Jump to content

Garden Tractors and Parts on eBay



Photo
* * * * - 2 votes

Update on the 1556


  • Please log in to reply
4 replies to this topic

#1 Rainier OFFLINE  

Rainier
  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Member No: 53758
  • 449 Thanks
  • 452 posts
  • Location: Kingston wa.

Posted June 06, 2017 - 05:46 PM

If you remember, I have been looking for a Eaton 10 replacement pump. I picked up a used one from eBay. Put it in and got nothing. It would barely spin the wheels when jacked up.
I put it in the shed and started looking for another pump. It sat in the shed for about a month. Went out yesterday and fired it up, just to hear it run, and when I pushed on the pedal , it tried to move on it's own. I did this a few times and it got better and better. Next thing I know I'm driving it out of the shed on it's own power.
Took it for a ride around the yard and within minutes it was like brand new. I put it up against a log pile and the tire would spin with no problem. I have a steep hill out back and it went up and down with no problem.its like it fixed its self. I don't know much about these pumps, but when I bought it, it sat dry for several months before I got around to installing it. Is it possible the fluid brought something inside back to life. I have never read anywhere if you are suppose to prime these pumps before use. I did notice that the reservoir was about 1/4 of a quart low. Any input should be great .
  • boyscout862, Austen, Oldford and 1 other said thanks

#2 Clevis OFFLINE  

Clevis
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 82966
  • 224 Thanks
  • 143 posts
  • Location: Clark County, Washington

Posted June 06, 2017 - 07:06 PM

That's great, Rainier. Nothing like the disappointment of having a new part and repair attempt not work out. It sounds like it just needed the air purged or bled out. I haven't put in a new pump, but I've changed fluid in both my HT20 and my newer JD mower. I know after you do a fluid change you should jack up the drive axel so it's not under load, and then pedal it forward and back until the air purges and you get normal response from the hydro. Then you re-check fluid levels. I suppose with a dry install the purging process would take even longer than with a fluid change. Did you try to purge the air after your install? Maybe just sitting for a while let the fluid seep in and the air bubble out.

Edited by Clevis, June 06, 2017 - 07:26 PM.

  • boyscout862 and Rainier have said thanks

#3 EricFromPa OFFLINE  

EricFromPa

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2135
  • 3,384 Thanks
  • 3,015 posts
  • Location: Bedford County Pa.

Posted June 06, 2017 - 07:43 PM

Air trapped in the system. You have to bleed the pump and hydro lift or just let them sit for a while and it will bleed it's self since the tank is higher than the pump. You can loosen up the top hard line for the lift cylinder on the top of the charge pump and it would of bleed the air out pretty quick. 

 

That's awesome she bleed her self enough to purge most of the air out.


Edited by EricFromPa, June 06, 2017 - 07:44 PM.

  • Rainier and Clevis have said thanks

#4 Bud W OFFLINE  

Bud W

    New Member

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2359
  • 302 Thanks
  • 287 posts
  • Location: Cly, Pennsylvania

Posted June 07, 2017 - 09:19 AM

I just replaced the Eaton 10 in my 1256 with one that I refurbished. I took the plug out just behind where the tube from the reservoir is and filled it there while turning the input shaft. It took a while to get it full, I thhink almost 2 quarts before it wouldn't take anymore. Then installed the reservoir and topped it off.



#5 Husky OFFLINE  

Husky

    Member

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 63
  • 1,237 Thanks
  • 1,098 posts

Posted June 07, 2017 - 03:31 PM

I did the same as Bud on all my 1556's. Done four that way after replacing hoses and fluids. Alyays worked well. Happy to hear you're up and running.




Top