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My first engine rebuild (K-241)


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#76 Joe Knife OFFLINE  

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Posted June 15, 2017 - 03:05 PM

Solved my valve spring problem without removing the tappet adjustment screws. The spring compressor tool I had bought came with two sets of jaws so I took them both off and bolted them together and used them in conjunction with a C clamp to compress the spring enough to fit in between the tappet and the valve guide

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#77 Joe Knife OFFLINE  

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Posted June 15, 2017 - 04:54 PM

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#78 dodge trucker ONLINE  

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Posted June 15, 2017 - 05:02 PM

I've checked Autozone they don't have one. I'm not about to spend $80 for a one-time-use tool.

Still wondering if I can fully remove the top of the tappet without hurting anything in order to get the valve springs in.

you get what you pay for.... again the rod torque is too critical to "guess" with a ft/lb torque wrench. , the in/lb is a "finer" adjustment, ft/lb is like a "coarse adjustment...

You don't have ANYONE that you know that works on cars for a living? or tractors?  couldn't you borrow one?  If you lived closer I'd let you use one of mine.


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#79 Joe Knife OFFLINE  

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Posted June 18, 2017 - 09:50 AM

The choke ear on the carbeurator contacts the air filter assembly so I'll have to trim it off a little.

#80 Joe Knife OFFLINE  

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Posted June 19, 2017 - 04:59 PM

I've got the engine back on the frame at this point, and about all I have left to install is covers and tins so I'm going to retire this thread now and revert to posting in my overall restoration thread (link in OP of this thread).

 

First time I start it up I'll record a video and link it here.



#81 dodge trucker ONLINE  

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Posted October 22, 2017 - 09:20 PM

ever get anywhere on this?



#82 LilysDad OFFLINE  

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Posted October 23, 2017 - 07:04 AM

He hasn't been on here since August 19th. I think all of our grumbling drives folks away more than the owners can.



#83 dodge trucker ONLINE  

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Posted October 23, 2017 - 03:45 PM

Really? And I thought that was what kept people here.
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#84 Joe Knife OFFLINE  

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Posted November 19, 2017 - 11:15 AM

Hey, sorry, I just put this on the back burner for a while but I've got the engine started once or twice TODAY for the first time. Need to figure out how to adjust the carb. attached is a pic.

 

The manual talks about Main Fuel Needle, Low Idle Speed, and Low Idle Fuel Needle. Which one is which?

Carb.jpeg



#85 poncho62 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 19, 2017 - 11:18 AM

The needle on the top of the carb is the high speed....the one going into the side is the idle circuit. I usually set them both at about 1 1/2 turns out from bottoming to start. That other screw just sets the idle when you shut throttle down. 

 

Then once running at idle...set the idle screw for best running without stumbling. Then rev up engine and set high speed.  

 

You may also want to pull bowl off to check float height....and for crud in the bowl


Edited by poncho62, November 19, 2017 - 11:22 AM.


#86 Joe Knife OFFLINE  

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Posted November 19, 2017 - 11:58 AM

It's a brand new carb so no worry about crud.

 

Your names for the screws don't match the names in the manual so I don't know what to do with that.



#87 poncho62 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 19, 2017 - 12:32 PM

I guess what I call high speed needle is your Main Fuel Needle....and my idle circuit is your Low Idle Fuel needle






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