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Working on the rusty 1960 Page tractor


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#16 classic ONLINE  

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Posted May 23, 2017 - 05:24 PM

This engine will go in the Page once I swap out the crank, engine pulley, and tag from the page engine.

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#17 classic ONLINE  

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Posted May 24, 2017 - 11:27 AM

I went ahead and swapped out the crankshafts. It's the first time I swapped a crankshaft out of a freshly rebuilt engine with 15 minutes of run time on it. I had to change out the small bearing plate shim gasket to get the correct end play, but that was it. I set the timing on the Magnamatic ignition, so it's time to bolt everything else on and move on to the rest of the tractor.

Edited by classic, May 24, 2017 - 12:10 PM.

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#18 classic ONLINE  

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Posted May 24, 2017 - 12:00 PM

On to the transmission.

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Edited by classic, May 24, 2017 - 12:12 PM.

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#19 lrhredjb OFFLINE  

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Posted May 24, 2017 - 12:14 PM

Classic, do you use any kind of engine stand when working on those BS 23's or do you just wrestle them around?


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#20 classic ONLINE  

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Posted May 24, 2017 - 01:17 PM

The engines really aren't heavy until you put the flywheel on. A complete engine isn't all that bad to pick up, but I use a hand truck to move them around. I did use a come along to set the engine in my economy tractor, since it had the hogs head and clutch assembly attached to it. I'll be doing the same with the page when the time comes.

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#21 classic ONLINE  

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Posted May 25, 2017 - 11:17 AM

With the engine situation figured out, I gathered up some more parts for the Page. The seat is badly rusted, but when I saw the seat on the Page at the auction,I knew that I had the same seat at home. I got the seat from the people that sold me a Baird Beaver and a Bolens Huski Gardener a while back. The seat was laying next to the barn, so I'm guessing that it came off of a sulky that was used with the Huski Gardener. I dug through the box of yard sale hardware that I picked up in CT and found the right carriage bolt, nut, and lock washer to mount the seat. The seat will get blasted and painted red like the original on the Page.
I was scrounging parts off of a Gorman-Rupp water pump from the early 60's and it happened to have the exact same throttle as the rusty one on the Page. It's a little beefier that the NOS Briggs throttles that I've used, and it has a metal spring washer instead of a plastic washer like the NOS Briggs throttles. I cleaned the red paint off of it, so it's ready to bolt on with the same type of hardware.
The clutch looks to be the same as a Farmall Cub and it's 6-1/2" diameter. The throw out bearing is the same as an Economy Power King, though. Everything is in great shape, so I'll just disassemble the pressure plate assembly for a good cleaning. I degreased the transmission case and top cover and I'll rebuild it after sandblasting them. Everything in the top cover is in good shape, and there's almost no wear on the shifter button. Most of the gears and shafts are shot in the transmission, along with the bearings. I've got replacement parts for it and it will take a day to clean everything good and assemble it. So far so good!

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Edited by classic, May 25, 2017 - 11:18 AM.

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#22 classic ONLINE  

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Posted May 29, 2017 - 07:30 PM

I got some parts gathering and parts cleaning done. I had to replace all of the gears, shafts, and bearings in the transmission. Everything for the transmission is cleaned, so I can assemble it now. I disassembled the pressure plate and blasted the surface rust off. That can be assembled now, too. The bell housing is in great shape along with the throw out bearing. I'm working on blasting the hogs head, flywheel, and engine pulley next. I disassembled the front axle assembly and the spindles and axles look really good with not much wear at all. Rust bled over the remaining aqua/green paint on the tractor and it showed itself as I started cleaning parts. I thought things would be in rough shape throughout the tractor, but it really isn't bad at all, once cleaned up.

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#23 classic ONLINE  

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Posted May 29, 2017 - 07:35 PM

I started blasting the rear hubs, but it starred to rain. The hubs were originally red, so that's what I'll paint them once cleaned up.

