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My first engine rebuild (K-241)


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#16 Joe Knife OFFLINE  

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Posted March 25, 2017 - 05:20 PM

Got the flywheel off with a steering wheel puller borrowed from Advance Auto Parts.

 

IMG_5091.JPG

 

The flywheel has obviously been sitting in one position for like 15 years and apparently getting moisture...seems like there might be more rust in some areas than others. How critical is balance on this? Should I have it checked?

 

Standing question from prior post: Does the "B" on the piston face and head gasket area mean anything?

 

Thanks.


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#17 Dayton_King OFFLINE  

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Posted March 25, 2017 - 06:20 PM

I am in Atlanta. I have 10 to 15 k241s out of Jakes and ford 100s. I can help you out if you need it. My machinist does work for NASA and Core of Engineers. Need to pop the piston out and measure bore
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#18 Dayton_King OFFLINE  

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Posted March 25, 2017 - 06:22 PM

B does not. Make since. Top of piston should say STD which is the only good Std you want. Then .010, 020 or .030. If you are .030 time to resleeve or cheaper to get a new block
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#19 Rock farmer OFFLINE  

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Posted March 26, 2017 - 06:39 AM

To stop the crankshaft from spinning while you remove the flywheel nut,
Just put some old rope or rag into the cylinder and re-install the cylinder head.
No need to torque the bolts just tighten them up. use them all.
Use a wire wheel on an electric drill to clean the thread on the end of the crank shaft before
Attempting to remove the nut.
The "B" on the block and piston is there so you don't re-install the piston 180 degrees out.

Joe
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#20 Joe Knife OFFLINE  

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Posted March 26, 2017 - 07:57 AM

To stop the crankshaft from spinning while you remove the flywheel nut,
Just put some old rope or rag into the cylinder and re-install the cylinder head.

 

This is really clever but I ended up borrowing a pneumatic impact driver from a neighbor. Man I need one of those in my life. Talk about easy!

 

At this point I'm trying to get the bearing plate off. The video I saw he just tapped it off with a plastic hammer. Not happening here. I've been cleaning up the shaft and soaking with PB Blaster and waiting. Might try a puller after I return this steering wheel one (which is too small).


Edited by Joe Knife, March 26, 2017 - 12:28 PM.

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#21 Joe Knife OFFLINE  

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Posted March 27, 2017 - 02:01 PM

I was able to pull the bearing plate using an axle puller borrowed from AutoZone. Flipped over to accommodate my bolts that were too long. I'll upload a pic later.

IMG_2218.JPG

Edited by Joe Knife, March 27, 2017 - 08:51 PM.

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#22 Joe Knife OFFLINE  

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Posted March 28, 2017 - 11:25 AM

OK guys can we tell anything meaningful from looking at this piston? No marks on it I can find except the "B" on top that I've already mentioned. I noticed that the top ring stayed tucked in while the bottom 2 popped out of their seats. Also I'm seeing some scratches around the top edge of the piston, especially on one side--is that normal? The bore looks really good to me but I know measurements will be needed next.

 

Any input appreciated.

 

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IMG_5117.JPG


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#23 DougT ONLINE  

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Posted March 28, 2017 - 04:34 PM

A few scratches around the top of the piston wouldn't be a problem but in the 3rd pic it looks like there is a lot of material missing on top of the ring. If it is, the piston is junk. The top ring should be free just like the bottom ones. You could clean up an old ring and put it in the bore to check the end gap. Check it at the top and bottom and that will tell you how much taper is in the cylinder.


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#24 Joe Knife OFFLINE  

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Posted March 29, 2017 - 07:30 AM

I'm not sure if it's material missing from the top ring I think it's just stuck down inside the groove and I don't have a tool to remove it yet. I'll check that before I do anything.

#25 LilysDad OFFLINE  

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Posted March 29, 2017 - 07:41 PM

I'm not sure if it's material missing from the top ring . . .

He is sayin g that there is material missing above the ring.


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#26 dodge trucker OFFLINE  

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Posted March 31, 2017 - 06:27 PM

yup the top ring land between the top ring and the "piston top" is all ate up. That motor ate alot of dirt for sure.  just like the one out of my 1200, that one is at the machine shop as we speak waiting on a call to see how much oversize I need to get..... I doubt it will clean up "std" with just a hone..... sure I could hone it and stick a new std piston and rings in, but if it's out of round, or tapered, gotta be done if you don't want to go thru the motions again very soon..... I just had a guy at work today tell me that he has a Kohler 12 in a Cub 125, he just had it "rebuilt" and it smokes....... he didn't bore it and he used the old piston......


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#27 Joe Knife OFFLINE  

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Posted April 02, 2017 - 06:48 AM

OK good info I will definitely get the bore measured at a machine shop once I get everything apart.

 

For now I'm stuck on getting the valves out. I've seen a video where the springs are removed with a valve spring compressor and another one where a guy just popped them out with a screwdriver. I'm having a hard time seeing how the "keepers" come apart when the spring is compressed. Will keep searching and working on it...



#28 IHCubGuy OFFLINE  

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Posted April 02, 2017 - 07:24 AM

To stop the crankshaft from spinning while you remove the flywheel nut,
Just put some old rope or rag into the cylinder and re-install the cylinder head.
 

 

I know you're past this step but another option I learned in college for heavy equipment is to throw a rag into the timing gear train.  Let it pinch in the gears and it will stop the crank as well.  Works good on transmission shafts as well.


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#29 GardnMastr OFFLINE  

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Posted April 02, 2017 - 07:55 AM

The piston is cut above the top ring ring by carbon buildup in the cylinder next to the exhaust valve. The piston is bad. A new one is needed, it might as well be oversize. You have vertical scratches in you're cylinder bore, time to oversize. The connecting rod is standard size. An undersize rod will have a 1/16 hole drilled in it in the lower middle, if it's factory Kohler. Pry up on the valve spring keepers, tap down on the valve head, and flip the tapered keepers off the valve stem.
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#30 LilysDad OFFLINE  

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Posted April 02, 2017 - 08:17 AM

If you do this job right with good parts, this engine can last you another 40-50 years.


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