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2754 GLS info needed


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#1 glgrumpy OFFLINE  

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Posted May 17, 2017 - 10:22 PM

Paid $50 for tractor w/out engine, sound familiar? Whole rig not old. Can I get date from ID numbers? Not sure where to go for this on'line. Think they are made by AYP or they bought them or something?? When first seen it had a blade on it, no deck, and chains. Would not roll, even with the wire out back pulled out. We got it back to our site and took off the blade and chains, then turned it up on side some. Seemed the brake was sticking. We remove the caliper and now tractor pushes with wire pull out, locks when it is put back in. SO, hoping the rear is ok. Has vertical engine originally. KInda expensive and harder to find used, so thinking of just trying to put in Briggs or other vertical twin of smaller size to get it to be run-able. Belt drive back to trans. Not sure if should have electric pto or just what, there is a space in the dash with nothing in it, labeled mower start. Looks too big to be just a switch and no wires near there. ARe they mechanical? Will have to find some manuals, not sure yet if anything on here. Guess could try brand on web and see where it goes.

Model 960430066 00
Serial 042409B001657

Is there a place to tell how to read these?

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Edited by glgrumpy, May 17, 2017 - 10:24 PM.

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#2 gopher OFFLINE  

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Posted May 17, 2017 - 11:48 PM

All basically same. Should be pull switch in open hole on right side. There electric clutch. Google model number, pdf operation- Husqvarna, user manual.


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#3 EricFromPa OFFLINE  

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Posted May 18, 2017 - 01:16 AM

I'll give ya $50 for the tires off of it lol

 

2008 by the model number.Found a manual for it on husqvarnas site.

http://www.husqvarna...n_o0802078_.pdf

 

Actually I could really use the front tires and rims if you decide to part it out.


Edited by EricFromPa, May 18, 2017 - 01:19 AM.

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#4 chieffan OFFLINE  

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Posted May 18, 2017 - 07:02 AM

Nice looking lawn tractor.  Should not be to hard to get it operational as your over half way there already.  Lot of them around so finding a deck should not be to hard.  Get it all up and going good and flip it.  With all the rain old mowers will be dieing off and people looking maybe ? ?


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#5 glgrumpy OFFLINE  

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Posted May 18, 2017 - 07:56 PM

Well today found another but lighter model. Looks like dash/hood, most of body all same as mine. Wire harness and switches laid out same. Come with the electric pto AND, the 48" deck from it and another 54" deck like mine is supposed to have. Thinking even frame is same. The wheels are smaller and the rear-end is shot. This is what I hear about many of those.  OH, and standard muffler. Had a Briggs 23hp V-twin in this one, he used in another brand tractor. BUT, he still wants $200 for what is left. Thinking hard on it, might get, it's only Money! Sold two tractors today, so can buy some more stuff, heh! It's a model YTH-2348. Y must mean yard tractor, where as mine is a GTH or Garden tractor I suppose. Think if I compared parts, maybe can see if same part numbers for harness and some other items.

 

Looked at manuals and part numbers, thanks guys for the leads on looking at those. All in the wording on search I guess! The link was direct also. Seems the hood and dash area same parts, the wire harness same. The frame looks same in pictures, but is slightly diff numbers, but that might just be a bolt hole or cut-out diff or such, or maybe length, but don't think that. Looks like should get.


Edited by glgrumpy, May 18, 2017 - 08:48 PM.


#6 glgrumpy OFFLINE  

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Posted July 04, 2017 - 12:44 PM

Parts rig video.https://youtu.be/JS89jvO-RpA

#7 Natureboy OFFLINE  

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Posted July 05, 2017 - 07:21 PM

Looked at manuals and part numbers, thanks guys for the leads on looking at those. All in the wording on search I guess! The link was direct also. Seems the hood and dash area same parts, the wire harness same. The frame looks same in pictures, but is slightly diff numbers, but that might just be a bolt hole or cut-out diff or such, or maybe length, but don't think that. Looks like should get.

Husqvarna changed frames in 2006, than again for the 2014 models. Might be why the #'s are different.

#8 glgrumpy OFFLINE  

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Posted July 06, 2017 - 06:07 PM

Well, Husky #2 is on the bench/lift now, Simple tractor is off and running around. This thing has some sort of attachment on back, maybe for a bagger?? I took pix of it as I took it off. Some numbers on it in pix, or have list if can't see, I'll check. Was gonna lift off the rear body section, but need ALL the steering wheel, dash, tower off to get it off. SO, it's all coming apart anyway. Had to quit for the day. Here's the attachment.

Is HOP for Husqvarna Outdoor Products?  They based in GA? 

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Edited by glgrumpy, July 06, 2017 - 06:11 PM.


#9 glgrumpy OFFLINE  

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Posted July 11, 2017 - 11:06 PM

Another few hours of tear-down tonight. I got the dash and tower off, then could get rest of bolts for the seat/fender pan in front and lifted it off. The steering shaft drops right out bottom when you take out a clip on topside. The steering gear arc is on big flat plate that unbolts from both sides of frame and drops down. TWO steering links, one goes to each side of that assembly, they don't share common link like most use. Pulled wire harness off frame and tower. Even the front muffler drops off when removing front heat guard and two bolts holding it in front of axle. The Darn big dual pulley, just slid off when I removed the crank end bolt. Weird pulley, has a key shape sort of pressed into it's side, not a real key. Interesting. Dropped right off, no rusted on or sticking problems with this item, glad of that. The engine is now loose, ready to come off. It had for bolt/screw things that must have went up into the aluminum block with no threads in holes and kinda self tapping, just like big sheet metal screw, heh! They are kind wide spaced in front, not sure if match other model holes or what. Really the whole mount plate for that and the steering area is all one big plate and could be removed and maybe bolted into my other chassis, not sure. Gonna pull engine tomorrow and see if holes in my other one match for mounting. I hop so, no drilling or anything would be nice. The block on this thing is pretty big really, look at the pictures. After engine is off, gonna pull the rear and front axles and set all that stuff aside for a swap meet or whatever I guess. These are pretty small wheels, slip on axle, no lug bolts, not sure if much value. Tires are nice on them. FRame and axles might make a neat trailer??