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#24 classic ONLINE  

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Posted May 30, 2017 - 11:02 AM

The new inner axle bushings came in, so I installed one of the bushings to see how things fit. I ordered bushings 1/2" longer and with a thicker and larger diameter flange. I ordered them longer so that I can install a rubber plug in the end to keep the dust out and the oil in. The thicker flange will now keep the bull gear away from the back plate as it should be. When I first bought the tractor, I could move the axle in and out about 1/4", so I knew that I needed to at least install thrust washers to limit the axle travel. I'll be putting a thin thrust washer on both sides of the bull gear when I finally assemble everything.
With the new bushing in place, I installed an axle and the bull gear cover with the outer bushing. Everything lines up fine now and the axle spins freely. I just have to weld up the worn area in the bull gear cover to make it strong again.

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#25 classic ONLINE  

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Posted June 03, 2017 - 07:59 AM

I spent some time working on installing new pinion shaft bushings and filling in the grooves worn in the back plates with weld. I went through some old tooling that I picked up at a yard sale to see if I had something to ream most of the old pinion bushings out with. I needed something to keep things in line so that the new bushing would line up with the carrier. I dug through a box with some countersinks in it. These countersinks have a 1/4" hole in the center, so I could use a 1/4" rod as a pilot. There was a 7/8" and a 1" countersink in the box along with a 1/4" rod. I used the 7/8" countersink backwards in the old bushing as a guide. I slid the 1/4" rod in place, then slid the 1" countersink over the rod and began cutting. It's almost as if these tools were made for this job. The 1" countersink measures 1.001 and the replacement bushing measures 1.002 and this is exactly what I needed. After reaming out most of the old bushing, I installed the pinion shaft to help guide the new bushing as I drove it in place. I put blue loc-tite on the bushing and drove it in place with the pinion gear and a copper hammer. I then slid the pinion axle out and it work like a charm.
The grooves worn in the back plates were pretty deep, so I had to fill them in with three passes with the welder. I ground these areas smooth and installed the pinion shafts, gears, and bull gears with axles. Everything seems to fit fine and spins as it should now. I'm finishing up the welding and grinding on the bull gear covers so that I can test fit everything before blasting and painting. I didn't plan on having to have to repair this much of this rear end assembly, but at least the shafts, gears, and brake bands are in good shape.

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Edited by classic, June 04, 2017 - 03:49 PM.

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#26 classic ONLINE  

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Posted June 04, 2017 - 04:14 PM

With the frame blasted and primed, I can now move on to finishing the repairs on the bull gear covers. Once repaired, I can assemble the rear end and driveshaft assembly. I have the front axle assembly disassembled for blasting and priming, and luckily the front end doesn't need any repairs. By chance, I was browsing craigslist last night and came across a pair of Page wheel weights, and I almost fell out of my chair when I seen them! I contacted the seller and they dropped them off at my place today. The people stopped by with their two sons and we talked for quite a while. They have a great interest in all sorts of antique things, and figured that someone would be interested in the weights when they came across them. They were interested in the history of my old garden tractors and I told them a bit about the history of the Page tractors. They want to see pics of the Page when it's all restored, so I saved their contact information. Meeting new people has become one of my favorite parts of this hobby, and I'm glad that there are still people out there that appreciate these old machines from the past. It gives me a bit of inspiration during the long process of restoring something that was possibly destined for scrap.

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#27 Cat385B ONLINE  

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Posted June 04, 2017 - 05:58 PM

Those weights are fantastic.
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#28 Froby OFFLINE  

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Posted June 06, 2017 - 07:16 PM

Hi Classic,   Thanks for posting the pictures.  This info is very helpful.     I have two page garden tractors and I've gone through several of the same types of repairs as you.    I just joined the forum and will post some pictures when I become a little more familiar with this site.

 

Thanks again,

Frosty 


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#29 classic ONLINE  

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Posted June 06, 2017 - 08:58 PM

Welcome to the sight and you're welcome. There is a great group of helpful people here on GTT. Any pics and info regarding Page tractors will be great to see.
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#30 classic ONLINE  

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Posted June 12, 2017 - 01:37 PM

I had to replace the fender mounts on the tractor since they were badly pitted up. I picked up a piece of 1/4"x 1" flat stock from Lowes to make the new mounts. A bit of cutting, bending, and welding, and the new mounts are on. I'll use the old mounts to get the correct height of the fenders before clamping the fenders on and drilling the holes. I just have to weld up the worn groove in one of the bull gear housing covers and I can assemble the rear end. The transmission, engine, and clutch assembly are finished, so after the rear end is assembled, the drivetrain can be installed.

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