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My first engine rebuild (K-241)


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#76 Joe Knife OFFLINE  

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Posted June 15, 2017 - 03:05 PM

Solved my valve spring problem without removing the tappet adjustment screws. The spring compressor tool I had bought came with two sets of jaws so I took them both off and bolted them together and used them in conjunction with a C clamp to compress the spring enough to fit in between the tappet and the valve guide

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#77 Joe Knife OFFLINE  

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Posted June 15, 2017 - 04:54 PM

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#78 dodge trucker ONLINE  

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Posted June 15, 2017 - 05:02 PM

I've checked Autozone they don't have one. I'm not about to spend $80 for a one-time-use tool.

Still wondering if I can fully remove the top of the tappet without hurting anything in order to get the valve springs in.

you get what you pay for.... again the rod torque is too critical to "guess" with a ft/lb torque wrench. , the in/lb is a "finer" adjustment, ft/lb is like a "coarse adjustment...

You don't have ANYONE that you know that works on cars for a living? or tractors?  couldn't you borrow one?  If you lived closer I'd let you use one of mine.


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#79 Joe Knife OFFLINE  

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Posted June 18, 2017 - 09:50 AM

The choke ear on the carbeurator contacts the air filter assembly so I'll have to trim it off a little.

#80 Joe Knife OFFLINE  

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Posted June 19, 2017 - 04:59 PM

I've got the engine back on the frame at this point, and about all I have left to install is covers and tins so I'm going to retire this thread now and revert to posting in my overall restoration thread (link in OP of this thread).

 

First time I start it up I'll record a video and link it here.



#81 dodge trucker ONLINE  

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Posted October 22, 2017 - 09:20 PM

ever get anywhere on this?



#82 LilysDad ONLINE  

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Posted October 23, 2017 - 07:04 AM

He hasn't been on here since August 19th. I think all of our grumbling drives folks away more than the owners can.



#83 dodge trucker ONLINE  

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Posted October 23, 2017 - 03:45 PM

Really? And I thought that was what kept people here.
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#84 Joe Knife OFFLINE  

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Posted November 19, 2017 - 11:15 AM

Hey, sorry, I just put this on the back burner for a while but I've got the engine started once or twice TODAY for the first time. Need to figure out how to adjust the carb. attached is a pic.

 

The manual talks about Main Fuel Needle, Low Idle Speed, and Low Idle Fuel Needle. Which one is which?

Carb.jpeg


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#85 poncho62 ONLINE  

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Posted November 19, 2017 - 11:18 AM

The needle on the top of the carb is the high speed....the one going into the side is the idle circuit. I usually set them both at about 1 1/2 turns out from bottoming to start. That other screw just sets the idle when you shut throttle down. 

 

Then once running at idle...set the idle screw for best running without stumbling. Then rev up engine and set high speed.  

 

You may also want to pull bowl off to check float height....and for crud in the bowl


Edited by poncho62, November 19, 2017 - 11:22 AM.


#86 Joe Knife OFFLINE  

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Posted November 19, 2017 - 11:58 AM

It's a brand new carb so no worry about crud.

 

Your names for the screws don't match the names in the manual so I don't know what to do with that.



#87 poncho62 ONLINE  

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Posted November 19, 2017 - 12:32 PM

I guess what I call high speed needle is your Main Fuel Needle....and my idle circuit is your Low Idle Fuel needle



#88 Joe Knife OFFLINE  

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Posted November 27, 2017 - 07:52 AM

Thanks! I have not been able to keep it running with the original (rebuilt) fuel pump. I ordered a new fuel pump from Isavetractors and it should be arriving today. Will report back...


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#89 dodge trucker ONLINE  

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Posted November 27, 2017 - 08:54 PM

sure it is fuel? Got points set right?  is coil flaking out?  ignition and fuel issues can often fool you into thinking it is "the other".



#90 dodge trucker ONLINE  

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Posted November 27, 2017 - 09:00 PM

on your brand new carb, where did it come from? Is it one of the newer cheap reproductions?    I am quite leery of them, don't know how good the machining or casting can be on something so cheap to buy, that is so important to how an engine runs (or doesn't). Id rather redo the original carb and take my chances, even though that might mean rebushing the throttle shaft.  When you can buy a whole carb for about what a kit costs that scares me.  

unless it is severely corroded (water left in bowl for a fairly long time) I have pretty good luck with fixing Kohler carbs.

 

and IDK about the Kohler copy carbs, but I know that you cannot use an OEM Tecumseh kit in a aftermarket carb, (using them for example purposes only) some sell kits for their carbs but not all.   I'm not a fan of "throw it away and get another".... I'm thinking of future serviceability especially with what they call "gas" these days.






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