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Fuel Tank Repair

brazing up a fuel tank clinton fuel tank repair

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#1 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted April 02, 2017 - 12:34 PM

Since I had decent success on the Bolens LK fuel tank repair, it's time to tackle another one. These are steel tanks. This one is off an old Clinton, thought it might be good for a temporary tank when needed. Has many pin holes on one end, I may just cut that out and lay a new piece of metal in.

I have had a tube of Harris Brand Stay-Silv 15 silver solder stick for years. I found some flux that works well for this. I only have a Mapp Gas torch, it would work better with an oxy/acet outfit. I 'get-R-done' with this, so I'm happy. Here's the tank with issues. I need to find a cap for this. I sent Bolens 1000 a PM about it, but if someone has an idea where I can find this style cap, I'll be happy. The filler neck is just under 1-3/4" OD. The slots where the lock goes in is right at 1-7/16".

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UPDATE: Brian came through. Just ordered a cap for this tank!


Edited by KennyP, April 02, 2017 - 12:41 PM.

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#2 jabelman OFFLINE  

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Posted April 02, 2017 - 03:17 PM

one thing I do now is to soak the tank in vinegar for a week or so, comes out like new
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#3 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted April 02, 2017 - 03:27 PM

one thing I do now is to soak the tank in vinegar for a week or so, comes out like new

White or cider?



#4 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted April 02, 2017 - 03:30 PM

You could just lay a new piece of metal right over top of the area and solder it at the outer edges.  If you get it nice and clean the solder should flow nicely and leaving the original metal there will give the tank more strength  - just my thoughts. 


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#5 jabelman OFFLINE  

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Posted April 02, 2017 - 03:34 PM

White or cider?


I use white cheap stuff
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#6 Gtractor ONLINE  

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Posted April 02, 2017 - 03:44 PM

White vinegar is what I use.  Won't take a week - probably just overnight would be plenty.

Just have to play it by ear.  Course the worse the rust, the longer it takes.

 

I've had "swiss cheese" tanks like that and after their derustification bath,  I smear a thin layer of J B Weld on the outside.  When that is fully cured I coat the inside with tank sealer and its good to go. 


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#7 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted April 02, 2017 - 03:47 PM

This will get a coat of sealer inside! I have too many repair projects for other folks in my shop and no room to work when it's raining!



#8 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted April 03, 2017 - 03:33 PM

Well repairing this is an exercise in futility! Fix one hole and 3 pop up an inch away! I hope that tank sealer gunk works over rust as there is no way to clean it out. If not, this will be flattened and trashed!



#9 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted April 03, 2017 - 04:12 PM

Personally I would cut the whole bottom of the tank out. Then fabricate a new piece 1 inch larger in length and width and solder it in and be done with it. 


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#10 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted April 03, 2017 - 04:29 PM

Ain't just the bottom. I have holes popping up near the top! Seems like the heat is loosening the rust inside and making more pin holes!


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#11 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted April 03, 2017 - 07:50 PM

Now your talking more of a project than I would want to deal with. Time to put a different tank under that new cap you ordered.  :smilewink:


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#12 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted April 04, 2017 - 05:52 AM

Now your talking more of a project than I would want to deal with. Time to put a different tank under that new cap you ordered.  :smilewink:

I don't have another tank the cap will fit on! And this didn't look that bad to start with!


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#13 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted July 30, 2017 - 01:37 PM

Well, I tried fixing the LK tank once again. Every time I heat it, more holes show up so I give up on it. I'm going to use the tank I bought at the show this Spring.

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I wire wheeled the paint off it and put on a coat of Rust Reformer.
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It's a bigger tank and will sit higher up, just have to mount so I can pull the rope to start this thing.
 
Here's the original tank for a Tecumseh V60 engine.
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