Picked up 16 OHV engine at show to put in this tractor. cleaned it up. The flywheel mags and stator were all junked up. My 14 flywheel and stator seem to be fine on it. Was not getting any spark, durn! Took the coil unit from the 14 also and it sparks good, yippee! BUT, the end that goes on the plug is torn up. Does not appear the boots on those wires are loose and cab be changed or such?? Darn metal end in it, doesn't even wrap around the plug top, just sets beside it, rubber boot holding all the tension. SO, it's kinda half-*** on there, hope it will stay. Is there some fix for this situation? I will be bolting into frame soon to try to run it. I'm thinking the intake/carb is little diff, no long intake duct, but thinking 14 has that, will have to look again. Don't know if should change any of that over, or just leave the straight carb that is on it now. Guess will depend on air cleaner clearance for things, we'll see. Not sure of exhaust set-up yet either, will be looking into that.
GT 14 Update
Posted June 06, 2017 - 05:37 PM
- Sawdust and chieffan have said thanks
Posted June 07, 2017 - 12:13 AM
The ohv 14 and 16 should be pretty identical in design and appearance. I believe only the bore and stroke are different between the two.
- chieffan said thank you
Posted June 07, 2017 - 07:21 AM
If you have enough wire to the plug, yes you can put a new metal end and rubber cap on. Put the cap on first then the end. Otherwise use a small long nose plier to reshape the metal end so it fits tight on the plug.
Posted June 07, 2017 - 04:55 PM
Posted June 07, 2017 - 04:57 PM
Cheif, that's just it, the darn metal on these does NOT wrap the end of plug. The rubber does all the holding I guess, the end on wire is thick and just kinda snaps down into that groove on plug end and rubber makes it have tension and stay. The rubber is mostly gone on that one side, the metal is still covered. Maybe a picture if I get out there. Not much wire length to work with to add diff type end on it.
Posted June 07, 2017 - 05:37 PM
Edited by glgrumpy, June 07, 2017 - 05:38 PM.
Posted June 07, 2017 - 05:43 PM
Today, after buying $100 worth of better sized pullers and ending up using about $50 worth, (heh!), got the pulley off. I ended up cutting outer one off some for puller to pass bolts by it for rear one. Was thinking all one pulley, but was actually two and two keys. Here's what's left of them. Shaft cleaned up nice, now have to get one of those size sleeves for the other pulley.
Edited by glgrumpy, June 08, 2017 - 06:19 PM.
Posted June 08, 2017 - 06:17 PM
Edited by glgrumpy, June 08, 2017 - 06:20 PM.
Posted June 10, 2017 - 04:31 PM
This thing is ON my Nerves and I Want it Gone!!! Sorta had engine running today, only medium throttle to keep it going. NOW, oil is running down from somewhere behind side tin, maybe from OHV area?? And it looks grey, even tho just changed it. When cranking also seems to be hydro-locking like, so maybe leaks inside too?? I'm tire of it! I made real nice chassis, tec engines are junk to me in the OHV state, I want to be done with it, YOU like it, come buy and do your own magic!
I now have This G14, a junker G9 and QT16. It kinda runs/drives, needs some work too. I have lots of little things bought new and in them, just don't want to work on Bolen's anymore. This is worst brand I have ever tinkered with. Some new tires on 14, new clutch/brake discs, chassis painted up nice. Come look, bring a trailer big enough for all three and some cash and I'll let them go. $300 for the works, three tractors, or ??? 3pt on the QT I just got, should almost be worth the package price. Two decks, one for 14 and one for 16. Blade for the 14. Wanna see it leaving my place!!!
- MH81 said thank you
Posted June 10, 2017 - 06:56 PM
The push rod tubes have O rings betting yours are cracked. They leak all over the darn place. Have to pull the head to fix it so a new head gasket and valve cover gasket is also needed.
Wish you was closer I would take the lot of them. Sadly no way to get them here. To darn far away.
- Bolens 1000 said thank you
Posted June 11, 2017 - 09:23 AM
Plug boots can be had almost anywhere for couple bucks, or from a donor engine.
Shaft bushings can be had at Ace Hardware, any farm store, or places like motion industries. You most likely will have to cut your own key slot. An angle grinder with a cutoff wheel will do the job just fine.
Most of the hard work is done!!! Don't let it beat you, it takes time, and patience. If it starts to get frustrating, just walk away, and resume another time. You'll be glad ya did;)
Posted June 11, 2017 - 09:49 AM
Edited by glgrumpy, June 12, 2017 - 06:34 PM.
Posted June 12, 2017 - 08:53 PM
Hey! Happier moments tonight. Put carb from orig engine on and it runs and idles and all like it should. The throttle control does not pull it right. Maybe not hooked up right? Have pictures, what think? Oil was squirting out a big on hole in tin in pictures, lower one. More I ran at idle, didn't do that. Now, might dribble some when revved up, but not squirting out. Was gonna make video, but can't post here anymore. I got the pulley and spacer on and fits great! Belts on. Pto comes on, needs belts tighter I can see. Got on and tried trans, but barely moved, darn I thought. Then, remembered the drive pin in axle was out. Put that in and backed it each way about a foot in diff gears, yay! SO, getting better, not sure on the oil issue yet. Quite a deal to tear all that valve stuff off to look. I have some pictures, but gotta go to work now. Might post from there off phone if any time. Thanks for encouragement!
Posted June 13, 2017 - 02:47 AM
Posted June 13, 2017 - 03:00 AM