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GhoSt 1050 Build/Rebuild


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#121 GhoSt85 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 08, 2017 - 11:29 AM

Fuel line goes through the tank bracket hole and then behind the shroud next to the cooling fins.

 

Dont have any pics of the carbs saved on file maybe someone else can chime in and help, if you got the rebuild kit from me there was an instruction sheet that should show float setting, the float does keep the needle valve in place

 

The lack of engine power could still be carb or valve issues, have you checked the carb for warped sides?

 

I did not buy from you. I had found this kit in the stuff that came with the tractor and decided to replace a few gaskets in the carb. I think the previous guy tried to rebuild it. I did check for warped surfaces using a ruler and checking it in an X pattern. Everything seemed flat. I did not check the flange that connects to the elbow. Ill take it off and check. You know, the more I think about this, the more questions I have. I am going to take my carb back off and take it apart and take more pictures of how I have it set up. I feel like I am missing something.

 

I believe the fuel line should be routed across behing the flywheel if it is the same as a TRA10D  - http://gardentractor...project/page-28 post 415 pictures 7 and 8.  The fuel line does a 90 degree bend and goes on to the carb inlet fitting on the right hand side and the left side pushes on to the fuel tank valve -  http://gardentractor...project/page-29   post 423 figure 4 and   http://gardentractor...project/page-31    post 461 figure 8.  I added a fuel filter just after the fuel tank shut off valve on mine - hope this helps.  If you do not have the heat shield that you were missing on the right side of the engine that is painted ivory on my engine you could have things getting hot that may cause a vapour lock problem - just a thought.

 

Chev! Perfect! Thank you! All your posts are like picture books. I love them! This is exactly what I was looking for. I did get the heat shield I was missing. Which has improved the heat distribution immensely.  I don't have that screen on my flywheel though. Gonna look into making me one.

 

Thanks again guys, Ill be back on here tomorrow with some pictures.

GhoSt


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#122 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted July 08, 2017 - 03:54 PM

Sounds likt your on the right track

If you want I sell Genuine Wisconsin screens still if needed.

 

Post up some pics of your carb when you take it apart


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#123 GhoSt85 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 09, 2017 - 06:27 PM

Sounds likt your on the right track

If you want I sell Genuine Wisconsin screens still if needed.

 

Post up some pics of your carb when you take it apart

 

Awesome, Ill be getting it from you then.

 

OK so here is the pictures. Let me know if you guys need any other angles.

 

DSC_0392JPG_zpsocpltsuq.jpg

 

DSC_0394JPG_zpsdxgizptn.jpg

 

DSC_0397JPG_zpswone8opl.jpg

 

DSC_0399JPG_zpssbhnh2is.jpg

 

DSC_0400JPG_zpswkuki9kv.jpg

 

And here are the needles. The solid one is what was in the carb. The 3 piece is what is in the rebuild kit.

 

DSC_0403JPG_zps6xwh5vdu.jpg

 

DSC_0405JPG_zpsp2zyrqnj.jpg

 

Thanks for looking.

GhoSt



#124 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted July 09, 2017 - 06:30 PM

Looks like you got it set right


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#125 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted July 09, 2017 - 07:05 PM

Did you remove the venturi that goes between the bowl and the cover or is it missing?

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Gasket Install Around Venturi And Venturi In Bowl Cover Assembly.jpg
  • 2 Venturi.jpg

Edited by 29 Chev, July 09, 2017 - 07:05 PM.

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#126 GhoSt85 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 09, 2017 - 07:44 PM

Looks like you got it set right

 

Well, that's not good. lol Now I am down to just vapor lock. I hope that is the cause because then, Ill be out of ideas. I hope it's not engine related.

 

Did you remove the venturi that goes between the bowl and the cover or is it missing?

 

Hey Stew,

 

I removed it for the pictures.

