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not charging =(


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#1 Guest_jdecker94_*

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Posted June 09, 2011 - 07:32 PM

so i looked into my charging system, using my kohler k532 manual i ran tests and test b says if its lower than 28 dc volts its the stator, if its higher then its my regulator. well mine settled at 26 give or take. so would that little bit matter? if so how hard is it to get to my stator?

#2 EricFromPa OFFLINE  

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Posted June 09, 2011 - 08:04 PM

You are going to have to pull the engine to remove the blower housing and flywheel.

Whatever you do,do NOT use a hammer to knock the flywheel loose.Get yourself a good crows foot Puller and pull it off.
If you don't you'll damage the threads or even break the threaded end off of the Crank.

It may just need a good cleaning under the flywheel or you could be missing a couple magnets on the flywheel.If it's charging at 26 I would suspect the stator is working correctly and you have missing or broken magnets on the flywheel and alot of fine grass clippings and dirt build up.

#3 caseguy OFFLINE  

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Posted June 09, 2011 - 08:22 PM

I agree with Eric that it may be some kind of obstruction or broken magnets. I would take it down and see what's in there before buying a new stator. In order to find the correct stator though, we'll need the rest of the numbers after K532 (should be a series of numbers, 5 or 6 digits and possibly a letter at the end. When you get it torn down, post some pics. That should help us help you out.

#4 Guest_jdecker94_*

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Posted June 09, 2011 - 08:27 PM

so im gonna need to take my engine off the tractor just to get in there? if i have to ill sell it on craigslist for more then i have into it.

#5 EricFromPa OFFLINE  

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Posted June 09, 2011 - 08:41 PM

There are 4 bolts on the oil pan,driveshaft,a couple wires to unplug,fuel line and throttle and choke cables to remove and the engine is Out of there.

It would take me about 20 minutes to pull the engine with wrenches and 10 minutes tops with an Air Impact gun.

It's not a big deal to remove an engine from a Garden tractor.

I can take the engine out of my Cub in less than 5 minutes and completely take it apart in under 30 minutes

#6 Guest_jdecker94_*

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Posted June 09, 2011 - 08:50 PM

sometimes i get so nervous about engine stuff i just drop tools and run away. engine stuff makes me shake sometimes. im gonna try it without taking it out.

#7 motobreeder OFFLINE  

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Posted June 09, 2011 - 10:02 PM

I'm not that skilled, but replaced a head gasket recently. The hardest part was removing the first bolt.

#8 jupiter OFFLINE  

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Posted June 10, 2011 - 04:18 AM

I have to chime in. The hardest part is getting someone to believe in themself, that they can actually do it if they want to. Take your time, take notes, take pictures. I tore my kids 91 Buick Lesabre's steering column apart after it was jacked. Photos helped my old brain remember how it looked when reassembling it a day later. Tilt columns suck btw. You can do it!

#9 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted June 10, 2011 - 05:03 AM

You can do it, you also have all of us to lean on if you need help. Like Eric said it isn't hard to get the engine yanked out. I have faith in ya :D

#10 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 10, 2011 - 05:43 AM

You can do it, you also have all of us to lean on if you need help. Like Eric said it isn't hard to get the engine yanked out. I have faith in ya :D


:ditto:

#11 Guest_jdecker94_*

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Posted June 10, 2011 - 05:56 AM

yeah, i do have to paint the blocks since the fins are paper thin by the manifold. i guess it cant be overly hard. im assuming drain the oil b4 i take it out?

#12 caseguy OFFLINE  

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Posted June 10, 2011 - 07:28 AM

Have faith in you abilities jdecker94! As to the question of the oil...As long as you don't turn the engine on its side or upside down, the oil will not come out. Pulling the flywheel doesn't open the crankcase. Best of luck and remember the pics along the way.

#13 KIRO-1 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 10, 2011 - 10:07 AM

You can do this. Every one here will be there to help out. (well, not physically.LOL) I was nervous the first time I did it then after realized how simple it really was.
Remember, if you mess up there's always the forum family to help you fix it!!:D

#14 Bobo ONLINE  

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Posted June 10, 2011 - 01:19 PM

Yep. If I can anyone can with support of the pros on this site. I had charging issues and worked through the entire circuit. I found that when someone did the rebuild they did not run the stator cables properly and the flywheel wore through them. There was not enough wire left to repair the break so I broke down the motor and took just the motor in. Turned out some magnets were missing to so for 80 I got a used flywheel put on and the wires repaired. Had I had a proper puller, I would have done it myself.

Go for it!

#15 DougT OFFLINE  

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Posted June 11, 2011 - 07:35 AM

Hope I'm not too late with this. I tried to post this yesterday but for some reason it killed my post. Personally, since its so close on the voltage, I'd do a little more thinking on the subject before I just tore into the stator. Below are some thoughts. Don't know if any will help.

1) The 28vac test has an RPM spec of 3400-3600 rpm. Were you running it fast enough?

2) It takes 13-14v to charge a battery. The regulated dc voltage will be about half the ac output. What is the dc output on the center terminal of the regulator? You may need to pull the center wire out of the plug to test this. With 26vac going in, I'd expect to see something close to 13vdc coming out.

3) The center wire should have battery voltage with the key on-engine off. Does it? After starting, the voltage should go up. Does it?

4) The regulator has to ground through the case by the mounting screws. Some regulators on plastic shrouds have a seperate ground wire. An ohm test between the regulator case and battery ground should be almost 0 ohms. Is it?
  • dryrun said thank you




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