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Garden Tractors and Parts on eBay



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My 150.00 Economy tractor...1960.


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#16 classic ONLINE  

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Posted April 01, 2017 - 12:28 PM

Thanks GB. I use a Lisle hone, a dial bore gauge, and a pair of dial calipers to get the job done. ATF makes good honing oil, so I use cheap Dollar tore stuff for that. Most of the honing is done with the hone in my drill press. I use a 1/2 hand held drill with the Lisle hone and fine stones to get a nice cross hatch pattern near the end. It takes a lot of checking with the dial bore gauge to get the cylinder taper out. In the beginning, most honing is done at the bottom of the bore where the rings don't contact the cylinder.

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Edited by classic, April 01, 2017 - 12:31 PM.

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#17 classic ONLINE  

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Posted April 01, 2017 - 12:44 PM

This is a handy little kit by Newway that I use to cut my valve seats. The cutter has 31° and 46° angles so that you can do a two angle valve job to narrow up the valve seat area. Most times I replace the exhaust valve seat because they are usually pretty hammered. I mig weld around the inside of the valve seat insert, let it cool, and the seat insert practically falls out. I freeze the new seat insert, warm the block, then drive it in the new seat. Valves for these old Briggs engines are cheap, so I always replace them.
When I bought the tools to do this engine work, I looked for deals on ebay. I also picked up a good used valve guide reamer and reamer guide to be able to install new bronze valve guide liners when needed. It's great to be able to do all of the work to prep my blocks myself now.

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Edited by classic, April 01, 2017 - 12:45 PM.

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#18 MNGB ONLINE  

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Posted April 01, 2017 - 01:06 PM

Hi classic thanks for that good information, I've honed a lots of cylinders but never to oversize just honed to get ready for ring install and have always sent the vlave work out other then to lap them, I'm kind of interested in those tools but at my age do't know if it would be a paying deal other then to be able to do it myself.


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#19 classic ONLINE  

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Posted April 01, 2017 - 01:33 PM

You're welcome. Cylinders wear to a taper and out of round pretty badly. You can see this when you first start honing the cylinder with the rigid hone and straight stones. On rering jobs by just using a flex hone or ball hone, the cylinder will not be round and it will be tapered. This causes the rings to expand and contract as the piston moves up and down in the cylinder. When this happens, the piston ring grooves start widening. This is the reason I bought the rigid hone. Most of the engines I'm rebuilding will get a lot of hours put on them, so it was worth investing in these tools. I won't get my money back for the tools unless I sell them, lol! All of the work I do on these machines and engines is for my own use. I just like doing the engine work myself and it's one of my favorite parts of the hobby.
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#20 classic ONLINE  

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Posted April 10, 2017 - 07:08 PM

I've been pretty busy working on the tractor. I installed the new exhaust valve seat so I can finish the valve job now and assemble the engine. All of the engine tin is cleaned up and ready for paint, too. I decided to replace the front spindles, hubs, and axles to convert the tractor to 12" front rims. The 8" rims just don't do all that well when going through the woods to get firewood. Next step is to blast the frame and front end parts so that I can assemble the rear end back into the frame and get the tractor on four wheels. My cousin picked up a pair of wheel weights for a Farmall 320? that fit perfectly on the PK 16" rims. They are not quite as heavy as the original PK rear weights, but they will help. If I find another pair of these IH weights, I can stack them.

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Edited by classic, April 10, 2017 - 07:19 PM.

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#21 classic ONLINE  

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Posted April 10, 2017 - 07:24 PM

The weights are the same as these, and the part number is 370685R1. They seem to be around 40 lbs. each. If you need weights for the rear of your PK, big wheel Case, etc., these will work on the 16" rims.

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#22 tiretrx ONLINE  

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Posted April 11, 2017 - 07:08 AM

Your PK is progressing wonderfully. Enjoying the thread, thanks for taking the time to share :thumbs:


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#23 MNGB ONLINE  

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Posted April 11, 2017 - 07:23 AM

Good Morning, classic looking good thanks for the tip on the wheel wts. I researched the part number they were used on a number of IH / Farmall tractors in the 50's & 60's they were front wheel wts and the tractors that used those wt would have had 16" front wheels so the rims would probably also work. 


