Jump to content

Garden Tractors and Parts on eBay



Photo
- - - - -

pto switch


  • Please log in to reply
11 replies to this topic

#1 dodge trucker ONLINE  

dodge trucker
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 19314
  • 1,960 Thanks
  • 2,596 posts
  • Location: kankakee

Posted June 02, 2017 - 10:13 PM

is there an aftermarket PTO switch option that wont make me buy an OEM Ariens one? I cannot find any aftermarket ones with only 4 terminals. Stens, at least, apparently doesn't service this part.

 

this is for a '78 S16H/


Edited by dodge trucker, June 02, 2017 - 10:14 PM.


#2 EricFromPa ONLINE  

EricFromPa

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2135
  • 3,227 Thanks
  • 2,910 posts
  • Location: Bedford County Pa.

Posted June 02, 2017 - 11:37 PM

New Ariens part # 00355900 $70 list price.

 

Jacks small engines has them for $59.80 + shipping or Ebay for $49.40 + shipping. Both are OEM Not seeing any aftermarket part numbers for them.

https://www.jackssma...ariens/00355900

http://www.ebay.com/...SEAAOSwUKxYYsSI

 

Check with our Site sponsors they might have better luck finding a less expensive aftermarket one.


Edited by EricFromPa, June 02, 2017 - 11:40 PM.


#3 shorty ONLINE  

shorty

    Member

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 6172
  • 4,779 Thanks
  • 4,882 posts
  • Location: Lancaster County Pa

Posted June 03, 2017 - 05:14 AM

Wow those options are pricey. I wonder if there would be any other way to do it.

#4 chieffan ONLINE  

chieffan
  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 62695
  • 8,807 Thanks
  • 6,044 posts
  • Location: SW Iowa

Posted June 03, 2017 - 07:25 AM

Wow those options are pricey. I wonder if there would be any other way to do it.

Pricey due to the safety switches that go through them.  Eliminate the safety switch hook up and a straight ON/OFF switch will control the clutch OK.  Have you tried cleaning the old switch?  Lot of times they can be serviceable again by using electronic contact cleaner in them.


  • secondtry said thank you

#5 dodge trucker ONLINE  

dodge trucker
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 19314
  • 1,960 Thanks
  • 2,596 posts
  • Location: kankakee

Posted June 03, 2017 - 08:34 AM

the problem with the old one is that it was froze up from not being used for toooo long. I had to put vise grips in the handle and pry it  with a large screwdriver behind the vise grips, to get it to move and now it is too floppy loose. I KNOW that I have seen 4 terminal switches like this on another application over the years... all the PTO switches I can find have 5 or 6 terminals, though the 5 terminal ones look like 4 of the 5 terminals are the same as this.... the 5th one is "in between" the other 4 terminals, wonder what it does/could it be removed and still work as the 4 terminal one was designed to?  

 

I am just getting this crusty old machine going for the 1st time in years. I fixed some shady wiring repairs on it last weekend (did I say I hate Scotchloks?) i just replaced the scotchloks with a soldered and heat shrink repair for now as it seems that nothing was added or deleted,  just some errant repairs to the original harness....

Truthfully I would be surprised if this thing took off and worked as designed as crusty as things are on it... seems like the wiring is in OK shape, copper wire is still nice and yellow and the insulation is still pliable/not brittle but all the ignition components were quite crusty, the ign switch terminals and the voltage regulator terminals are too.... I have a new ignition switch on its way via Ebay.  When I 1st started messing with this thing I disconnected the ignition switch and ran a jumper direct from a remote battery to the coil +, and jumper cables right to the starter, bypassing the tractor's whole wiring system just to see if this engine would run.  now going thru and seeing what I can salvage of the original stuff...

 

I still have that '72 NH and if I remember right, the only "safety" on it is the park/start switch. That will be my "model" by which to rewire both the GT19 and this S16H if it comes down to that..... I got that parts S16 that came to me w/o an engine and "custom torch work" to the frame, I got about 1/2 the wiring tossed in when I picked that machine up as an "oh by the way" but not what I need,.... the pto switch and the ignition switch weren't among what I got with it

 

Always something.... I ran this engine for a good 1/2 hour or so when I first got it going. not a drop of an oil leak. Last weekend as I was putting Humpty Dumpty back together I rotated the engine around by hand so I could get to the driveshaft retaining bolts and came out the next morning to an oil puddle under the engine on the flywheel side. I don't think it is the crank seal because rotating it by hand less than 2 turns, wouldn't be enough to make the dipper throw much oil that high up.... I did mistakenly take out the bolts that hold the block and oil pan instead of the ones that hold the engine into the frame at 1st, so that would be my 1st guess/ as much dust flew as it roared to life I am guessing that I blew apart a mouse house under all that sheet metal when it came to life.... so I'm thinking that the engine will have to come out anyway-- I want to verify the hydro and rear end is good 1st though.

 

the safety interlock board sure looks different from what is on my '83-ish GT19 which I KNOW that I am gonna have to do a safety interlock-ectomy on to make it run.... cuz I am NOT spending $400 on the new updated control module on that thing, that's more than I have in the whole machine besides....  trying to do this "one machine at a time" I guess I'll see if one of the PTO switches on the GT19 (it has F&R PTO) is the same as on this machine for now....



