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Finally found hydraulics for my Power King.


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#1 classic ONLINE  

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Posted May 01, 2017 - 01:22 PM

I've been keeping my eyes open for a hydraulic lift set up for Power King. The set ups seem to be selling for around 300 complete, so I've been looking for a cheap parts tractor to get the hydraulics from. I found a beat up PK in CT for 500 with hydraulics. I gave the guy a call and he said that it needed a starter and some work since it's been sitting. He also said that the price was negotiable, so my friend and I took a road trip. First off, the engine was locked right up. We put a ratchet on the electric PTO clutch bolt and it still wouldn't budge. We took the head off of the engine and the cylinder looked worn, but the piston rocked in the bore. I saw a mouse nest in the blower housing, so we figured that it might be holding up the flywheel. Next, the wiring was a disaster. An extension cord was used for part of the harnass, so that would all have to be replaced along with all of the switches. At least the choke and throttle still worked. Anyway, he said it was a project tractor and I could haul it home for 350. That sounded fine with me, so we loaded up.
After offloading it, I pulled the hood, grill and blower housing off. After cleaning out the mouse nest, I was able to get the engine to turn over by hand. I cleaned the carbon off of the piston, block, and head and torqued the head back down. I removed the extension cord wiring harnass, changed the engine oil, spark plug, plug wire, and cleaned the points. The fuel tank looked pretty clean, so I ran a little gas through the fuel line and it flowed fine. I rigged up a battery with a hot wire to the coil and a hot wire to the starter. I had a spare starter from a parts John Deere 110, so I took it apart, cleaned it, and it worked fine on the bench. After installing it on the PK, I touched the hot wire to the battery and the engine cranked over. I connected the hot lead to the coil, pulled the choke, cranked it over, and it fired up. I let it run for a bit, but the remnants of the critters that called the engine home, really stunk! Finally, that all burned off and I took the tractor for a short ride. All gears work, but the transmission bearings are a bit noisy. The clutch works fine and so does the hydraulic lift.
After parking the tractor, I went to drain the transmission and noticed that the cluster gear shaft had backed out of the transmission case some time in the past. When I get some time, I plan on putting bearings in the transmission, and I'll be rebuilding the old Kohler. The tractor came with most of the 3 point hitch, and the snow plow frame. I might as well just keep this tractor together, rather than remove the hydraulics for the other PK. With an overhaul and some paint, it will make a decent PK.

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Edited by classic, May 01, 2017 - 01:43 PM.

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#2 classic ONLINE  

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Posted May 01, 2017 - 01:27 PM

Here's a short video of it running and a pic of the cluster gear shaft working it's way out of the transmission.https://m.youtube.co...h?v=GCnXDEMd1Cs

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Edited by classic, May 01, 2017 - 01:33 PM.

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#3 Oldford OFFLINE  

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Posted May 01, 2017 - 03:52 PM

That's a cool video.  How did you get the engine freed up?

 

if it's just smokin i've had good luck with some automobile "engine restore" poured in the crankcase, really cut down on the oil burning if it's just rings.  might save you a engine teardown, give ya more time to look into the trans...


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#4 classic ONLINE  

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Posted May 01, 2017 - 04:28 PM

This tractor sat for quite some time, Oldford. The debris was packed in between the flywheel and the block pretty good. After scraping it all out of there, I was able to free up the flywheel and get it to turn. The cylinder and piston show a lot of wear. The gap between the piston and cylinder opens up quite a bit as the piston travels down the cylinder. I can see the top ring gap and it's well over 1/8th inch. It's standard bore right now, so I'm hoping to be able to get the taper and scoring out of the cylinder at .020 over. I need to check the crank and rod, too. Both will most likely be way out of spec, also. If the balance gears are still in the engine, those will be coming out and not going back in. I plan on making this a reliable plow tractor for the winter, and I'd hate to grenade this engine by not rebuilding it.
The transmissions usually just need bearings and the shifter button wear repaired. I don't know how that cluster gear shaft worked it's way out, bending the retaining plate in the process. If the pin would have walked out any further, it would have made a mess of the transmission.
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#5 MNGB OFFLINE  

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Posted May 01, 2017 - 06:49 PM

Hi classic that was a good deal, you are really getting a collection of PK's, I agree the best for the engine is to take it down completely and do a complete rebuild then it will be go for a long long time,  I'm thinking your just going to have to buy 3 point assy as it doesn't seem to be working out buying parts tractors :dancingbanana: :smilewink: . The same thing with my 49 transmission shaft it was backed out about the same amount when I got the tractor, it really took some cleaning and polishing to get the shaft to go back in where it belonged  but it finally came around. I was wondering on mine if they had replaced the bushing at one time and couldn't get the shaft all the way back in and gave up and bent the retainer lock to fit. Its really amazing what one finds when it comes to wiring on these old tractors, I've had similar wiring messes and like your doing the best thing is to remove it all and start over with new wires, the good thing is the wiring systems on these tractor is simple and easy to do. I'll be watching you progress reports I like it.

