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Bolens G10 Running Issues


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#1 Dubmatix OFFLINE  

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Posted June 17, 2017 - 12:44 PM

My recently aquired G10 (in a strange shade of blue) has suddenly started misfiring. I suspect the riveted terminals on the back of the ignition switch are not helping.  Also as it would not start with any choke applied, and applying any choke after starting made it cut out, i suspected that it might be having airflow problems.   I checked the air filter and it's a Tecumseh branded one so could well be the original!! Eeeek!  I think i may need to order a few bits in from Stateside.  It ran well after i took the filter out (for testing only of course!) but after cutting out it has returned to missing.

 

I am going to have a look at the ignition switch and if it is not fixable (could the rivets be tweaked back to hold the terminals again maybe? Could they be soldered?) i was looking at UK supplied parts as alternatives. This looks to be the same manufacturer, has a couple of extra unnecessary terminals and the terminal type is wrong but nothing insurmountable.

 

http://www.ebay.co.u...~gAAOSw8cNUPiYy

 

As for locally available air filter equivalents, does anyone have any suggestions for the Tecumseh side mounted circular filter?

 

I also dropped the screw from the air filter housing and it dropped under the decking into the ivy undergrowth...does anyone know what thread size/type this is  as i am sure it's not metric!

 

In addition (this list is getting longer!)  i noticed that the 4 screws that go through the plate towards the front of the frame, into the tubes and what looks like central  the front axle casting, 2 are missing.  What size are these?

 

Will post  a pic of it after i abandoned trying to get it to run nicely today.

 

Regards

 

John

 



#2 Dubmatix OFFLINE  

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Posted June 17, 2017 - 01:16 PM

Pic of it from earlier. I reread my post and it wasn't clear that the riveted contacts on the back of the switch have worked loose. Will take the switch out later and have a better look at it.

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#3 Cnc OFFLINE  

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Posted June 17, 2017 - 03:08 PM

With regard to the ignition switch it is best to know what terminals are open or closed in the different key positions on your switch before comparing what is out there. An assumption that a switch looks the same with a few extra terminals could result in bigger problems like sending a + current to the grounding wire of the coil.
The wiring diagrams in the Bolens shop manuals show the ignition switch positions and armed with that you can compare what will work as an after market switch as many of the on line sellers post the same type of diagram of the switch they are selling.
This link should bring up a manual with the appropriate diagrams for your tractor.
https://www.slidesha...656-h16-1884014
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#4 Dubmatix OFFLINE  

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Posted June 17, 2017 - 04:09 PM

Thanks that manual looks very useful. I'll see if I can download a copy to print out. As far as I can tell there is no 0v connection the original switch. I'm thinking Batt+, Ign, Start, but I see I have a fourth wire just to be awkward:) I'll have a look at the circuit to see what that is.


John


Edited by Dubmatix, June 17, 2017 - 06:10 PM.

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#5 Dubmatix OFFLINE  

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Posted June 17, 2017 - 04:19 PM

I also want to paint this the proper colours at some point, but it has some work to do over the summer.
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#6 Dubmatix OFFLINE  

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Posted June 17, 2017 - 05:56 PM

Hmmmm now i'm really confused!  The actual and the diagram really don't match!   Looking at the terminals i refreshed today, the old ones looked like 1970s period so likely original, however my wiring doesn't match the drawing.   I have posted the two  for comparison.  Odd!  I think i need to trace my wires out to see if wire colours may have been changed if it got some rewiring work.  Then work out how the switch is actually switching, maybe that is not original though it looks the right age.   It could have been "adapted" for use in the tractor and wired accordingly.

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#7 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted June 17, 2017 - 08:23 PM

These switches on the Tubeframe Bolens were very specific with most not having an aftermarket for them, just because it looks the same outside does not mean the internals are the same.

 

The switch you have in your picture is the 1722275 , I do stock them along with the air filter you need if you want to pay the shipping overseas.

