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Bolens 42" Tube Frame Spindle Bearing Replacement


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#16 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted April 26, 2017 - 05:35 PM

The cotter key that holds the water inlet in the deck was badly rusted so I replaced it with a new one.  I also found a rust hole in the rear of the deck so I cleaned the metal up and welded it in with the mig welder.  Once it was welded I sanded the weld down and gave it a quick splash of the green paint to slow down the rust.  Years ago when I overhauled the deck I had installed sleeves on the bolts and new bronze bushings in the wheels to replace the worn out bearings that were there.  Now the new bushings have become worn after about 14 mowing seasons (I think they should have lasted at least 20) so since there is still lots of bushing left I drilled holes and installed grease fitting in the wheels - drilled the holes right through the bushing.  I will probably make new sleeves with a larger O.D. to match the worn I.D.'s of the bushings and then I will now be able to grease them. They should last a while longer and hopefully being able to grease them will stop the annoying squeaking sound they used to make sometimes from the bronze bushing turning on the steel sleeve.  

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Cotter Key For Water Inlet Rusted Badly.jpg
  • 2 Rust Hole In Deck.jpg
  • 3 New Cotter Key Installed.jpg
  • 4 Rust Hole Welded In And Sanded.jpg
  • 5 Rust Hole Welded In And Painted Inside View.jpg
  • 6 Quick Splash Of Paint On Weld Outside View.jpg
  • 7 Grease Fitting Installed In Wheel.jpg
  • 8 Hole In Bushing To Let Grease In.jpg
  • 9 Bolt And SLeeve That Bushing Tunrs On.jpg

Edited by 29 Chev, April 27, 2017 - 05:31 PM.

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#17 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted April 27, 2017 - 07:18 PM

Had a sewing job show up today so once I got that done I started back working on the deck again.  Made two new sleeves out of a couple of pieces of pipe - turned the outside down to match the worn bushings.  Then I installed the wheels and grease them - the grease started coming out around the outside of the solid rubber tire but it appeared to also go into the bushing and sleeve area as the wheels turned easier after they were greased.  Installed the tensioner plates and pulleys after checking and lubricating the brass bushings I had made out of a couple of pipe bushings a few years ago to replace the worn out plastic ones.  There is a little bit of wear on the bushings but they should work ok for this year.  Then I used the hook tool to put the end of the tensioner spring over the notched bolt and put the gear box back on and installed the two rear bolts loosely.  This allowed me to lift the gear box enough at the front to slide the cover over the belt pulleys into position.  I then started the bolts in the holes around the cover and once they were all started I tightened them starting at the front centre and working my way to the outer edges and then around the back to finish up at the gear box.  I snugged up the two rear mounting bolts in the gearbox and then used a tapered punch in one of the bottom holes to align the other hole and start a bottom bolt - once it was snugged up I removed the punch and installed the other bottom bolt and snugged it up.  As you can see  in the pictures the right side of the cover is usually tight against the side of the gear box due to the tensioner spring force so I use a pry bar and gently pry the gear box over a little to centre the gearbox in the cover opening and then tighten the bottom and rear bolts - once one of the lower bolts is tight you can remove the pry bar while you tighten the rest.  The thin lock nut that goes on the tensioner pivot bolt that protrudes though the cover has been missing since I got the tractor and deck so I just use a regular 3/8" UNC hex nut in its place.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Grease Coming Out Around Edge Of Wheel.jpg
  • 2 Grease Coming Out Around Edge Of Wheel.jpg
  • 3 Tensioner Arm Plates And Pulleys Installed.jpg
  • 4 Gearbox Bolted up Loosely By Two Rear Bolts.jpg
  • 5 Tensioner Spring Hooked Over Bolt.jpg
  • 6 Tensioner Spring Hooked Over Bolt.jpg
  • 7 Sliding Cover Over Pulleys.jpg
  • 8 Cover Back In Place.jpg
  • 9 Cover Back In Place.jpg
  • 10 Right Side Of Cover Tight Against Gear Box.jpg
  • 11 Large Gap Between Cover And GEar Box At Left Side.jpg
  • 12 Using Pry Bar Gently Against Gear Box And Cover.jpg
  • 13 Bolts Tight - Now has Gap On Right SIde.jpg
  • 14 Still Has Some Gap On Right.jpg
  • 15 Using Regualr Nut On Pivot Bolt.jpg
  • 16 Nut Installed On Pivot Bolt.jpg

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#18 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted April 27, 2017 - 07:30 PM