 

 


Edited by MNGB, May 01, 2017 - 06:51 PM.

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#6 Austen ONLINE  

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Posted May 01, 2017 - 08:00 PM

Nice! Hydraulics is a big improvement over the manual lift setup. :thumbs:


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#7 classic ONLINE  

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Posted May 01, 2017 - 08:07 PM

This PK is not too bad so far GB. Like you said, the wiring is pretty simple on these tractors, so once I get the needed switches, I'll just run all new wiring. I've seen a few schematics in manuals, so that should make it a breeze. These machines get all sorts of funky repairs done to them as they age. My hood is banged up pretty good and the body tin has some rust through where the battery sits. It will take some time to fix all that, but I may just look for replacements in better shape.
The steering box feels good, but the front end parts could really use a cleaning and fresh grease. I'll be popping the brake hubs off and removing the bull gears to flush things out and look for any problems. It looks like I'll have to make another set of bull gear cover gaskets. That is strange that that cluster gear shaft was sticking out on your '49, too. It wasn't a problem driving the cluster gear shaft and reverse idler shaft back in on the two T92 transmissions that I rebuilt. I do toss the shafts in the freezer before driving them in, though.
Well the price was right on this one, but you know how it goes once you start rebuilding , replacing, and repairing things. I'll be using Kohler parts for the engine rebuild and that's gonna hurt, HA! I'm going to have to hunt down some deals and steer clear of these "parts tractors"
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#8 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted May 03, 2017 - 05:23 AM

I was looking at an old trans last night because I couldn't remember about how those shafts stay in place . You said the tab was bent , do you think something rusted up inside to put more stress in one direction ?  Sure makes me want to check that little bolt and tab when doing oil changes .


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#9 MNGB OFFLINE  

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Posted May 03, 2017 - 12:06 PM

Hi Alc, with my transmission I sure that the bushing was replaced and it wasn't quite aligned or needed a little reaming but instead the shaft was just inserted as far as it would go and the gears would spin freely then the lock tab was bented right to where it was in good contact with the shaft, if the shaft had backed out on its own and bent the tab it would have bent at or very near the bolt, and I can see no way or reason the shaft would come out on its own.


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#10 classic ONLINE  

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Posted May 03, 2017 - 01:04 PM

You were right GB. I took the transmission out and disassembled it yesterday. Someone never drove the cluster gear pin in all of the way at some point in the tractors past. The front bronze bushing in the cluster gear got damaged when they installed it. The bushing must not have been driven in all of the way into the cluster gear and the bushing got bent inward as they forced it in place. This would have made it difficult to drive the pin all of the way in. We'll there is some water damage to some of the parts in the transmission. The roller bearings between the input shaft and main shaft are badly pitted along with the surfaces on the shafts where these rollers ride. These rollers and shafts are shot, so I won't be using them. The low/reverse slider gear is worn and the teeth on the cluster gear are heavily pitted in places. I went through my spare parts and found all of the needed parts to rebuild this transmission. Luckily, I have good shafts and those 13 roller bearings on hand. I ordered the new bearings for the main shaft and input shaft. I ordered sealed bearings, but I'll remove the inner shield from each bearing before installing them. The top cover assembly looks good and just needs a good cleaning. I'll weld up the wear spots which aren't that bad on the shifter button.
The clutch disc is hammered and missing some sections of the friction material, so that will get replaced with a good one that I have . The throw out bearing has a little slop in it, but I have a good replacement for it. The pressure plate is in great shape, but I'll weld up and grind down the wear spots on the fingers before installing it. The driveshaft and couplings are in super nice shape, so no need to replace any of that. All in all, it will cost me 32.00 in bearings to get the rebuilt transmission back in place. Below, you can see the pitted up shafts and rollers next to the good replacements that I have.

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Edited by classic, May 03, 2017 - 01:07 PM.

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#11 classic ONLINE  

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Posted May 03, 2017 - 01:17 PM

Just have to clean everything up for reassembly, but here's the parts I'll be using for the transmission rebuild. I took the diff cover off fearing that water got in, but it wasn't the case. The diff and bearings are in real nice shape, and oil came out of the drop boxes without any water, thank God! I'll still pull the drop box cover assemblies off to flush them out. I also want to make sure that there are no problems with anything. Shortly I'll pull the piston out of the engine to measure the bore and crankshaft. I need to see what oversize piston will be needed before I order a new one. If the crank journal is worn out of spec, I have a nice standard spec K321 crank to use,so I'll just order a standard rod.

