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Upper steering column bearing upgrade for Power King tractor.


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#1 classic ONLINE  

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Posted May 20, 2017 - 08:52 PM

I just finished rebuilding the steering column for my '76 PK. When I disassembled the steering column, it had a plastic bushing and a couple of foam washers in the upper column tube. The assembly squeaked and there was play in the worn plastic bushing. The older PK's with the cast iron Ross steering box have a ball bearing assembly in them and I rebuilt a few of those already. The bearing assembly is much better than the cheap plastic bushing. I found that a GM upper column tube bearing fits these older and newer PK tubes. The part number for the bearing is 264887. You also need the spring to keep the tube cap pushed up against the bottom of the steering wheel. Repro springs are made for Willys MB's, CJ-2A's, ect. I found the bearing on ebay by just searching the part number and they run about 20 bucks, and the spring is another 5 bucks.The C shaped spring seat keeps the spring centered on the top of the bearing and I'm sure that they can be found easily. I had a few from old Ross columns, so I didn't have to search for one.
So, if you have play in your upper column, replace that crappy plastic bushing with one of these bearing assemblies. My steering wheel spins super smooth now and no play.

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Edited by classic, May 20, 2017 - 08:57 PM.

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#2 MNGB ONLINE  

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Posted May 21, 2017 - 07:50 AM

Good Morning classic, thanks for the infor on the bearing and spring, I found them on e bay, but where to find the cover / cap and leads?

How is the rebuild on the 76 coming?


Edited by MNGB, May 21, 2017 - 07:51 AM.

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#3 classic ONLINE  

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Posted May 21, 2017 - 09:35 AM

You're welcome GB. I'm just using the cap that was on my column, so I haven't had to search for one. I'll do some searching and see what I can find regarding the cap/cover. I finally got all of the seals in for the rear end. I had to remove the differential/carrier to get at the inner pinion shaft seals so that I could measure them. You have to drive the seals out along with the pinion shaft bearing to replace these seals. There are two of these seals on each pinion shaft to keep the differential oil from mixing with the bull gear housing oil. I can finish cleaning up the rear end parts and assemble them into the frame now. I replaced the sector shaft, sector shaft seal, ball bearings, and bearing cages in the steering column. There was pitting on the old sector shaft where the seal rides, and some pitting on one of the sector shaft pins. The transmission case is all cleaned up and I have new bearings and replacement gears to assemble it with. John Haines hooked me up with a nicer replacement block than the replacement engine that I recently picked up. I will be honing the cylinder to .010 over and I'm going with a new crank, rod, and piston assembly for the rebuild. The guy that I bought the rear PK wheel weights from had original PK front weights, but said that someone else was coming to pick them up. Well, that didn't work out, so I went and picked up the front weights last weekend. The '76 is down to the bare frame now and I'm rebuilding everything. There's like 10,000 pieces to this thing, HA!

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#4 MNGB ONLINE  

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Posted May 21, 2017 - 09:49 AM

Thanks for the update Classic those parts are really looking nice, your going to have a great tractor when your done, when the Kohler's are in good condition they start and run so nice.


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#5 classic ONLINE  

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Posted May 21, 2017 - 10:29 AM

Thanks GB. It's a ton of work, but it's worth it. I have a Cub 147 with a real nice running K321 on it. I picked it up last year for mowing. The block is black, so I think it might be a replacement engine. It starts up instantly every time and I haven't had to do anything to it since replacing the carburetor when I first got it. I couldn't adjust the carburetor to get it to run good since it had a loose throttle shaft. A good used carburetor fixed that!
I'm also digging into a 1960 Page tractor that I picked up last weekend, so I've been real busy wrenching lately. Always some sort of project in the works!
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#6 MNGB ONLINE  

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Posted May 21, 2017 - 10:46 AM

Hey classic tell me more about the Page is it the rear engine model?

Yes I think one of the biggest things about the Kohler K series is the carb worn throttle shaft I've replace at least 5 carbs with new after market carbs and the engines run like new again also did install a new throttle shaft bushing on one old carb and that made it good again but the cost of a new bushing and throttle shaft is more than a complete new aftermarket carb.


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#7 classic ONLINE  

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Posted May 21, 2017 - 12:05 PM

I haven't tried the aftermarket Kohler carbs yet GB, I'll have to keep that in mind. The Page is a 1960 front engine model. It was an auction find and it's rough! I'm working on it along with the '76 PK. I'm gathering up parts from my stash to rebuild the Briggs 23AFB on the Page today. Here's the relic.

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#8 Mark 149 J. OFFLINE  

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Posted May 21, 2017 - 02:32 PM

I just finished rebuilding the steering column for my '76 PK. When I disassembled the steering column, it had a plastic bushing and a couple of foam washers in the upper column tube. The assembly squeaked and there was play in the worn plastic bushing. The older PK's with the cast iron Ross steering box have a ball bearing assembly in them and I rebuilt a few of those already. The bearing assembly is much better than the cheap plastic bushing. I found that a GM upper column tube bearing fits these older and newer PK tubes. The part number for the bearing is 264887. You also need the spring to keep the tube cap pushed up against the bottom of the steering wheel. Repro springs are made for Willys MB's, CJ-2A's, ect. I found the bearing on ebay by just searching the part number and they run about 20 bucks, and the spring is another 5 bucks.The C shaped spring seat keeps the spring centered on the top of the bearing and I'm sure that they can be found easily. I had a few from old Ross columns, so I didn't have to search for one.
So, if you have play in your upper column, replace that crappy plastic bushing with one of these bearing assemblies. My steering wheel spins super smooth now and no play.

Classic,

Thanks for the info on the column upgrade!  When you assemble the column could you take pictures of how you assemble the bearing, spring, clip, and steering wheel?  I'd like to do the same upgrade on my Cub 149.  It has the Ross column.  Do you know if the PK and the Cub are the same?

Thanks


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#9 classic ONLINE  

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Posted May 21, 2017 - 03:26 PM

You're welcome. I hate those plastic bushings!!! I had a column from a Cub 147 disassembled in my shed, so I grabbed another bearing, spring, spring clip, and a crusty cap. The worm gear shaft is not mounted in the column, so I was able to stick it out the top of the tube to show you how the assembly goes. The Cub and PK do have the same diameter tube and shaft. Just put some silicone around the outside of the new bearing before sliding it into place. The cap, spring, and spring clip, spin with the steering wheel.

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#10 Mark 149 J. OFFLINE  

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Posted May 21, 2017 - 03:40 PM

That was quick!  Thanks!!!


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#11 classic ONLINE  

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Posted May 21, 2017 - 08:23 PM

You're welcome Mark. I had the parts handy and I was tinkering with the Page, so it was a good time to take a few pics for you.




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