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#1 Jones OFFLINE  

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Posted June 13, 2011 - 04:29 AM

I have a '67 JD 100H with a Kohler 8hp engine. Has anyone ever used synthetic oil? Does anyone have an opinion on whether it would be a good idea to try it?

#2 MH81 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 13, 2011 - 04:37 AM

A while ago, I asked the saem question and put up a poll. Here are the results.

http://gardentractor...hetic-oil-3590/

#3 hydriv OFFLINE  

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Posted June 13, 2011 - 05:21 AM

I have a '67 JD 100H with a Kohler 8hp engine. Has anyone ever used synthetic oil? Does anyone have an opinion on whether it would be a good idea to try it?


Questions about oil preference are on the same level as questions about choice of religion or choice of political party. All three are very personal decisions and logic doesn't really come into play. You have a Kohler K Series engine. If you go to Kohler's own website and find the manuals for these engines, you will see that Kohler's engineers have not changed their recommendations for oil. They are still calling for 30 weight detergent based oil and a 25 hour MAXIMUM oil change interval. For sure, oils have improved since the K engine was designed 50 plus years ago but that fact hasn't moved Kohler to endorse synthetics. This is not to say that it is wrong to use synthetic oil. Your engine will run a few degrees cooler but since the K engines do not have oil filters, using synthetic oil won't allow you to leave it in the crankcase longer than 25 hours. Synthetic oil gets contaminated just like dino oil does and dumping both out every 25 hours max is the best way to get rid of those contaminants and extend the life of your engine. So, if you want to spend extra money for synthetic oil because it makes you feel good, then you will get no argument from me. I will stick with 30W dino oil and save the money.

OK.... now here's where I get to sorta talk out of the other side of my mouth. If I lived in an area with long, bitterly cold winters and was going to use my Kohler powered GT to plow or blow snow, then a multi-grade synthetic would be my first choice because synthetics have properties that shine under these conditions. The small extra cost of the synthetic is outweighed by the improved engine starting and faster lubrication in sub-zero F conditions. Amsoil makes a synthetic that is specifically for air-cooled engines that called for 30W in summer and IF I went to synthetic in the warm weather, then this would be my choice.

Now... if you use a non-detergent dino oil in your engine right now, then stay with it. You do not want to put a detergent type oil in there and loosen up all that crap that is stuck to the internals of your engine.

#4 MH81 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 13, 2011 - 06:18 AM

Now... if you use a non-detergent dino oil in your engine right now, then stay with it. You do not want to put a detergent type oil in there and loosen up all that crap that is stuck to the internals of your engine.


Used to worry about that on the bigger engines we dealt with, why my brain seized on this is a very good question for someone who specializes in brain disorders.

When you buy a used tractor, engine, etc, and are not inside it to see what is what, you may have an engine that has seen nothing BUT non detergent. In my experience, pressurized oil systems can be severely compromised with broken loose sludge from changing to a detergent oil. On the non-pressurized, I would assume this to be much less of a problem,... assuming you are going to run it for a short time and then do a "flush change" of the oil. Sacrificing a fresh change after a short period is a good way to clean out any wayward goo and, if nothing else, it makes Me feel better about myself.

I have done this on my Craftsman GT 6000 and also the SS12. My GT5000 had seen nothing but detergent from day one, and I knew the PO wouldnt lie to me about it... My Dad.

These are the three I have switched to synthetic blend. I bought enough for the oil change in both synthetic and regular detergent (el-cheapo brand). Ran it for about 20-30 mins with the regular & then changed to blended. The slightly used oil I run thru a milk filter and then use it in my squirt gun oiler. The worst of the two was the GT6000. It came out an odd, almost milky color that I haven't seen since Quaker State stopped being paraffin based. Think I will change it again this summer just to be sure.

On all of my more worn out / lightly used engines, I use SAE 30 ND. I think it helps with smoking issues and lubricates well.

#5 Dieseljon OFFLINE  

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Posted June 13, 2011 - 12:27 PM

Things are getting way over complicated here. In a nut shell, synthetic oil is a much better way to go in a bigger higher rpm engine, but if you have and older 20 to 30 year old engine synthetic may very well attack the gaskets and seals. Sludge in a engine is normally one of two things. lack of service or if had Penzoil used in it. If you buy something used and the engine wasn't kept up I'm sure the whole tractor, car or whatever will show neglect. I've rebuilt a lot of engines from single cylinders up to 6 and 8 cylinder diesels and everything in between. Sludge is not a common thing. neglect or on a rare occasion poor quality oil (penzoil) and if the engine has been cooked are the only sludge problems I've seen. I hear pros and cons about them all. If the oil you've been using hasn't caused any problems stick with it. Most oils are outstanding these days even the store brands are good, but the synthetics will improve engine life and performance and the life of synthetic in a engine is WAY longer than conventional oil in turn off setting the higher price. I'm a firm believer in synthetics, but I don't use it in anything I own anymore. Why? My car has 245.000 miles on it. This was on conventional oil. The engine is still great, but the car is done for. Modern engines run tighter tolerances than they use to. This is why they last longer and with changing the oil as you should they will run for ever. My ole F-150 has 163000 on it and it runs as good and smooth as the day it was new, but the body is GONE. So the engine lasted long enough in my book. If you are running a race engine that sees high rpm or have a pickup that pulls way more of a load than it should, synthetic is a good idea, but for the normal every day engine that really don't see any abuse a good conventional oil will work just fine. One more thing and I'll stop my rant lol. If you have a engine that is using oil and smoking, fix the problem. Changing the oil to cover up that that the engine needs work is like dumping stop leak in the radiator. It'll make it seem fixed for a while, but it's still broke.

#6 MH81 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 13, 2011 - 01:49 PM

On all of my more worn out / lightly used engines, I use SAE 30 ND. I think it helps with smoking issues and lubricates well.


Changing the oil to cover up that that the engine needs work is like dumping stop leak in the radiator. It'll make it seem fixed for a while, but it's still broke.


Oh, I'm not doing it to cover up the fact that it's still broke... I'm doing it to keep the smog factor down and keep from fouling plugs. The tractors I am talking about are playthings... may go to the show... may use it to till once a year... either way, the repair IS on the agenda, but way down the list.

#7 Dieseljon OFFLINE  

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Posted June 13, 2011 - 02:02 PM

Oh, I'm not doing it to cover up the fact that it's still broke... I'm doing it to keep the smog factor down and keep from fouling plugs. The tractors I am talking about are playthings... may go to the show... may use it to till once a year... either way, the repair IS on the agenda, but way down the list.

Sounds like my Homelite. Wow it smokes, but for some reason the plug seems to last. think it may be from blow by gitting into the carb via the vent tube. I've thought about trying to mask the problem with something thick in the crank case, but I kinda like the smell.


smokin.jpg
Now this is a oil burner. I won't tell you who it belongs to, but his initials are Gtractor.




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