 

Looking at the carb rebuild instructions on Step 11 of ASSEMBLY OF THROTTLE BODY, I am reading that the height of the float from the base should be 1-5/32" +/- 1/32nd. Mine reads 1 1/4" which is 3/32" over. I will try to correct this and give it another go.

 

DSC_0406_zpsvs8pc9ne.jpg

(Sorry for not showing the right float I am measuring, camera is having trouble reading my sd card to retake picture.)


Edited by GhoSt85, July 09, 2017 - 07:45 PM.

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#127 GhoSt85 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 09, 2017 - 09:35 PM

Still nothing, I am going to try the 3 piece needle tomorrow.

 

Thanks for looking

GhoSt


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#128 GhoSt85 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 12, 2017 - 09:58 PM

Ok, I think I have figured it out guys. Thanks to Chev, I began to look into readjusting the governor. Before adjusting it, I made sure to set it up according to the manual but I also marked the fulcrum shaft to verify that it is moving. (Fulcrum shaft has a slight wiggle. Just turned it counter clockwise and tried to tighten the governor shaft) Turned her on and as it turns out, the fulcrum shaft isn't moving and when I move the throttle cable, the governor shaft just spins on it. Tried to tighten the governor shaft as hard as I could but it still spins on the fulcrum shaft. I will open it tomorrow and see what the problem is. Hope its not serious.

 

Thanks for looking guys.

GhoSt


Edited by GhoSt85, July 12, 2017 - 09:59 PM.

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#129 GhoSt85 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 13, 2017 - 07:23 PM

Ok you guys, so here are the pictures. I've looked at the manual and my camshaft gear does not look like the one in there.

 

DSC_0030JPG_zpshwcwal8m.jpg

 

DSC_0029JPG_zpsihljj0we.jpg

 

DSC_0034JPG_zpssigyrs4q.jpg

 

DSC_0036JPG_zpsi5r03vip.jpg

 

DSC_0027JPG_zpsdwvjhige.jpg

 

Also, I might have jumped a tooth trying to figure out how the governor gear works. Is this the correct locations?

 

DSC_0037JPG_zpssvqx1626.jpg

 

 

 

Thanks for looking

GhoSt


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#130 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted July 13, 2017 - 07:44 PM

Check out my 1053 thread - post #'s 385, 386 and 387 - http://gardentractor...project/page-26 for timing mark locations .

 

Yours does not have the compression release feature which I believe is normal for the model TR10D - it was added to the model TRA10D which is what you probably see in the manual - my engine is a TRA10D.  Is this the reason you are questioning the camshaft not looking correct?

 

I also notice that your governor arm has a Philips head on the screw that holds it on the shaft which may be why you could not get the arm tight enough so it did not turn on the shaft.  I believe that originally the bolt should have a hex head - just a thought.  

 

Check out pictures 12 and 13 in post # 398 to see what my bolt looks like which I believe is original - http://gardentractor...project/page-27 .

 

 


Edited by 29 Chev, July 13, 2017 - 07:52 PM.

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#131 GhoSt85 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 13, 2017 - 08:37 PM

Check out my 1053 thread - post #'s 385, 386 and 387 - http://gardentractor...project/page-26 for timing mark locations .

 

Yours does not have the compression release feature which I believe is normal for the model TR10D - it was added to the model TRA10D which is what you probably see in the manual - my engine is a TRA10D.  Is this the reason you are questioning the camshaft not looking correct?

 

I also notice that your governor arm has a Philips head on the screw that holds it on the shaft which may be why you could not get the arm tight enough so it did not turn on the shaft.  I believe that originally the bolt should have a hex head - just a thought.  

 

Check out pictures 12 and 13 in post # 398 to see what my bolt looks like which I believe is original - http://gardentractor...project/page-27 .

 

Yes that is correct. Thank you for the clarification. I was like, oh man. I am missing a huge part of the camshaft gear. I just went out and saw the tag on the motor. As it turns out, it is indeed a TR10D. I've been living a lie this whole time!

 

It also looks like my timing is good after readjust the camshaft gear like yours.

