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My first engine rebuild (K-241)


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#46 Joe Knife ONLINE  

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Posted April 05, 2017 - 05:22 PM

Removing the dip stick tube (this is my chance to contribute something rather than sponging off you guys)

 

Flip the block upside down on a bench and set a 17mm deep well socket on the inner lip of the dipstick tube. Drive it out with a wooden dowel.

 

post-59190-0-95066300-1491430890.jpg     post-59190-0-50256500-1491430901.jpg

 

* once again pics are oriented differently here than they are on my PC. Sorry 'bout that out of my control.

 

Edit thanks Kenny!

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Edited by Joe Knife, April 05, 2017 - 05:52 PM.
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#47 dodge trucker OFFLINE  

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Posted April 05, 2017 - 05:25 PM

Are you going from a plastic governor to a steel? May need a different washer in there!

What would be different about it? The steel one I put into my K301 didn't come with one. so I left the original one from the plastic gear in mine. jsut to keep the gear itself from spinning against the block surface.



#48 dodge trucker OFFLINE  

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Posted April 05, 2017 - 05:27 PM

The Phillips screw headed retainer bolt has and needs its brass sealing washer under the head. This is the bolt that keeps the governor gear from falling off that stud and washer, until you get the governor adjusted. It screws into the block next to the brass governor shaft nut.

the threads for this screw, I had to Heli coil in my current project, threads were smooth as if it were never threaded from the factory....



#49 Joe Knife ONLINE  

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Posted April 17, 2017 - 02:23 PM

Latest update: just dropped off the block at a local machine shop for measurement and possible work. He said it might be a week and a half before he can get to it.

In the meantime, should I do anything with the flywheel? Just wire brush it and paint it or should I try an electrolysis treatment?

#50 dodge trucker OFFLINE  

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Posted April 17, 2017 - 05:42 PM

just got a call from the machine shop, mine is done, price a lil more than I thought it might be, though

1. 1st time using these guys

2. we didn't discuss price before they started work

and 3. it has been about 3-4 years already since I had my last Kohler block machined, prices always go up not down...

What I found out about my current 12hp;

surprisingly did not need bored, has a 0,035"  (3 and 1/2 thousandths) tolerance and it wound up at o.003"

valve seats cut

head resurfaced

deck (top block surface) resurfaced just enough to clean up, something like 0.005 or 0.007"

I found a NOS OEM Kohler 0.003 oversize piston on FeeBay, there were several, wide price variation on the same part... so with that my tolerances should be exactly like a brand new engine

I also expected to have them tell me the valve guides would be "shot", but they weren't. I have new OEM ones here just in case.

the exhaust valve though was "shot"... got a new OEM one on Ebay again wide variation in price for same part... when comparing same part I look for the cheapest... no difference between a factory Kohler valve for this engine at $22 shipped vs a factory Kohler valve for $64...  be careful how some are worded, many listed for sale are not factory parts.
I originally bought an Ebay kit but once they gave me the results of machine work I went back to Ebay and looked for that 0.003" piston... I dug out my 3-4" micrometer (NOT a caliper!) and the OEM one is 0.005" larger than the aftermarket "standard" one that I receivedin the kit... I'll use that one in the next build.... if I can get away with std sized parts.

but my very next Kohler build planned is a 14hp so it'll have to go onto teh shelf.... I do have another 12hp collecting dust that probably needs to be done..... but not a skinny base like Cub cadets take.


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#51 dodge trucker OFFLINE  

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Posted April 17, 2017 - 06:11 PM

Removing the dip stick tube (this is my chance to contribute something rather than sponging off you guys)

 

Flip the block upside down on a bench and set a 17mm deep well socket on the inner lip of the dipstick tube. Drive it out with a wooden dowel.

 

attachicon.gifpost-59190-0-95066300-1491430890.jpg    attachicon.gifpost-59190-0-50256500-1491430901.jpg

 

* once again pics are oriented differently here than they are on my PC. Sorry 'bout that out of my control.

 

Edit thanks Kenny!

17mm tools ugh... this day and age... nobody wants to use good old SAE "standard" tools, even though that is mostly all we had here in the US when those machines were in their prime....



#52 Joe Knife ONLINE  

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Posted April 17, 2017 - 06:14 PM

17mm tools ugh... this day and age... nobody wants to use good old SAE "standard" tools, even though that is mostly all we had here in the US when those machines were in their prime....

 

Actually I intentionally chose a metric socket because I don't mind using them as a punch! I'd rather use my standard sockets for their intended purpose LOL!


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#53 augustn1 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 17, 2017 - 11:51 PM

Thanks for the thread, I've just dropped my block off today for a sleeve job. Good luck with the rebuild!



#54 Joe Knife ONLINE  

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Posted April 18, 2017 - 02:43 PM

Standing question: In the meantime, should I do anything with the flywheel? Just wire brush it and paint it or should I try an electrolysis treatment?



#55 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted April 18, 2017 - 02:54 PM

I would wire brush and tape off the outside edge if I were to paint. Won't see that part with the tins on.



#56 LilysDad ONLINE  

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Posted April 18, 2017 - 05:20 PM

Standing question: In the meantime, should I do anything with the flywheel? Just wire brush it and paint it or should I try an electrolysis treatment?

Depends on your standard of living.



#57 Joe Knife ONLINE  

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Posted April 26, 2017 - 04:52 PM

Machine shop says it needs the cylinder bored .010 over and the crankshaft .010 under, plus new valves and guides. I've got a line on a piston and rod from a member here. If anyone can direct me to genuine Kohler valves and guides that aren't a fortune I'd appreciate it.

 

Just for my own reference putting this here:

 

Intake 235008-s

Exhaust 235826-s

guides 235007-S


Edited by Joe Knife, April 27, 2017 - 01:43 PM.


#58 FixItCharlie ONLINE  

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Posted April 29, 2017 - 10:30 PM

You  might try this place. http://gardentractor...s.com/index.htm

 

Charlie



#59 Joe Knife ONLINE  

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Posted May 15, 2017 - 04:57 PM

Dropped off all the parts at the machine shop today. Should have it back by end of week hopefully.



#60 gopher OFFLINE  

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Posted May 15, 2017 - 10:19 PM

Latest update: just dropped off the block at a local machine shop for measurement and possible work. He said it might be a week and a half before he can get to it.

In the meantime, should I do anything with the flywheel? Just wire brush it and paint it or should I try an electrolysis treatment?

Might be too late I am doing a large flywheel. Round plastic tub and 3 gallons white vinegar starting to remove rust over night.  






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