

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Posted June 27, 2017 - 12:39 AM

Sawdust, that's how this one acts. Manual says if it stops, turn up idle speed, sheesh.




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