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Wisconsin ACN drilling holes


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#1 tom tractor OFFLINE  

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Posted May 29, 2017 - 04:10 PM

I am trying to determine the best method for drilling 4 holes in my wisconsin ACN motor. I will be mounting a bell housing transmission to the block. Attached are photos of the placement of the bolts. There appears to be flat spots for holes to be drilled. Each hole will be about 1/4 inch deep and will need to taped for threads.
Any suggestions or specs that I need to be aware of?

Is there a manual online that may include specs?

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Edited by tom tractor, May 29, 2017 - 04:13 PM.


#2 ol' stonebreaker OFFLINE  

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Posted May 29, 2017 - 04:35 PM

  With only 1/4" deep holes you wont have much thread to hold things together even using a bottoming tap.

                                 Mike


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#3 glgrumpy OFFLINE  

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Posted May 29, 2017 - 04:53 PM

This for say Economy tractor??  Maybe someone with one of those and this engine can fill us in more. I think many cases have more casting where the bolts may go, but can't see unless you open crankcase. Might also need much more than 1/4" deep for a decent bolt grip. In some cases like on rear-ends the bolts go all the way thru the metals to inside.  Those same bolts can be pulled and oil runs out of the rear. Have seen that on many things like drop boxes for GT's and big tractors. SO, what I'm saying is, you may have to go deeper and even if it breaks thru, long as bolt doesn't hit moving parts, think it will be fine. Might put sealer on bolt threads when inserting to help keep oil inside a little better then.


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#4 tom tractor OFFLINE  

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Posted May 29, 2017 - 07:02 PM

Do you think this needs to be done by machine shop or by myself with drill press. How hard is the metal? Is there special drill bits and tap set that you would recommend? Also should I take the oil pan off the clean out the reserve if I drill clean through the block into the oil reserve?

#5 classic ONLINE  

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Posted May 29, 2017 - 07:56 PM

Here is the inside of a Wisconsin AKN block. This block is not drilled either, but you can see the four raised pads inside. The overall thickness of the block at the pads is 1/2". You really should have a machine shop do this for you. They will be able to put the holes in the exact right spot. Also, you should strip it down to the bare block. With the crank out, it will make it easy to clamp the block down horizontally for drilling.

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#6 tom tractor OFFLINE  

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Posted May 30, 2017 - 04:36 AM

Wow. Thanks classic. This is perfect. I am always amazed by the knowledge of collectors.
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#7 classic ONLINE  

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Posted May 30, 2017 - 09:51 AM

You're welcome. I figured that the pic would show you what you're working with. If you could leave the bell housing in place and use it as a jig, you could drill the holes yourself with a self centering bit of the correct size. Drilling all of the way through the block won't hurt anything, but use thread sealer on the bolts as you would on the crankshaft bearing covers. As you can see in the pic, those holes are drilled all of the way through the block. It would also be best to get the tap started with the tap chucked in your drill press. Unplug the drill press of course, and turn the chuck by hand.
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#8 classic ONLINE  

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Posted May 31, 2017 - 11:10 AM

I got to thinking about how to go about this. You could use a bushing that fits snugly in the bell housing bolt holes that will accept a smaller drill bit. Once these four holes are drilled, you can use a piloted drill bit to drill the holes to the correct size for the tap being used.

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#9 tom tractor OFFLINE  

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Posted June 05, 2017 - 02:52 PM

Classic - that is exactly what I did. It worked good. The drill bit and tap went through the cast surprisingly easy. Thanks again for the help.




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