 

The governor seems to be intact and operational. I will change the bolt for the governor arm and buy a gasket for the cover. Looks like they just put silicone to seal it. Also, since the governor assembly seems to be fine. How much rotation should I expect the fulcrum to have? I was really expecting at least 1/4 of a turn of free play but I am only getting a quarter of that. Maybe an 1/8th of a rotation and that might be pushing it.

 

Since the motor is down, I am also going to check the head gasket. After the tractor went down the first time, in trying to get it running good again, I found out that all my head bolts were loose. Like, I can take them off by hand loose. All of them. Tighten them to specs and left it at that. I think it would be wise to repay the head gasket a visit.

 

That is it for today guys. Thanks for looking

Jesse


Edited by GhoSt85, July 13, 2017 - 08:38 PM.

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#132 Mark 149 J. OFFLINE  

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Posted July 13, 2017 - 11:03 PM

Yes that is correct. Thank you for the clarification. I was like, oh man. I am missing a huge part of the camshaft gear. I just went out and saw the tag on the motor. As it turns out, it is indeed a TR10D. I've been living a lie this whole time!

 

It also looks like my timing is good after readjust the camshaft gear like yours.

 

The governor seems to be intact and operational. I will change the bolt for the governor arm and buy a gasket for the cover. Looks like they just put silicone to seal it. Also, since the governor assembly seems to be fine. How much rotation should I expect the fulcrum to have? I was really expecting at least 1/4 of a turn of free play but I am only getting a quarter of that. Maybe an 1/8th of a rotation and that might be pushing it.

 

Since the motor is down, I am also going to check the head gasket. After the tractor went down the first time, in trying to get it running good again, I found out that all my head bolts were loose. Like, I can take them off by hand loose. All of them. Tighten them to specs and left it at that. I think it would be wise to repay the head gasket a visit.

 

That is it for today guys. Thanks for looking

Jesse

If your head bolt were that loose that might explain the bogging down under load.  You might be losing compression reducing the amount of power the engine can produce.  That might also explain why you said the engine was getting so hot.  The exhaust gases are being vented around the head and not through the muffler.  New head gasket would be cheap insurance at this point.  

Sorry, can't help you on the governor.

Good luck.


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#133 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted July 14, 2017 - 06:10 AM

Everything looks good to me, maybe your issue was the screw in place of the bolt on the governor shaft making it slip

29chev explained things pretty well

 

If you dont have luck elsewhere I stock the  governor arm service kit which gives you a new lever with holes and the hex bolt to clamp it on

Its part number VB234AS1


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#134 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted July 14, 2017 - 07:54 AM

 

How much rotation should I expect the fulcrum to have? I was really expecting at least 1/4 of a turn of free play but I am only getting a quarter of that. Maybe an 1/8th of a rotation and that might be pushing it.

 

 

1/8 of a turn sounds about right - I know when I checked the adjustment on mine I loosened the bolt so the arm would turn on the shaft and if I remember correctly there was very little movement (rotation) before it contacted the governor pin.  Looking at your first picture the one of the two arms is down flat due to gravity which has the pin extended so if the governor was stopped in this position you would have to overcome the weight of the one arm to force the pin in which would result in a little bit of resistance as you turned the fulcrum shaft to get it in the correct position with the pin in.  The way I set mine was to clamp a small pair of needle nose vise grips gently on the end of the shaft and turn the shaft counter clockwise so it contacted the pin and held it there while I snugged up the bolt on the arm - make sure you have the carb linkage in the wide open throttle position when you do it.  I have attached a cleaned up pdf of the text that explains the theory of operation and how to adjust the governor.  Hope this helps you fix your problem.

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#135 GhoSt85 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 14, 2017 - 10:35 AM

Awesome. Thanks Stew. I just purchased the gaskets. Now we wait.

 

Hey Brian, thanks. I am going to the store right now to buy the hex bolt but if I am still having problems with the governor arm, I'll get back to you.

 

 

Thanks again guys,

GhoSt


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