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Bolens 1256, more problems


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#1 hiltu OFFLINE  

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Posted June 03, 2017 - 11:36 AM

It appears its heading toward being a lawn ornament. I've fought this machine and thinned my wallet out over it for months. Here is a video to show it currently. Replaced the stator ignition module and put correct coil on it. Started right up and drove it around. Appeared to be low on power so the next day I adjusted the carb prior to starting it up. Within 20 seconds it started to sound like what you are hearing now. Checked oil level fine, flywheel is on tight, and carb adjustments appear good, plenty of gas as well. Prior to closing it up, i checked spark against the flywheel timing mark and knowing there is no adjustment, i just verified the mark was within the window. I am running out of ideas and sanity. Please help! ATTACHED IS A 15 SECOND VIDEO ON ME STARTING IT TODAY.

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Edited by hiltu, June 03, 2017 - 11:37 AM.


#2 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted June 03, 2017 - 04:05 PM

The panel that the voltage regulator is attached to seems to be bouncing up and down on the top of the head in the video - I don't believe it should be loose like that which might be where the noise is coming from.   The front pulley also seems to be wandering a bit and does not appear to be running true.  I wonder if the flywheel nut has come loose or if the flywheel is loose or not seated properly on the crankshaft - just observations.


Edited by 29 Chev, June 03, 2017 - 06:01 PM.

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#3 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted June 03, 2017 - 04:12 PM

I know what your talking about hiltu.  Been there, done that.  I fought a 1456 the same way you have.  Came to the conclusion that the large frames are good tractors as long as they DO NOT have an electronic ignition Wisconsin in them.  Best fix is to dump that engine and drop in a points one.  Just my opinion and it won't change but sure made me steer clear of any large frame.



#4 hiltu OFFLINE  

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Posted June 03, 2017 - 10:57 PM

29 Chev, i too noticed how much the regulator moves but don't see what it not connected. I will check the flywheel and see if it is running true or not. I appreciate the suggestions for sure!



#5 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted June 04, 2017 - 06:39 AM

Heres a dumb question , could the flywheel key be slightly sheared causing the timing to be off?

Have you installed a new keyway?



#6 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted June 04, 2017 - 06:56 AM

One other thought might be that the front nose of the crankshaft is bent at the front or cracked causing it to flex when running. 



#7 hiltu OFFLINE  

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Posted June 04, 2017 - 10:43 AM

Heres a dumb question , could the flywheel key be slightly sheared causing the timing to be off?

Have you installed a new keyway?

Reused the key that was there, appeared in good condition. Crankshaft was replaced during rebuild. I will be pulling it apart in a couple days and inspecting everything.



#8 heliosuk OFFLINE  

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Posted June 04, 2017 - 03:19 PM

The regulator vibrating is a bit nebulous as the big clue is the front end pulley radial movement seems to give it away. There could be a few possible reasons for this:
Fly Wheel loose....unlikely as is on a taper I believe
Bent crank shaft.....a good possibility but unlikely unless it's been dropped.
Collapsed crank bearing......more than likely??

Not so sure I'd agree with the points comments, I've always found the solid state ignition to be ultra reliable unlike points which take a long time to set accurately and wear!!

#9 bonusbuilt1950 ONLINE  

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Posted June 04, 2017 - 03:32 PM

Can you take the front cover off and then start it to make sure nothing is hitting it? I'd also see why the regulator plate is bouncing like that. Mine is nice and tight on my 1256. No movement at all. To me, and I know the sound is hard to nail down from a video, it sounds like something hitting something. Just my guess.



#10 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted June 05, 2017 - 08:10 AM

Reused the key that was there, appeared in good condition. Crankshaft was replaced during rebuild. I will be pulling it apart in a couple days and inspecting everything.

Since you state that you replaced the crankshaft did you replace the roller bearings with new ones or ??  If the bearings were replaced with new ones did you follow the manual procedures to set the new bearings using a lead hammer and check the crankshaft end play with a dial gauge? - http://gardentractor...-repair-manual/ (page 23) (I would assume the procedure for the TRA12D would be the same as for the TRA10D)   Looks like the end play should be .002" - .005" cold according to the spec sheet from the Wisconsin web site - http://www.wiengines...55WALLCHART.pdf .  Just asking questions to try to help - if the crankshaft end play is excessive it might be another reason why the front pulley appears to be moving with it running.


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#11 hiltu OFFLINE  

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Posted June 06, 2017 - 02:36 AM

29 Chev, the new crankshaft came with new bearings. Engine was rebuilt at a small engine shop that specializes in racing snowmobiling engines. I can't attest to specifics. I have some time off work so im going to play around with it.


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#12 Bruce Dorsi OFFLINE  

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Posted June 06, 2017 - 09:27 AM

   The front pulley also seems to be wandering a bit and does not appear to be running true. 

 

I'm inclined to believe the noise is because the rope/belt pulley is loose on the flywheel.  .....The bolts holding it on may be "bottomed-out' in the holes in the flywheel, but the pulley is not clamped-down.

 

Those 3 bolts had a flat washer with a rubber face to clamp the screen & pulley.   ...You can use a lock washer and plain flat washer in place of the others.

 

If you replaced the 3 bolts, they may be too long. 


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#13 hiltu OFFLINE  

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Posted June 06, 2017 - 04:17 PM

Went over all the suggestions in the comments with no success. Runs like garbage with the metallic noise and only at higher RPM, will not idle. Checked the whole tractor over to look for loose items and parts with nothing found. Unable to remove the flexing out of sheet metal holding the voltage regulator. I really wish this was something external to the motor but its leaning more toward inside. Im going crazy over here.



#14 heliosuk OFFLINE  

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Posted June 06, 2017 - 05:09 PM

I think you need to pull the front engine cover off, remove the spark plug and video the front engine rotation utilising a fixed pointer as everything to me points to either an excessive end float on the crank or a bent crank. The vibration through to the regulator is all pointing to this. The main thing and what's great about these tractors is that they are relatively simple to fix.

Just think of it as an easy one as the last engine rebuild I did (apart from the HH100 on my bench now) was an experimental W16 arrangement!!

#15 Bruce Dorsi OFFLINE  

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Posted June 06, 2017 - 05:29 PM

What else has been done beside replacing the ignition?

 

Have you been inside the engine??  

 

Loose connecting rod cap? 

 

Rod hitting something?

 

Flyweight on camshaft hitting something?

 

When you turn the engine by hand, do you hear or feel  anything rubbing?

 

Is the hub of the flywheel cracked at the keyway?  (Visible from inside of flywheel.)

 

Piston hitting cylinder head?

 

Carbon build-up on top of piston?


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