Actually, I don't think what you have shown us in the pictures of what you have done is all that bad, pretty decent looking!, especially if you haven't done any plowin' before!! What is that ol' sayin' about 'our worst critic is ourselves' -
Sure, probably like everyone else, when I was 13 - 17 or so, I KNEW IT ALL!, AND KNEW THAT I DID!! But then again, like everyone else, as I got a bit older, begin to find out just how much I didn't know, (maybe forgot some things?
There are some good threads here on the forums that I thought had very pertinent info that would be very useful.
You mentioned you had already read through these threads:
Proper way of setting up a one bottom plow
the tech article HERE:
and this one
Turning Plow 101
a very succinctly well-written article, nothing extra, just what one needs who hasn't done it before, or used a gt to do it...
the only problem i had with the treads was, they "hid" them in the implements forum, and Kenny's "ISN'T EVEN A STICKEY"
JMHO, I would say the threads in this forum, 'Gardening
' - seem to be more about AFTER
the garden is in,
and the threads in this forum, 'Tilling & Plowing
' - are more about the basics of the "how-to-get-there" to put the garden in...
Many good threads here, I've quoted some parts I thought were very pertinent to plowing, (and think those who made them deserve the credit for doing so),
...These plows were made to work with a wide variety of different brands of tractors and different brands are different widths across the back tires. The plow has to line up correctly with the right rear tire or it wont work properly...
...The inside of your front tire should line up with the inside of the rear tire. That way, as you plow the inside of both tires sits snugly against the furrow wall.
The first year I plowed the rear tires were turned "inward" so the outside edges of the tires matched. I kept trying to put the front tire snug against the furrow, ended up fighting the tractor since the rear tires were snug against the furrow before the front could get there...
post 4, the pics
...If the dirt from the furrow is falling back into the furrow after the plow passes there are a few things you could try. Speed would one, you should be moving at a brisk walking pace, about 4 mph. If the ground was on a slope, when you tried to throw uphill it would more easily roll back down, can't help you with that one. I think maybe plowing less deep, or adjusting the plow for a narrower slice might also help to roll the dirt on over...
...Yes, rust will hurt the way a plow performs. You need to wire wheel and even polish it with a sanding disk. The dirt will slide off a slick plow much better then a rusty one...
post 15, the pic and
...Here is a picture of plough showing what is called suck
If you do not have this because the point is worn you will end up having the plough dancing on its toes trying to get it do dig in
it will not work
...I was struggling figuring out how to use the 10 inch Brinly. I then found the link to the Manual for it.
It was eye opening I was doing it ALL wrong. Once I set it up per the book It works Much better...
...On the ends you can see where I tried to scrape up the sod with a front dozer blade, but all it did was pack things down and bounce me around.
How do you get fresh sod out of a new garden patch? Tiller? York rake? For now it looks like we'll be pulling it by hand...
thanks for any help or advice...
...Bonus was some nice fat tires for mowing grass,..
...We just had the driveway redone so I went with the rubber chains...
the plow pics
MHO, I think there is a time and place for all kinds of equipment and we all seem to find what works best for each of us.
Personally, I don't care for tires being to "fat" - on level ground, welllll, okay, but on very much of a slope, you have to use to much weight to keep them from sliding - and especially if there's any "dampness" involved, (not much difference in slickness between snow and ice or wet grass or leaves). THEN, there's the compaction, so then you HAVE to aerate... bloody, vicious circle, especially if you're as lazy as I seem to be getting...
Next I'm going to pick on your "chains" - yes, if you're concerned about "marking" asphalt or concrete, the type you have are good, BUT, I'm not concerned, so I made my own 2-link chains out of some old tire chains from when I had bigger trucks, kind of a cross between so-called "V-Bar" chains and whatever. They sure don't do much slippin' or slidin'
My Grand-dad had a thing about a plow share, 'grease don't rust' - so when we were done the plowin' - into the wagon shed and smear all parts of it good. Yes, if you live where there is a good bit of sand in the soil, polishes fairly quick, but if the pics you posted in post 33, (other thread), are AFTER you plowed your garden, a plow WILL buck and jump a whole bunch 'til it can SLIDE through the soil, even if you do have a team of Percherons pulling it!
as I said waayyy up there, don't be to hard on yourself, you did a good job,
even a person having done a LOT of plowing sometimes has problems...
Well, I guess I better close this "book" - hope some of the above helped...