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16hP briggs drive shaft coupler removal question


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#1 Dmac OFFLINE  

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Posted April 17, 2017 - 10:26 PM

Pulled the 16hp on the 73 MW Gilson. Ill be darned if I can figure out how to remove the drive shaft coupler from the end of the crankshaft. No bolts. Is it pressed on?

#2 boyscout862 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 18, 2017 - 06:03 AM

I am not familiar with your tractor but if it attaches to the flywheel, it may be bolted or it may be screwed onto the crankshaft(inplace of the flywheel holding nut). Download the manual from our Manuals Section to see what they say. Good Luck, Rick

#3 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted April 18, 2017 - 06:07 AM

:wave: Welcome to the forum! I just looked in the parts manual, but couldn't figure it out.



#4 karel OFFLINE  

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Posted April 18, 2017 - 06:33 AM

I have the same engine. and I need to do the same thing!
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#5 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted April 18, 2017 - 08:28 AM

It would be nice to see what this looks like.


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#6 SimplyRad ONLINE  

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Posted April 18, 2017 - 11:00 AM

This is a 14 h. The screen isn't on this so you can see the bolts. The bolts in flex plate have to be removed first then the screen, the screws my be hard to remove, then the bolts will be exposed.

 

DSC_0179.JPG


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#7 glgrumpy ONLINE  

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Posted April 18, 2017 - 03:55 PM

Simply Rad,, think your's is type that whole thing WITH the fan on it might be the flywheel nut?? OR, maybe fan comes off, but center still the nut?  Has that odd washer behind it with position notches??  I have at times twisted off those tiny screen screws on engines. They are steel, fan is aluminum, don't like each other.

This type uses just two bolts on the shaft then, Newer types are usually four bolt, going right into the flywheel and has a tight slip-on in center. Being Gilson, may be older type like Rad shows. Like said a parts page from a manual would be nice. Reaching into the tractor to get at this thing is one of hardest chores. Some you might have to lay on back and work from underneath. OR, have to remove battery trays or gas tanks or other items to get room to get into that area.


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#8 SimplyRad ONLINE  

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Posted April 19, 2017 - 08:21 AM

Remove the bolts holding the flex plate and then you can remove the 2 bolts holding the fan to the flywheel. The nut for the flywheel is under the fan. A picture is worth a 1000 words.


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#9 Dmac OFFLINE  

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Posted May 03, 2017 - 04:56 PM

Sorry it has taken so long to get back. FINALLY some good weather. Attached are the pictures of the drive shaft coupler. There arent any bolts holding it to the end of the crank. Could this be the flywheel bolt? I am dumbfounded. Did Gilson have an adapter to torque/screw this drive coupler to the crank? I removed the two long bolts for the flex plate and the four screw for the flywheel screen.

I am guessing it was made around 1973. It has the running boards and a starter/generator. Was there a cutoff for the year when they went to a bolt on starter?

Attached Thumbnails

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#10 Z71 Sierra OFFLINE  

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Posted May 03, 2017 - 05:00 PM

My driveshaft on my MW 16hp broke in two.  Mine was just bolted on. 

 

drive shaft 3.jpg


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#11 glgrumpy ONLINE  

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Posted May 03, 2017 - 06:08 PM

Not sure here, but that pix looks like that coupler is just pushed onto that center shaft there. Maybe a good wire brushing or sanding and lots of oil and try to hold crank still, and carefully try to spin that outer part loose off the shaft? Think is just good machined tolerance fit? Sure with those big holes in it, there isn't some bolts to access from behind, just have to turn in right place or move the screen a bit too see?  I have not seen this exact set-up either before, so just guessing some. Did you ever find a parts page for this system? A blow-up would be nice to see just what is supposed to be seperate. Wonder if a parts book for the engine would show any of couplings?


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#12 glgrumpy ONLINE  

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Posted May 03, 2017 - 06:12 PM

Most briggs I have looked at with that pulley have two bolts holding it to the center assembly. Still think you have two more to go, have to move things around to find? Don't pull/pry on the pulley, they break easy. They DO sometimes slip off that center shaft snugly once loose. Gotta be way to remove to get screen off first before removing the hold-on asssembly for flywheel.


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#13 Z71 Sierra OFFLINE  

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Posted May 03, 2017 - 06:42 PM

On my driveshaft the ends are welded to the coupler. They look factory to me. 


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#14 PGHsteelworker OFFLINE  

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Posted May 03, 2017 - 08:53 PM

If you removed the two, 3/8 x 2 or 2 1/4 inch long, bolts from the engine coupling assembly then it is ready to come off. There is a tight and very rusted fit between the engine coupler and the crank end.  Soak it with blaster then tap it back and forth gently and it will eventually come off. There was two different drive shaft setups. One had rubber discs and one didn't. Here are some parts pics and a pic of the front of the motor.MW Parts (14).JPG MW Parts (15).JPG MW Parts (39).JPG DSCN0762.JPG

 

Mine didn't have rubber discs but yours is ready to come off. You have the bolts out but is most likely rusted on.


Edited by PGHsteelworker, May 03, 2017 - 09:10 PM.

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#15 SimplyRad ONLINE  

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Posted May 04, 2017 - 10:23 AM

Use a puller and put the bolts in the threaded holes that the coupler was bolted into, not the holes that hold the fan onto the flywheel. That would be the small round holes.


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