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geting bugs out of jim dandy


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#1 bill3t OFFLINE  

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Posted May 29, 2017 - 01:49 PM

little tractor kept stalling yesterday . swoped the carb off from john deere. ran better. finshed my mowing. started mowing again today. startet staling again. swoped the fuel pump from deere also. ran good. now im getting inermitent overload on engine when runing mower deck. it has the k321 engine and electric pto.. there is some  slop in the mounting brackets. may need biger daimeter bolts. and body else have this problem . think the belts and spindle berings are all good. b



#2 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted May 29, 2017 - 03:56 PM

Get some good bug spray and soak it!

I'll let the folks that know better handle it from here!



#3 MNGB ONLINE  

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Posted May 29, 2017 - 04:44 PM

Hi bill3t, by slop in the mount brackets are you meaning the hitch/mule drive attach pins? if so that is pretty normal for these at this age, if the holes are really bad I have drilled them the next size larger and installed larger pins, the bolts on the deck its self should be tight. What do you mean by the engine is overloading? The main thing I find with the Kohler engines is the carb throttle shaft5 and its bore in the carb wear to the point you can not get the engine to run right at all RPM's and the best way to repair that is to on on e bay and buy a new aftermarket carb and install it the engine will run like new again have replaced 4 / 5 now all with good outcomes.

 

PS on the sloppy mount bolts if you make them to tight it can make it harder to get them in place when installing.


Edited by MNGB, May 29, 2017 - 04:46 PM.

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#4 bill3t OFFLINE  

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Posted May 29, 2017 - 06:13 PM

just got to keep at it till i figure it all out. im sure the fuel pump i repaced was weak.  the mower deck worked fine last year. but now the engine want to quit runing  after mowing for about a hour with pto engaged to mow. maybe in need to check and clean gas cap vent hole.


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#5 todapuckett OFFLINE  

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Posted May 29, 2017 - 08:25 PM

I had that issue, and it wound up being the fuel cap.  I could get about an hour before it just wouldn't go with any load on it.  I could fill the gas tank and it would run fine for awhile and then it would start sputtering.  I even replaced the cap and it would do it, second new cap worked fine. Try blowing through the cap valve, you will smell like gas for awhile, but you will know if it is venting.  I will also recomend making sure the engine is clean, no grass or rat nests inside the tins around the cooling fins.  Also, the valves may need adjusting.  I am in North Carolina, and it gets really hot, so I have also wrapped the fuel line in foil to help keep it from boiling/vapor locking.

 

Keep us updated


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#6 bill3t OFFLINE  

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Posted June 07, 2017 - 04:30 PM

did some more mowing.still having shut downs . tried cleaning the cap. tried runing with cap loose. still geting hot. wating  for a new cap to come in. the mystery continues.b



#7 MNGB ONLINE  

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Posted June 07, 2017 - 04:53 PM

Hi Bill, does your engine have points and automotive coil battery ignition or is it the Kohler breakerless ignition?



#8 bill3t OFFLINE  

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Posted June 07, 2017 - 07:35 PM

it had the breakerless when i got it. swiched it over to points  when found old was no good. i might be trying a new condenser if new fuel cap dosnt work.b



#9 bill3t OFFLINE  

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Posted June 09, 2017 - 01:08 PM

got a new capfrom oreillys.master pro select. maid in taiwan. same thing got hot and stalled.released cap. had pressure in tank. other cap never had pressure build up. think i will try new condenser next.b



#10 MNGB ONLINE  

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Posted June 09, 2017 - 01:26 PM

Hi Bill if the tank had pressure when you loosened the cap that means the cap is not vented, the cap that works on these is a stant 10623 its a vented cap that fits and works. I have serious doubts it the condenser when they are bad the engine will run ruff backfire then run fine for a bit and start all over never had one that just stopped but anything is possible and a condenser is easy to change.

Hi again you posted you converted the engine from breakerless to points ignition did you use a new coil and condenser and points?

When you say it shuts down how does it act is it like the switch is turned off or does it miss / struggle and slow stop. any backfireing?

When you changed it over to points did install a new key switch and all new wires from the switch to the coil and from the coil to the points  is the condenser connect to the - terminal of the coil and that wire going to the points?


Edited by MNGB, June 09, 2017 - 03:38 PM.

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#11 bill3t OFFLINE  

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Posted June 09, 2017 - 04:43 PM

ignition was all new stuff. from switch, coil.condenser.plug wire and points. condenser on neg terminal. points wire on positive terminal. think its woking better now. cleaned up the points. changed the condenser. adjusted the exhaust pipe.was rubing on side of  support. put the top shrould back on. my small engine manuel  said engine shut down was likely to be gas cap or condenser.  the new gas cap may be ok it didnt have pressure build up after cheking it this time. dont think i had it fully tightened when first put on.  starting to feel victorious. b



#12 MNGB ONLINE  

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Posted June 09, 2017 - 04:57 PM

Do you have the wire from the switch to the coil on the coil + terminal and the wire from the coil - terminal to the points and the condenser connected to the - terminal? I ask because you posted "points wire on positive terminal"



#13 bill3t OFFLINE  

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Posted June 10, 2017 - 08:17 AM

 i believe the condenser is on - terminal. may have to check im still waking up. enjoytheday finaly some nice sun out there.b



#14 MNGB ONLINE  

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Posted June 10, 2017 - 08:38 AM

Yes, but are the points also on the - terminal? The points and condenser must be on the same wire.

Enjoy the good day its going to be in the 90's here today much too hot for me and the wind is blowing going to really dry things out.



#15 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted June 10, 2017 - 05:43 PM

I just gotta ask! What bug spray are you using?


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