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Sealing a cork float ?


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#1 Alc OFFLINE  

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Posted May 16, 2017 - 05:35 AM

I was so happy a week or so ago , after cleaning the carb from the Standard Walsh that was sitting since last fall with what I thought at the time was dirt holding the needle open and gas would drip , flooding the engine.  There was a lot of dirt in the bowel  so a good cleaning put it together  it started right up , quick test around the then parked . Last night I wanted to really give it a good test by cultivating the garden . Right away it seemed to be running rich , didn't get far and flooded out , pulled the plug and cleaned , started up but soon flooded and gas dripping again . Now I'm thinking that the float is absorbing gas , I've read that model airplane " dope" can be used . I'm not sure if it's available anymore though if there isn't a shelf life I might have some left over from a plane I built years ago . Maybe anyone has used something   that they could recommend ? Thanks Al



#2 DougT ONLINE  

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Posted May 16, 2017 - 06:41 AM

Al, I've used tank sealer to seal floats before but it would be kind of expensive to buy a can for one float. Do you use any redkote at work? That would probably work since they use it to line tanks. I've never tried model glue and don't know if the new stuff would be compatible with gas and ethanol. Originally they used some type of varnish. Not sure if a good marine spar varnish would hold up to gas after dry or not. Just remember that whatever you use is going to change the weight of the float. Did you try turning the carb upside down and blowing in the inlet to see if the seat leaked? I've had to use valve lapping compound to clean them up before.


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#3 John Arsenault ONLINE  

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Posted May 16, 2017 - 06:54 AM

Spar varnish will NOT hold up to gasoline for a long term. I am a wood worker and work with it all the time, 


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#4 Alc OFFLINE  

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Posted May 16, 2017 - 07:46 AM

Doug , I'm going to have to remove the float to verify the issue , won't be for a week because I'll be away .  



#5 propane1 ONLINE  

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Posted May 16, 2017 - 08:38 AM

I have used Seal All glue on floats before and I have repair a aluminum Briggs block that was leaking oil thru the aluminum.

Noel

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Edited by propane1, May 16, 2017 - 08:43 AM.

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#6 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted May 16, 2017 - 10:32 AM

Your right about the the dope. Here's more info.

https://brodak.com/n...te_and_butyrate


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#7 Alc OFFLINE  

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Posted June 28, 2017 - 05:34 AM

This job has been put off long enough . I picked up the Seal All  , any pointers on resealing the float ? I was thinking it should air dry a day and 1 or 2 coats ? Will there be much difference in the float setting because of Seal All ?



#8 DougT ONLINE  

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Posted June 28, 2017 - 10:23 AM

I would think the weight would change some. To me, the seal-all seems heavier than some of the other products. Maybe weigh the float before and after to get an idea of the difference or just experiment with the setting after it's done.


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#9 secondtry OFFLINE  

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Posted June 28, 2017 - 11:22 AM

 I built model air planes many years ago. Found that the dope thinner was excessively expensive. Also found that fingernail polish remover was the same stuff and comparatively dirt cheep. Next discovery,  thinned fingernail polish makes fine fuel proof dope. Later working on cars, many times I used fingernail polish to seal fuel leaks. Small engine cracked brass floats seam to last about 2 years when coated with clear fingernail polish. As for the weight considering the volume of air in the float I have found any weight difference to be insignificant. Don


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#10 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted June 28, 2017 - 03:00 PM

I found the Seal-All to be not up to it's advertised claims!



#11 Alc OFFLINE  

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Posted June 29, 2017 - 05:50 AM

I hope the Seal-All works . I remember there's a plug into the bowel , I wonder if it's there to set the float fuel level ? I seem to remember that on a few Holley carbs I had that there were plugs to remove to check fuel level on them .


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#12 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted June 29, 2017 - 08:53 AM

We used that plug to drain water out of the float bowl or to check fuel flow to the carb. Is the plug in the bottom like ours was?



#13 Alc OFFLINE  

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Posted June 29, 2017 - 10:40 AM

I'm pretty sure it was on the side .


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#14 Alc OFFLINE  

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Posted June 30, 2017 - 05:40 AM

Yes Chris the plug is on the side . I removed the carb and took off the top section . The pin holding the float seems pretty tight and not wanting to chance breaking the little ears off the casting I sealed the float with it still attached .  I took a picture with my iPhone but I can't figure out how to post from it


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#15 Alc OFFLINE  

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Posted July 06, 2017 - 05:46 AM

After letting the Seal-All dry a few days I put the carb back on , I pulled the little plug out to see if any gas would come out  but it didn't . After starting it still seemed to be running rich and spitting fuel but this time just out of the front of the carb , The way the engine was tilted because the cultivator gauge wheels where lower for transport I raised them so the engine sat level and seems to be running better . I've never had any issues with any other of my walk behinds with the engines tilted much more then this one , though thinking.. the plug I pulled out would have been on the higher side of the carb the way the tractor   ( tilted )  was first checked  . I'll have to remove it now to see if gas trickles out


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