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Jim Dandy starter problem


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#16 sauerssays OFFLINE  

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Posted April 27, 2017 - 09:00 PM

Alc just let me know.Thanks
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#17 classic ONLINE  

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Posted April 27, 2017 - 09:44 PM

You're welcome, John. I'm glad that we could help you out with this. I just thumbed through the electric start option paperwork that I have for these tractors. It looks like you will be all set with that pulley from Alc. Pick up one of the link belts from ebay. I'm using one on my PK and it works well. Servicing the starter generator is also a good idea. I cleaned the commutator, changed the bearings and brushes, and cleaned everything with Lectra-Motive electric motor spray cleaner. I've been using my PK a lot since rebuilding the tractor, and I haven't had a single problem yet. If there are mice in your area, it would be best to install 1/4" wire mesh behind the blower housing to keep the critters out. Since I installed the mesh, I haven't had any mice issues. They like to make a nest above the flywheel and eat the insulation off of your wires. I won't put a Briggs together without this mesh in place.

#18 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted April 28, 2017 - 05:16 AM

I'll send you a pm



#19 sauerssays OFFLINE  

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Posted April 28, 2017 - 06:22 AM

Thanks Classic and Alc

#20 sauerssays OFFLINE  

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Posted April 29, 2017 - 05:12 PM

Just an update for any who is seeking knowledge as I. After spliting engine from trans I removed clutch cover (the one with clutch pedal ) I then had to remove what Id call bellhousing? But it couldn't be removed fully with out also removing "clutch flywheel " I pulled 2 set screws from pulley area and soaked it with wd 40.
It wouldnt budge .I didnt want to spend $100 for porta power as I have seen posted.I read someone had put 2 log splitting wedges up from the bottom and let them sit.Next I put 2 others on each side going down (to make a square) I then tapped side by side on top of wedges until pulley moved.I had read this on a tractor forum (sorry I didnt keep it to give proper credit for idea) When I ran out of room I used 2 bolts with nuts and cranked nuts until pulley moved.It took a couple different sizes until pulley came free.Id like to thank Russ from the yahoo site for posting this method ! Both methods worked like a charm and for the cost of a few bolts and nuts..It off !
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#21 sauerssays OFFLINE  

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Posted April 30, 2017 - 05:30 PM

Classic do you have the electric start option paperwork ? Does it show installation or is it the same 12 volt starting msnual on forum? Just want to be sure pulley is in proper direction .Thanks

#22 classic ONLINE  

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Posted April 30, 2017 - 09:58 PM

I do have the electric start paperwork and it's dated January 2, 1959. Here is a side view of the engine, and it looks like there is a raised area at the back side of the sheave. Sorry about the late reply, took a road trip to pick up a PK today. I've been after hydraulics and a 3 point hitch for a while.

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#23 sauerssays OFFLINE  

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Posted May 01, 2017 - 05:40 AM

Nice ! Looks like a good find. Yes the pulley looks to have a raised area looks like that goes to engine. Thanks agaun

#24 classic ONLINE  

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Posted May 01, 2017 - 06:59 AM

Thanks. I wasn't planning on bringing another PK home, but for 350 this one was worth getting. The hydraulic lift assembly would have cost me close to that alone. This PK has been sitting for a while, so it will need a good going over. I pulled the head and it's still at std. bore, but the cylinder is worn. I'll be rebuilding this Kohler and the transmission will get new bearings while the engine is out. It's really another project tractor that I'll tear down completely at some point.
It's not a great pic of that sheave in the drawing, but yes, the set screws are on the engine side of the sheave. That's how I installed mine and everything lines up perfectly.

#25 sauerssays OFFLINE  

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Posted May 01, 2017 - 09:29 AM

Classic , Thanks again. For that price you cant go wrong.Nothing wrong with another project .

#26 sauerssays OFFLINE  

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Posted May 01, 2017 - 07:10 PM

Classic sorry to bug you.Your pulley does not look like it was machined with keyway correct ? The one I have looks like it wilk work except it has a keyway machined into it..my clutch sheave does not.Does your manual show any tupe of key ? Thanks

#27 classic ONLINE  

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Posted May 01, 2017 - 09:14 PM

No worries, you're not bugging me at all. Mine had no key way and my flywheel had no key way either. Just use new set screws so that you get a good bite. I've been starting my PK with this set up quite a bit since last fall and everything has stayed nice and tight. I was going to use loc-tite on the set screws, but it doesn't seem necessary. I don't remember seeing a key in the paperwork for these.

#28 sauerssays OFFLINE  

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Posted May 01, 2017 - 10:30 PM

Thanks Classic!




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