 

The bolts are generally standard hardware and the illustrated parts lists for them list the sizes.


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#8 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted June 18, 2017 - 11:55 AM

I think you have had some re-wiring done and probably a switch replaced.  There is an old saying "Green is ground the world around".  Your switch has a green wire going to the Batt. terminal.  I would start with the correct switch and then trace the wires out from end to end to be sure they are in the right place.  Go back to the original color code and I think you will be happy and save time in the long run.


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#9 heliosuk OFFLINE  

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Posted June 18, 2017 - 12:00 PM

Hi Dubs,
The switch in post one will work though expensive. Try garden hire spares. I think I got one from there. Key thing to watch is the off position to kill the engine. They have air filters as well.
As regards bolt sizes most USA stuff is UK UNF/UNC but not exact. I tend to re tap everything or helicoil/thread insert to metric and use stainless fixings. Slightly more expensive but they don't seize due to rust and you must never use a lubricant on critical fixings as gives misleading torque readings!
Rgds
Phil.
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#10 Dubmatix OFFLINE  

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Posted June 18, 2017 - 03:09 PM

Thanks all, i cleaned up and checked continuity from the rivets to the tabs and getting good values and i've squeezed one rivet to improve it.  Refitted today and things are generally much better. Running was good, and i let it run for a good while.  I also noted that the black wire connects via a inline fuse to a black/red (or black/orange, hard to see)  wire.  I think i remember seeing some two colour wires on some of the other wiring diagrams.  Agree, someone has been messing with it over time.  Vehicle Wiring Products do a good range of auto cabling stuff so i will look at rewiring this over time.

 

Thanks for the advice on bolts, i was thinking about tweaking out ot the nearest metric equivalents where necessary.  I'll have a look at the IPC though and see what they  should be and see what i can get from my local helpful fasteners place.

 

I test fitted the mow deck today and it runs, (belt is too short so runs continuosly) but i also found that the PTO UJ coupler (spline to square) is really close to the main drive pulley and it coming into contact with it when under load.  I suspect my missing bolts are causing the front end to tilt pushing the UJ up slightly but there is not much clearance even when standing still.  it looks to have done this in the past as there are small chips out of the main pulley edge.  Is this just the front end mount?  I'll fix that first and see how it goes.   What is the nomal clearance i should have between the adapter and the main drive (not pto) pulley?

 

I'll try and find the manual for the mow deck in the manuals section, could do with an exploded view of the linkages to make sure it is complete.  The rear links don't look right to me.

 

Been doing the rounds with grease gun and oilcan today as everything was bone dry. 

 

Did at least cut some grass in reverse, this doesnt seem to cause the UJ/pulley impact (which also suggests that it is the bolt issue on the front end causing movement when moving forward and hence this  reduction in clearance).

 

Cheers all

 

John


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#11 Dubmatix OFFLINE  

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Posted June 23, 2017 - 03:58 PM

Can anyone post a picture of a G10 mid mount mowing deck PTO showing the clearance to the main pulley as the clearance is too small on mine even with the front end tight.  Maybe it should have a coupler with a spacer on it?


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#12 Dubmatix OFFLINE  

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Posted June 24, 2017 - 01:34 PM

Now I know my deck is not on but should the clearance be about 3-4 mm between the body of the UK and the drive PULLEY? Under load there is enough vibration and flex for these two to make contact.

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#13 Dubmatix OFFLINE  

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Posted June 24, 2017 - 01:36 PM

And yes I have only taken this picture with the deck off to give an idea of the clearances we are talking about. The deck was on and connected up when I had the issues.
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#14 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted June 25, 2017 - 08:15 AM

Everything looks setup right , someone may have put a short belt on there and has the pto raised up all the way


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#15 Dubmatix OFFLINE  

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Posted June 27, 2017 - 05:02 PM

Everything looks setup right , someone may have put a short belt on there and has the pto raised up all the way


I think you have it with that. I will set it up with the new belt when I get it and see how it sits. Thanks for that.
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