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Edited by classic, May 03, 2017 - 01:18 PM.

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#12 classic ONLINE  

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Posted May 05, 2017 - 11:22 AM

Well, this Kohler won't be getting rebuilt. This is by far the most worn bore that I've come across. It measures standard at the very top and worn .045 oversize in the worst spot. The scoring is pretty deep in a couple of areas, too. I haven't seen a .060 over piston listed for a k321 anywhere, HA! The balance weights are very loose on their bearings, and the rod to crank journal clearance is .013. I can't believe that this engine stayed together. At some point it had a Stens standard piston and rod installed in it and they held up with all of that clearance between the crank and rod. I guess that says something for the durability of the Stens parts.
After discovering the shot block and crank, I called a guy that I bought a couple of garden tractors and engines from. He had a parts PK and a bunch of other parts kicking around. He still has the parts PK, it's mostly complete, and has a good running K321 in it. He also has a couple of spare K321 PK engines that he doesn't need. I'll be heading to his place this weekend to pick up the parts tractor and engines so that I'll have some spares and engines to work with. I'll save my worn block since it can get sleeved and bored back to standard if needed. Man, you never know what you're going to find until you start tearing into these old tractors. Some can be very worn, and some can be in great condition. It's always a gamble I guess.

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Edited by classic, May 05, 2017 - 12:04 PM.

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#13 classic ONLINE  

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Posted May 06, 2017 - 07:00 PM

Well, I had a good day of parts pickn' today. I went to a friends place to look at a '76 Economy tractor, but it turned out to be the Jim Dandy size with a 12hp Kohler, so that wasn't going to help me out. He did have a bunch of other parts that I could use for my 76' Power King and other PK projects. Luckily he had a K321 on the floor of his shop, but it had low compression and was missing the most of the tin and the carburetor. That was alright, since I have those parts, but mainly need a good block and crank to work with. That was the main reason that I needed to go see him anyway. I took a gamble and bought the engine as is for 50 bucks. He had better body tin than the tin on my tractor, so I got those, too. He also had a three point hitch that needs a little tweaking, but it's all there, and a pair of rear wheel weights. Got four nice 16" rims (tires are shot) and a nice pair of 7-24 Good Year tires with very good condition rims. He had a nice Briggs 23 shroud and oil bath air cleaner, along with a PK flywheel for a Briggs with the electric start pulley. I'll use that flywheel on my 1960 PK project and install a starter generator on it. He also had a box of old syle headlight parts, a near new set of 16" tire chains, and a couple of the early PK steering columns. I'm always looking for parts for those darn columns and never seem to be able to locate any.
I pulled the head and pan off of the K321 and removed the piston. The bore looked decent, but I could see a wear ridge at the bottom and top of the cylinder. I checked it with a dial bore gauge and it is worn .0065 oversize at the most worn section of the bore. There is no deep scoring, so I should be able to get away with a .010 overbore. The crank journal measures .002 out of round, so that will need to be turned down to .010 undersize. The low compression in this engine was due to a sticky exhaust valve.At least it's rebuildable, unlike my original engine.
It will take some time to straighten out the hood, but at least it's not all crinkled in the front like my original hood. There's a bit of rust and pitting on the body tin where the battery sat, but it's not that bad at all. He did give me a decent set of rear fenders for 5 bucks at the end of my junk shopping spree, lol! We had a lot of fun wheeling and dealing and joking about prices, what the stuff is really worth, etc., etc., etc. Now it's up to me to make the junk look all pretty again, so the work begins. It seems like it starts raining every 15 minutes, even when the sun is out. It's been kind of aggravating, but tomorrow is supposed to be better. All in all it was a good day. Had some good conversation during the ride there and back with my neighbor, and got some needed parts from a friend that I met two years ago and haven't seen since.

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#14 MNGB OFFLINE  

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Posted May 06, 2017 - 08:13 PM

Hi classic you did have a good day looks like you should be able to get both the PK's up and going, that box of those Du Ray lights has to worth a couple of dollars, steering shafts etc with steering wheels not bad.


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#15 classic ONLINE  

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Posted May 06, 2017 - 08:28 PM

Thanks GB. I can make a nice complete pair of lights out of the box of parts ,and they will go on the 1960 PK since it will have electric start and a battery now. I need to find out who can turn down the K321 crank for me, since I don't know of anyone doing small engine machine work around here anymore. Lots of work (fun) ahead of me here!
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