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Edited by glgrumpy, July 11, 2017 - 11:09 PM.


#10 glgrumpy OFFLINE  

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Posted July 12, 2017 - 11:05 PM

Well Husky 2 is now all apart and up in attics in sheds. Engine is now bolted into Husky 2, and have most wiring in the dash too. Have some issues to fix before it will be cranking and running. It's amazing how much of this stuff switches between the models. #1 has gauge hour meter and ammeter that the #2 had a small hour gauge and NO ammeter, so that is diff. #2 also had a manual belt clutch for the mower, other was electric pto when it had one. So some little differences. I'm going to have to take the safety switch from man control and tape in button I think. Not cranking with key now. Still have one little white wire that I don't know what was plugged into, have to check manuals. Being white like other switches, maybe that is the problem? Pictures here. You can see my lift w/out a tractor, using that quite a bit lately. More pix later as I work on it.

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Edited by glgrumpy, July 12, 2017 - 11:07 PM.


#11 glgrumpy OFFLINE  

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Posted July 12, 2017 - 11:09 PM

Here's the axle out of the Husky #2, said not to work, never did for me I know. Not much too it, a hydro motor and an axle running by it, heh! Not sure if one can take apart or not, maybe look later.

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Edited by glgrumpy, July 12, 2017 - 11:12 PM.


#12 glgrumpy OFFLINE  

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Posted July 16, 2017 - 10:14 AM

Got the engine all in and wired up. Couldn't get a crank with key tho. Sat on seat, pushed the manual safety button by hand, pedal down, nothing. Now see on info the pedal needs to stay up! Tried that and pulled back even, no go. SO, looking at safety switch down there, see it does not get pressed by linkage. Not sure what is supposed to press yet, but is not hitting. Pedal don't seem like it is gonna come back much more to reach?? I pushed that switch and all others and weight on seat, and Bingo, engine cranks! So THAT switch is the issue.  I could use two jumper wires there and on manual one to pass, but not sure I want to on the pedal one. Jumpers should work, there is not electric control box on this tractor to mess up. Hard to see in that area, plates on top and bottom side with the tensioners and steering links all mounted in them. Oh, joy!



#13 glgrumpy OFFLINE  

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Posted July 19, 2017 - 06:54 AM

Well, got the drive belt hooked up, bypassed the wiring a bit to start and find trans-axle is a NO GO!  $%^&!  I can get it to turn forward on one side if I don't go all the way with pedal. Other side won't move, but if I hold the moving side, Then it moves on that side. This is on a bench, no wheels. Have not tried with wheels touching ground. Seems reverse was nothing at first, then started to get a little action on one side of it moving. All this tractor's linkages are kinda rusty and have been hitting with oils and PB blaster, see if move better. First time forgot to let free the un-lock wire on back for pushing. Was SO wishing letting that back in was gonna work, but NOT! I have not played with the actual lever that wire pulls to see if diff. The darn hubs are slip on kind, but on inner side is stack of three washers on each side and then some sort of square thing next to the axle housing. All seems real tight and rusted! I'm wondering if binding right there? I have those hubs soaking, don't seem to want to move after pulling outer clip and washers on axle. Key in them too. Seem to be rusted pretty good. Soaking now in PB.  I tried a three arm puller, but just wanted to bend the metal hub. It is not  a cast part. Banged around a bit with plastic and steel hammers, nothing is moving off those axles.



#14 glgrumpy OFFLINE  

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Posted July 19, 2017 - 04:10 PM

Good news! Some anyway. I cut away at washers behind hub one side. That loosened it alot! Bolted wheels up and it moved. Off table, outside running around. Just like on stand not full pedal speed. Only reverse is when I pull back hard on pedal. THEN....found brake acts like go pedal, hmmmm. So, somewhere the linkage isn't right. Must be why safety switch doesn't get hit. Then on hill at road it conned out. Engine quit, like no gas. Pulled it home, pushed on lift. Started right up. Drove off and around, was good. Went to drive on ramp and half way up ramp quit again. Carb float or junk? Had to quit for day. Video of trial, on real steep hill, ha!


#15 Whizdbiz2 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 02, 2017 - 08:16 AM

Looks like you are making good progress. Good luck with it.

 

 I had an LGT 2554, was a good tractor, nice ride and comfortable seating, until the axle broke, sheared off on the inboard side of the key on the right side as you are sitting on the tractor. I never did think much of the transaxle they put on those lower end machines. I would have thought they would put a bigger one on the bigger machines. Once it warmed up it got a little slower in forward and just crawled in reverse. Mine had 600 hrs. on it, the Kohler Courage ran well and started right up. I've since gotten rid of it, a project for someone else to worry about. I could have repaired it, saw an axle replacement kit for $200 but don't have the time to mess with it.

 

Got a JD GT275 I had sitting up and running, just takes a little longer to mow with the 48" deck on the JD vs. the 54" on the Husqvarna. Really like the transaxle on the JD, it's a true garden tractor transmission and never slows down.






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