My first engine rebuild (K-241)
Posted May 24, 2017 - 05:43 AM
Posted May 24, 2017 - 12:32 PM
I'm glad I went ahead and bought the NOS. 0.003 over piston, piston is actually at 0.005 bigger than the "standard" one from the kit. Kohler still went with standard rings with the 0.003 OS piston, cylinder is 0.0025/0.003 over while specs allow a little more, but this puts it right back to brand new clearance, ring end gap is right at the high end of tolerance.
Posted May 24, 2017 - 12:35 PM
Posted June 05, 2017 - 03:00 PM
Alright, my re-assembly is underway. Got a couple camshaft questions.
Wider at some parts and thinner at others...is that normal?
2) Book says endplay should be between .005 and .020. I haven't been able to easily slide ANY feeler gauge in there (even .004) but there is enough play that when I wiggle the camshaft back and forth on the pin, within the block, I hear a "tink" as it contacts each side. To me if there was no endplay, I couldn't do that.
The book says to add shims if the endplay is excessive, but it doesn't say what to do if it's too tight--take the shaft out and sand down the end a bit?
Edited by Joe Knife, June 05, 2017 - 03:37 PM.
Posted June 06, 2017 - 09:00 AM
- KennyP said thank you
Posted June 08, 2017 - 07:02 AM
I put the bearing plate on with the gasket and 2 shims, found the endplay to be excessive, so I pulled the plate again and removed a shim. Then endplay went to zero?!? When I pulled the plate again the bearing stayed on the crank shaft so then I had to pull the crank shaft and carefully tap the bearing off with a punch working around side to side to tap it off evenly. Went back to gasket plus 2 shims BUT scraped off the paint I had added, and it came out fine. That took way longer than it should have though--like this whole project.
- KennyP said thank you
Posted June 08, 2017 - 09:42 PM
When I did mine, I started with just the thick gasket.. I think ~0.030" thick... no endplay... add 1, 0.010" shim and seemingly none yet. took the gasket + 2 shims to get mine where they call for....
when I did my last one, it seemed to have none (end play) as I was putting it together, but now that it is together, it definitely has a little... not gonna yank the engine and pull the pan to check it but it is enough to "feel" when I grab the pto end and pull and push...
I think maybe my ball bearings finally seated themselves in the casting, once the crank got some centrifugal force behind it.... hope that doesn't mean that this one will end up with too much, once it is again running.
Posted June 08, 2017 - 09:45 PM
hope you guys don't mind my putting my info on my engine into this thread, not trying to derail anything or dilute his thread, but being that we are (separately) working on similar projects basically at the same time.... sometimes it just seems fair to compare "notes" to someone going thru the same process,
sort of verification that they are going together "right".... when you hear someone else with similar results as you....
- Joe Knife said thank you
Posted June 14, 2017 - 05:33 PM
Posted June 14, 2017 - 06:14 PM
- dodge trucker said thank you
Posted June 14, 2017 - 06:31 PM
That's correct. Be aware that using a ft. lbs. wrench doesn't give you much room for error.
Posted June 14, 2017 - 08:06 PM
Is it possible to take the top of the tappets all the way out by unscrewing them?
Edited by Joe Knife, June 14, 2017 - 08:07 PM.
Posted June 14, 2017 - 09:57 PM
GET an inch lb torque wrench. you have too much into this build to "guess" Alot of foot pound torque wrenches don't even go down that low... and no torque wrench is accurate in t6he lower most 20% of its RANGE; mind you that may not start at zero/
I have clickers that start at 40 ft/lb one goes to 200 the other to 250. so the one that goes from 40-200 the range is 160 ft/lb, 20% of that is 32, so I would not trust it below about 72 ft lb.... way above 21.6 huh?
Even if you beg borrow or steal one, heck theres gotta be a Sears or (gasp) even a HF near by. Head and rod bolt torques are too critical to "guess" things like flywheel nut, carb mount, and such aren't that critical, I never worry about "torquing" those.... jsut go by :feel" of course I have been doing this for a long time.
I have used an INCH LB torque wrench to do a FT/LB spec but I would never ever go the other direction!!!
Posted June 15, 2017 - 11:09 AM
Still wondering if I can fully remove the top of the tappet without hurting anything in order to get the valve springs in.
Posted June 15, 2017 - 02:20 PM
You can get one for $35 at HF. . . and you can use it for gun stuff.