#6 dodge trucker ONLINE  

dodge trucker
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 19314
  • 1,960 Thanks
  • 2,596 posts
  • Location: kankakee

Posted June 03, 2017 - 08:35 AM

Pricey due to the safety switches that go through them.  Eliminate the safety switch hook up and a straight ON/OFF switch will control the clutch OK.  Have you tried cleaning the old switch?  Lot of times they can be serviceable again by using electronic contact cleaner in them.

what is weird is the newer machines have even more idiot proof crap going thru them than this old tractor does and they are cheaper... much cheaper.



#7 James Bosma ONLINE  

James Bosma
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 76126
  • 767 Thanks
  • 390 posts
  • Location: Belleville Ontario Canada

Posted June 03, 2017 - 11:01 AM

I used a Double pull, Double throw toggle switch on my Massey

Down position is used for safety switch, start

Up position is used for P T O operation


  • ducky, shorty and dodge trucker have said thanks

#8 dodge trucker ONLINE  

dodge trucker
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 19314
  • 1,960 Thanks
  • 2,596 posts
  • Location: kankakee

Posted June 03, 2017 - 01:09 PM

well I guess I'll have to dig out the wiring diagram to figure out how I'd wire one in there.... which wire goes where.



#9 James Bosma ONLINE  

James Bosma
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 76126
  • 767 Thanks
  • 390 posts
  • Location: Belleville Ontario Canada

Posted June 03, 2017 - 03:46 PM

Here is how I wired the one in my Massey 

 

DPDT Switch wiring.png

 

When switch is down the engine will start and no power to PTO

When switch is up engine will not start and PTO has power

When switch is in middle off position there is no start  and no power to the PTO

 

 

I used a good automotive switch witch cost about 10 Canadian dollars

This set up will work on all makes and model of garden tractor

 

With the right size washers you should be able to use the factory hole  if hole is too big

 

You can either make short adapter wires or take the factory ones out of the plastic holder 


Edited by James Bosma, June 03, 2017 - 03:53 PM.

  • ducky and shorty have said thanks

#10 dodge trucker ONLINE  

dodge trucker
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 19314
  • 1,960 Thanks
  • 2,596 posts
  • Location: kankakee

Posted June 03, 2017 - 08:43 PM

ok but with 4 wires going to my PTO switch, (all yellow) I just gotta figure out which is "idiot switch in"/"idiot switch out" and "PTO in"/PTO out on the existing switch..... back to the wiring diagram..... didn't touch that machine today, got an Ariens YT driving me crazy for other reasons..... dry rotted tires and fuel pump.  I went to a scrapper guy today and found a matched pair of tires in my size (mine wouldnt hold air for 4 hrs on account of dry rot).... "well, yeah they have a LITTLE dry rot".... you might wanna tube them..." grrrr.... been waiting on my tire guy to bring me tubes for 20X8.00X8 for 2 weeks and am gettin tired of looking at this machine.... so I try to find a pair of better tires..... gotta mount them with rims still attached to tractor as they are seized on the hub, this YT was acquired as a flipper, so now I mounted them, got the beads to seal, put the new diaphragms in the fuel pump and took off around the yard to try and mow.... I made 1/2 of a lap and was stopped in my tracks because one of the tires I JUST got like 3 hours ago went flat..... CRAP! a waste of time to go see the guy and a waste of $25 to be stuck at square 1....



#11 dodge trucker ONLINE  

dodge trucker
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 19314
  • 1,960 Thanks
  • 2,596 posts
  • Location: kankakee

Posted June 06, 2017 - 09:58 PM

well, it's official... the PTO switch on the unit now is SHOT... I grabbed it with a pair of pliers and no prying needed, but the switch stem came out completely.... I know they ain't supposed to do that! I put a brand new ign switch (STENS replacement for original PN it's even made in USA!!!)  because of corrosion on the original one and one of the tabs broke off and tried to stay in the connector....

IDK if it is because of the PTO switch or something else but I have to run a jumper to the + on the coil and a screwdriver across the solenoid at the moment, once running I can unhook the jumper and it will shut off with the key.  I see a few Scotchloks put in by a past owner that I missed....need to remove those and strip, solder and heat shrink those splices and see where that gets me once I rob the PTO switch from my GT19....

I am working on a Cub 1200 simultaneously with this Ariens. The Cub is a '79, this Ariens is either a '77 or 78, this model tractor was apparently made both years.  The Cub has a safety (idiot) switch on the clutch pedal rod  but even so I cannot get over how much simpler the wiring on the Cub is, vs the Rube Goldberg system that Ariens used in the same time frame. 

this Cub looks like another great candidate to be used as a template to go by to rewire the Ariens by.



#12 dodge trucker ONLINE  

dodge trucker
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 19314
  • 1,960 Thanks
  • 2,596 posts
  • Location: kankakee

Posted June 16, 2017 - 09:12 AM

Wow those options are pricey. I wonder if there would be any other way to do it.

there is.... I saw what must have been one of the original Ariens machines from around the time that they bought the line from NH. and looked at its wiring... simple as dirt.  This thing is getting rewired,no doubt about it. It now runs and moves under its own power and I know the engine/trans are good, thatw as the important part before I went thru the effort. 

the one I saw yesterday has the carpeted floorboard, like my NH, that's the 1st tipoff of its age, no ID tag any more.

the guy also had a GT16 there, sounds like he is gonna combine the good parts from both into one... I was trying to convince him to sell me the steel fender pan off of the GT16, he offered me the other one, no advantage there since that one needed fiberglass repair just like the 2 pans I have here already.... nother story.






Top