I checked the oil level and since I did not install a plug in the end of the hose instead of the vent the gear box was low as most of the gear lube leaked out the vent over winter because of the deck being in the upright position.  You may have noticed the ninety degree fitting and grease gun hose installed in the vent hole of the gear box - I tend to run the gear box a little fuller than it should be by leaving the front of the deck a little low and then adding gear oil until it runs out the fill hole.  This would result in the gear oil coming out the vent when things got warmed up so the fitting and hose were added to provide an expansion area - the vent is installed in the top end of the hose and I just wire the hose to the PTO lever bracket.  Once the gear oil was added I tightened the drain plug and double checked to make sure the PTO shaft and blades turned smoothly and freely and then got ready to install the two lift bails.  Since the front holes are slotted I install the front bolts loosely in the bails and then I install and tighten the rear bolts and then tighten up the front bolts. The deck is now ready for a test run to see how well it works and if I notice any difference in noise or power use - still have to get the 1050 out and grease and double check it before I mount the deck on.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Drain Plug On Gear Box And Hose.jpg
  • 3 Ready To Install Lift Bails.jpg
  • 4 Ready To Install Lift Bails.jpg
  • 5 Lift Bails Bolted On.jpg
  • 6 Deck Ready For A Test Run.jpg

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#19 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted April 28, 2017 - 05:57 PM

Got the 1050 dug out, serviced and tried out the mower for about an hour today and it worked great - got about 1/4 of the lawn cut.  I did not notice much difference in power but there is still a bit of a metallic noise when engaged (had that last year as well - like tin rattling on tin) so I may pull the deck back off and remove the belt cover and make sure one of the idler pulleys is not rubbing on the tensioner plates - didn't see any evidence of this when I had it apart and the idler pulley bearings seemed good when I had it apart - time will tell.  


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#20 Bruce Dorsi OFFLINE  

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Posted April 29, 2017 - 05:33 PM

Just curious, what are you using for a vent ?

 

The original vents were open to atmosphere.  ..The stamped metal cap would often get knocked-off.

 

Later gearboxes used a pressure-relief fitting.

 

I agree with slightly over-filling for more lube.


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#21 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted April 29, 2017 - 05:49 PM

Just curious, what are you using for a vent ?

 

The original vents were open to atmosphere.  ..The stamped metal cap would often get knocked-off.

 

Later gearboxes used a pressure-relief fitting.

 

I agree with slightly over-filling for more lube.

The vent is the pressure release style that was originally in the gearbox.



#22 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted April 29, 2017 - 06:07 PM

I removed the deck back off the tractor and removed the belt cover and undid the two tensioner pulleys from the swing plates and found evidence of the outer edge of the pulleys rubbing against the arms a little bit.  I checked the bearings in the pulleys and they were still tight and turned nice but when I turned the pulleys I noticed the pulleys wobble a little bit and probably at PTO speed they probably wobble a bit more.  I put a set of calipers on the outer lips of the pulleys and noticed they were slightly wider at the very outer edge so I measured the pulleys with a micrometer and then I put one in the press and flattened the edge so they were at ninety degrees and this made the pulleys about .025" narrower on the outer width which gave them a little more clearance.  I then did the same maneuver with the second pulley.  I also made two shim washers out of sheet metal and installed one on each pulley to gain a bit more clearance between the two plates and then reassembled them and spun the two pulleys and they appeared to have quite a bit more clearance.  I also had a really good look at the two brass bushings I made a few years ago to replace the worn out plastic ones - they still looked good so I greased them on the inside and put the deck back together.  When I had it back on the tractor I started it up and tried the deck out - the tinny noise appears to be gone now.  I made a short video of engaging the deck and then I cut grass for about half an hour - there was a cool west wind that felt like it was coming off  an iceburg in the lake so I didn't stay at cutting grass too long.  The mower worked great - a few more hours and some more dead limb clean up and I should have the whole lawn cut just in time to make room for the dandelions to grow.   

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Pulley Rubbing Near Outer Edge In One Spot.jpg
  • 2 Other Pulley Rubbing As Well.jpg
  • 3 Outer Flange Squared With Press.jpg
  • 4 Width Of Pulley Before Press.jpg
  • 5 Width Of Pulley After Press.jpg
  • 6 Clearance After With Sheet Metal Shiims Installed.jpg
  • 7 Clearance After With Sheet Metal Shiims Installed.jpg
  • 8 Sheet Metal Shims.jpg
  • 9 Brass Bushing I Machined A Couple Of Years Ago To Replace The Worn Plastic Ones.jpg
  • 10 Brass Bushing I Machined A Couple Of Years Ago To Replace The Worn Plastic Ones.jpg
  • 11 Brass Bushing I Machined A Couple Of Years Ago To Replace The Worn Plastic Ones.jpg
  • 12 Deck Back On.jpg
  • 13 Deck Back On.jpg
  • 14 Deck Back On.jpg
  • 15 Deck Back On.jpg

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