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running lean on a 1256


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#1 hiltu OFFLINE  

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Posted April 26, 2017 - 09:38 AM

rebuilt engine and carb... seems like maybe im running lean by indications of the spark plug. My limited understanding would be to open up on the main needle jet valve adjustment. I've played with the adjustment alot without much success. From tubeframes, the rebuild carb came back with about 3 turns open on main jet, and it was recommended that it be 1.5 turns open. Ive done both. Im not quite sure how to get this to run richer..... Any advice?


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#2 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted April 26, 2017 - 09:48 AM

if your getting no response at all from the main jet of the carb you either have other engine issues or a blockage/ air leak in the carb somewhere. 

When you say carb rebuilt , did they replace the throttle shaft and or seals? , new main jet ? , check for warping on the two halves?

 

 

3 Turns out on the main jet should make any tractor run rich where black smoke comes out the exhaust.


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#3 hiltu OFFLINE  

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Posted April 26, 2017 - 09:51 AM

from the website: 

During this process, the carburetor will receive the following new parts:

• Fuel Valve & Seat

• Throttle Shaft Bushings, Seals & Retainers

• Idle Adjusting Screw

• Float Axle

• Choke Shaft Bushing and Retainer

• Fuel Bowl to Throttle Body Gasket

• Flange Gasket


Edited by hiltu, April 26, 2017 - 09:56 AM.

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#4 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted April 26, 2017 - 09:53 AM

Got a pic of the carb?


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#5 hiltu OFFLINE  

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Posted April 26, 2017 - 10:05 AM

Additionally, today I got it started easily. After a warmup I engaged the drive and allowed it to warm up. After that I disengaged the drive and engaged the PTO. With the mower deck spinning all was going well, than i engaged the drive again and it started well. Within a minute, being stationary the whole time with constant throttle, it slowly died. I tried restarting(pull start twice) with no success.

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Edited by hiltu, April 26, 2017 - 10:06 AM.

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#6 chieffan OFFLINE  

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Posted April 26, 2017 - 10:22 AM

I agree with Dr. Bolens.  Try changing out the carb with one off a good running engine.  If it runs good with the replaced carb your know the issue is in the carb.  If not, possibly has engine issues.  First place I would look is the valve lash.


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#7 boyscout862 ONLINE  

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Posted April 26, 2017 - 10:37 AM

You need to do troubleshooting right after it has died. Check for spark and fuel to the carb. Sometimes there is a constriction or blockage in the fuel line or filter. Sometimes the spark dies when the engine gets hot. The engine manual should have a good troubleshooting guide in it. If not the B&S Repairman's Manual is excellant. Both are in our Manuals Section. Good Luck, Rick


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#8 hiltu OFFLINE  

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Posted April 27, 2017 - 10:02 AM

Just checked valve lash. Intake is 0.009 (should be 0.006) and exhaust is 0.018 (should be 0.015). Is that enough to be the culprit? Also, not quite sure how to adjust these either.



#9 hiltu OFFLINE  

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Posted April 29, 2017 - 12:52 AM

Anybody have any advice regarding my valve lash?



#10 secondtry ONLINE  

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Posted April 29, 2017 - 01:48 AM

   Searched the web and found a valve lash of 12 and 15. Yours should be close enough to run. I don"t think valve lash is the problem you are fighting. I am not sure I understand what you are saying. Not being familiar with the tractor you are dealing with I am not sure what you mean when you say engaged the drive. Did the tractor function normally before you rebuilt the engine? What do you mean when you say,"than I engaged the drive again and it started well"? I generally disengage every thing before starting any engine. When you say "with constant throttle" do you mean the throttle control or is the governor not responding? While it is slowly dying is it firing. Is the throttle butterfly full open? Don     



#11 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted April 29, 2017 - 07:27 AM

Wisconsin TRA12D Valve tappet clearances are :

 

IN .006

 

EX  .015

 

the best way to check clearance is with one valve raised up so you know the other is fully closed.

Usually the clearances are too tight and you can grind the stem but yours are too much , did someone grind them??

 

Valves usually act up after the engine heats up to temperature it sounds like you are having issues before the motor even heats up.

Do you have a spark checker you can put on there to see how spark looks when it starts to die?

 

If you want send me your carb and I'll throw it on a motor here to rule that out at least for you.



#12 BRIAN EK7&10 ONLINE  

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Posted April 29, 2017 - 09:08 AM

are those pictures before or after the rebuild? it looks kind of crusty to have just been


"professionally" rebuilt.

#13 hiltu OFFLINE  

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Posted May 01, 2017 - 12:19 PM

Pics are after rebuild. The guy painted it brown and than i cheaply painted it an almond white color. Ive been tinkering with it alot and gas has been getting on it which is causes the paint to peel. Engine ran before rebuild but my engine builder told me it was also running lean before as he noticed the spark plug when i brought it in. I do not have a spark plug tester myself, but I am interested in mailing my carb to you(Bolens 1000) to see what you get.

 

My latest update, i took the main jet needle valve apart and back together. On the first pull it let out blackish smoke through the exhaust and carb... im assuming that means its rich. The spark plug was dark and slightly wet. I could not get it to light again after that.

 

Second try, when i am talking about engaging the drive, i am allowing the idler pulley to put tension on the belt to spin the hydro transmission. Since its a load on the engine, i would disengage it so i would divert all power to the mower deck. The butterfly (choke) valve was full open. Ive ran it both with the filter on and off.

 

 

I ran it for a bit and it appeared to get really hot. The wires from the stator at the front that run to the coil have some melted insulation that im working through as well.



#14 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted May 03, 2017 - 05:59 PM

Got your carb today and installed it on my TRA10D engine just as you sent it and she fired right up on the first pull, ran the tractor for a few minutes idling up and down with no apparent issues , then I shut if off and installed the mower deck to put a load on the motor to see if there was any effect, and mowed for an hour today with no issues.

I believe your issues lie in the ignition system or valves of the motor, but now you can narrow the carb from your list of problems.

Only issues I seen were the main jet is pretty loose / worn and can move around with the vibration of the engine but that is not causing what you are describing.

 

Since you got the carb off already I'd look at your valve clearances.

 

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#15 hiltu OFFLINE  

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Posted May 03, 2017 - 06:22 PM

valve clearances? is that different than the valve lash i already measured? I am not strong in this field of engines...






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