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#31 Bdgjr215 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 16, 2017 - 10:03 PM

I'm keeping my eye on this build,good luck

#32 AA Hayes OFFLINE  

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Posted October 18, 2017 - 10:33 PM

Looks like you could likely close in the frame rail cut outs to make a full rail beefing up the frame, which would be benificial with the proposed FEL.

#33 Austen ONLINE  

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Posted October 19, 2017 - 11:42 AM

Cool! Keep us posted on the conversion.



#34 nsengineer OFFLINE  

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Posted October 20, 2017 - 10:12 AM

Thank you A A Hayes for the suggestion of beefing up the frame rails where the cutouts are for the twin engine.  I will certainly look into filling in the cutouts.  I think I have steel that thickness ( I have a set of duratrac frame rails) that I will graft in.  I have the front motor mounts cut and made.  I also had a complete engine cradle and frame mounts off a duratrac that I am fabbing fro the motor mounts.  I am using the existing rubber mount locations for the front but I had to cut the rear mounts off the frame and will be relocating them.  Pictures to come.  I appriciate any suggestions along the way being that this is not the average repower for a Large frame.  


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#35 Clevis ONLINE  

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Posted October 20, 2017 - 07:52 PM

Thanks for the thread and the updates. Keep us posted and good luck!

#36 nsengineer OFFLINE  

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Posted October 24, 2017 - 12:25 PM

I had a chance to fab up some motor mounts for the Kohler diesel.  I was able to utilize the original stock location of the front mounts for the HT20D wisconsin.  The rear mounts had to be removed from their stock location .and I used different mounts and location for them.  All metal for the mounts came from a Duratrac 1800 engine cradle and frame mounts I had laying around.  Also the other metal I used was the center transmission cover of the Duratrac that goes between the dash tower and rear fenders.  It is 3/16 flat steel and figured it was easier than driving to local steel supply for some metal.  One slight modification that will have to be done is to move rearward about 1/2-3/4 of an inch  the brake pedal/hydro pedal mount to the right frame rail.  The flywheel was a little too close to it for my comfort.  Pictures will come in a day or so.     I will be able to put a stub shaft on the flywheel for a rear driveshaft mounting location similar to other large frames.  The front pulley I am still working on but will probably have to reduce to a two pulley set up instead of 3.  For my particular plans with the tractor a 2 pulley is more than sufficient.  After the rear mounts are fully welded to the tractor frame I will look into possibly closing up the frame engine cutouts.  I have duratrac frame rails laying around as well.  Pictures will come as I get them.


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#37 LPBolens OFFLINE  

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Posted October 24, 2017 - 11:03 PM

If you are willing to have the PTO shaft running full time when the engine is running, you might consider using a double row roller chain instead of belts, especially if this will be exclusively used as an FEL tractor and the pump is driven by the PTO.


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#38 Husky OFFLINE  

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Posted October 25, 2017 - 11:32 AM

Great post and that engine is a great idea especially where you can still find parts and/or replacement. You should be fine with a 52 hour diesel.


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#39 nsengineer OFFLINE  

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Posted October 25, 2017 - 11:49 PM

Here are a few pics of the engine mounts.  They are not completely finished but give the basic idea.  Next step is locating a radiator and fitting it in place and making mounts to hold it.  I can find many Polaris ranger rads that came with the Kohler diesel.  Just need to find it it will fit under hood or if I need to find another rad.  Time will tell.  

Attached Thumbnails

  • ht3.JPG
  • ht4.JPG
  • ht5.JPG
  • ht6.JPG
  • ht8.JPG

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#40 LPBolens OFFLINE  

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Posted October 30, 2017 - 05:49 PM

When I was thinking about putting a Ford V4 into a spare frame I have, I discovered that there is a Honda Civic radiator that will fit into the Bolens hood without cutting the hood.


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#41 nsengineer OFFLINE  

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Posted November 01, 2017 - 12:30 PM

LPBolens, I did do some research and you are correct.  A Honda Civic and also a Honda DelSol rad will fit but very tightly under the hood.  It is 18 inches high and I comfortably would like to see a max of 17 inches in height.  I could make it work but the problem I ran into is when checking all the sights for a 2 core aluminum Honda radiator they are offering real junk quality and looking at the buyers comments I'm best to go the route of Polaris Ranger radiator.  It not only is skinny enough to fit in between the hood is is also not real tall.  It came with the Diesel engine I have so I also know it is sufficient to cool it.  I did about 4 hours of reasearch last night trying to find different car rads.  A mini cooper has a couple versions as well as a Geo Metro but plumming is not as easy.  This Polaris rad has the necks in the right spot and also the correct diameter outlets.  When It arrives I will keep updating.  Thanks again for the suggestions.  


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#42 LPBolens OFFLINE  

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Posted November 01, 2017 - 10:06 PM

If I get back to the V4 project, I will be calling on you!


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#43 nsengineer OFFLINE  

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Posted December 29, 2017 - 07:55 PM

Its been a while since I have commented on my HT20D project.  Actually have not had much time in the last month and a half to do anything to it.  Been ordering up the needed parts before the fab work could be done.  I had purchased a  Polaris Diesel radiator for it and the person selling gave some incorrect dimensions that I asked them for.  They did not include the neck and rad cap which interfered with the hood.  Its width was not exactly as i wanted either.  After some more research I went with the Honda Civic radiator that LP Bolens suggested.  It fit like it was designed to be there.I wish I would have listened to you in the first place.  Would have saved a lot of time and grief!!  A lot more reasonable in price as well.  New one straight from Rock Auto.  I had to change the fuel tank as the HT20D tank was too tall to go in the way I want it to.  I found a perfect tank that is almost 3 gallons out of a Murray tractor that is much lower in height but wider.  Instead of the tank and battery side by side like a normal HT my battery will be down low and the tank above it.  Just waiting on the electric cooling fan to arrive an then the fab work will begin.  As work begins I will take lots of pictures to share.  I keep finding parts off the Duratrac I parted out that will work perfectly on the HT.  Will update soon!!!!


Edited by nsengineer, December 29, 2017 - 07:57 PM.

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#44 nsengineer OFFLINE  

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Posted February 25, 2018 - 06:48 PM

Well it has been the end of December since I commented on my HT20d/HT24d build.  All of the frame and steering parts have been sandblasted and primed, new bearings and bushings as needed have been ordered.  I finally got around to some frame fabbing.  I cut off the two uprights on the front of the frame that the battery/fuel tank bracket slid over.  I added two mounts that the radiator will sit into.  Also I added a piece of 3/16 inch steel to the engine cutouts on the frame for rigidity being that the diesel does not need to protrude out from them.  I used the Duratrac front engine plate as a base to 1, give a mounting place for the battery tray and 2 to extend the frame by about 3 inches and provide a place to mount the hood.  I do not have pictures of this part yet but will post when I do.  Attached are some of the pictures I have of the frame with modifications.  More will come as I progress on them.

Attached Thumbnails

  • bolens ht8.jpg
  • bolens ht10.jpg
  • ht13.jpg
  • ht14.jpg
  • ht15.jpg

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#45 blackjackjakexxix ONLINE  

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Posted February 25, 2018 - 09:17 PM

Thanks for the update
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