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#24 oldiron1 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 11, 2017 - 09:37 AM

Good Morning, classic looking good thanks for the tip on the wheel wts. I researched the part number they were used on a number of IH / Farmall tractors in the 50's & 60's they were front wheel wts and the tractors that used those wt would have had 16" front wheels so the rims would probably also work. 

 

Just to clarify, the mentioned front wheel weights are specific to the Farmall Cub tractors. These were also the same wheel weights used for the rear of Cub Cadet garden tractors. All other IH/Farmall tractors had 15" or 16" front wheels and the weights were casted differently. 

 

The rear wheel weights from a Farmall Cub, A or B Farmall will bolt right onto an Economy with 24" wheels as well as the wheel centers were the same. 

 

Thanks, Rob


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#25 classic ONLINE  

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Posted April 11, 2017 - 11:34 AM

Oldiron1, yes, the Cub Cadet 12" rim rear wheel weights work great on the front of the PK. These bigger diameter IH weights that I have are a larger diameter, and have a larger bolt pattern that match the bolt pattern on the rear PK 16" rims. Here is a pic of a Cub Cadet rear weight on the front of my PK. Here is the other IH weight sitting on an old PK front rim to show the difference in bolt pattern and diameter of the weights. I would have to check the offset on the 16" IH rims GB, to see if they are the same as the PK. I'll keep updating this post as I move along with the project. I'm just glad that the warmer weather is here and I can get back to it!

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#26 MNGB ONLINE  

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Posted April 11, 2017 - 12:29 PM

Just to clarify, the mentioned front wheel weights are specific to the Farmall Cub tractors. These were also the same wheel weights used for the rear of Cub Cadet garden tractors. All other IH/Farmall tractors had 15" or 16" front wheels and the weights were casted differently. 

 

The rear wheel weights from a Farmall Cub, A or B Farmall will bolt right onto an Economy with 24" wheels as well as the wheel centers were the same. 

 

Thanks, Rob

Hi, the front wts classic and I were talking about are for large IH tractors with 16" pressed steel front wheels, I have a set of MM front wheel wts on my 1618 16" rear wheels and they are good but the IH ones would be easier in that the bolt holes line up. here's a link to some.

 

https://burchstoretr...actors-370685r1


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#27 oldiron1 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 11, 2017 - 04:09 PM

Ah, sorry guys; I miss-understood the application that you were discussing thinking you were talking about front wheel weights.

 

I'm familiar with the 16" IH front wheel weights but didn't realize the bolt pattern is the same as a 16" rear PK wheel; neat!

 

Rob


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#28 classic ONLINE  

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Posted April 18, 2017 - 06:15 PM

I finished building the replacement Briggs 23AFB for the tractor. I just have to put some oil and gas in it and it's ready for it's first start. I'll start it tomorrow when I have more time and let it run for 15 minutes or so. After an oil change, it will be ready for paint and decals. I'm glad that I decided to rebuild this spare engine rather than the generator engine that I was going to use. Once I removed the oil pan from the generator engine, I could see that it too, like the original engine on the tractor, broke a connecting rod in the past. I piece of the bottom of the cylinder was missing, along with a large chunk of the Web by the crankcase breather hole. At least I was able to use some of the parts from the generator engine for my build.

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Edited by classic, April 18, 2017 - 06:17 PM.

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#29 classic ONLINE  

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Posted April 19, 2017 - 09:52 AM

Just drained the initial break in oil and the engine runs great. It's very important to change the oil after the first 15 or so minutes of running the engine. I'll remove the oil pan and clean it out after the engine sits for a bit. Once the engine is painted and installed on the tractor, I'll change the oil after an hour of run time. Light use for the first five hours or so and it will be good to go!

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#30 classic ONLINE  

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Posted April 19, 2017 - 11:19 AM

Here's a short video of the engine running.


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