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GhoSt 1050 Build/Rebuild


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#76 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted April 19, 2017 - 09:55 AM

If all your heat shielding is in place , I would blame the hot running engine on the ethanol gas. These engines will run hotter on ethanol based gas I have experienced this myself, If you have the option of ethanol free I would suggest using that instead.

 

Its normal for the starter generators to be hot after warming to temperature , since these are sealed units normal temps can reach 250 degrees on the starters.


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#77 GhoSt85 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 20, 2017 - 09:44 PM

Looks good from here though, a lot of work to get to that scenic view. :thumbs:   Thanks for sharing
 
All fluids topped off?

 
Yes sir. New oil on both the engine and transmission. And not a problem, glad you liked it! :D
 

There is a heat shield in there? Bolts between the motor and the dash tower. Redirects the hot air from the motor out to the sides instead of just going back toward the dash- gauge panel area.

 
 

If all your heat shielding is in place , I would blame the hot running engine on the ethanol gas. These engines will run hotter on ethanol based gas I have experienced this myself, If you have the option of ethanol free I would suggest using that instead.
 
Its normal for the starter generators to be hot after warming to temperature , since these are sealed units normal temps can reach 250 degrees on the starters.

 
Looking at the diagram, I actually am missing a heat shield. I looked for some in ebay but only came up for other models. If anybody has one I can buy. It is:
 
Ref. No.    Part No.    Description   

  30         1717399     Heat Shield

 

I could also make one if I can get dimensions and a picture to help me out.

 

There is non ethanol gas available about 45min from me. Should probably get a large gas can so I don't have to make multiple trips.

 

It also looks like I will be needing to rebuild my carb. I've been having trouble with it since I got it running again. Today I decided to start over and adjust it from the start. Closed the main jet and turned it 1 1/4 turns. Turned it on and let it warm up. Started closing the main jet to find out where it bogs out and nothing. Closed the jet completely and it was still running fine. Drove it around with it closed. Then I noticed the fuel leaking from the gasket. So, since I need to take it off, I will try my luck in rebuilding it. Did all TRA-10D come with one type of carb? Or how would I go about figuring out what model I have?

 

Thanks for looking and helping out,

GhoSt


Edited by GhoSt85, April 21, 2017 - 09:24 AM.


#78 GhoSt85 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 20, 2017 - 10:42 PM

Found the carb rebuild kit.

 

GhoSt



#79 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted April 21, 2017 - 07:20 AM

I dont have any extra shields at the moment , they do pop up on ebay from time to time.

 

Carb kit is part #LQ33

 

The gasket kit is # 93C181-329  

 

If the carb has not been serviced or cleaned in years I'd recommend the rebuild kit for a new needle and seat.

Both I stock 


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#80 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted April 21, 2017 - 07:42 AM

Judging by this picture you have heat shield #260 - I do not see the shield (#30)  1717399 that goes on top of the head - maybe that is the one you are missing?

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1050 Heat Sheild In Parts Manual.jpg
  • DSC_0210JPG_zps4vthlrrv.jpg

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#81 Bruce Dorsi ONLINE  

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Posted April 21, 2017 - 08:57 AM

Missing heat shields can cause excess heat.  ...The one on top of the engine directs the flow of cooling air (blown by the flywheel) around the cooling fins cast into the engine block.

 

Incorrect ignition timing can also cause an engine to overheat.  ...Wisconsin engines are very "sensitive" to ignition timing.


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#82 GhoSt85 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 21, 2017 - 10:09 AM



I dont have any extra shields at the moment , they do pop up on ebay from time to time.

 

Carb kit is part #LQ33

 

The gasket kit is # 93C181-329  

 

If the carb has not been serviced or cleaned in years I'd recommend the rebuild kit for a new needle and seat.

Both I stock 

 

Thanks Bolens. I had found it going through some of the gasket kits and reading the description. Thanks for putting the tractor model they are used in. Helped me out :thumbs:

 

From what I have seen, I only have documentation of the engine being rebuilt back in 1999. No parts for the carb were on the list so it might be time to have it serviced.

 

DSC_0091_zps1rqscqpc.jpg

 

DSC_0089_zpsw8ec7gej.jpg

 



Judging by this picture you have heat shield #260 - I do not see the shield (#30)  1717399 that goes on top of the head - maybe that is the one you are missing?

 

Ha, Good eye Chev! Was watching a show when I was posting. Probably what got me mixed up... I think. Ill have to re-search for that heat shield. Thanks again!

 



Missing heat shields can cause excess heat.  ...The one on top of the engine directs the flow of cooling air (blown by the flywheel) around the cooling fins cast into the engine block.

 

Incorrect ignition timing can also cause an engine to overheat.  ...Wisconsin engines are very "sensitive" to ignition timing.

 

When I begin work on the Carb, I'll take a look at the timing. I am also going to need to get a tachometer to set the rpm properly. Do you guys recommenced a not so expensive one?

 

Thanks for looking

GhoSt


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#83 GhoSt85 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 29, 2017 - 08:47 PM

Hey Guys,

 

It's been a while since I updated. Been working long hours so I haven't been able to put much time on the 1050.

 

I've started working on the brakes. Need to sand off the jb weld and rivet the brake pad to it. Also the day before yesterday, I managed to get on the carb. Took it out and cleaned it with air and carb cleaner. It might have been serviced not to long ago because it was pretty nice in there. Everything seems to be in good shape including the gaskets so I reused them. The only thing that was damaged was the brass piece that feeds the two small holes in the opening of the carb but both holes flowed just fine so I left it alone.

 

DSC_0095JPG_zpsef2mnd22.jpg

 

DSC_0096JPG_zpsuuswphsb.jpg

 

DSC_0101JPG_zpss0utzitg.jpg

 

DSC_0107JPG_zpsvuywil58.jpg

 

DSC_0111JPG_zpsokl1spfc.jpg

 

DSC_0120JPG_zpsksdy8hw1.jpg

 

DSC_0116JPG_zpsrbjhy9vi.jpg

 

I put it back together and slapped it back on. I do have a question though. The throttle plate, it turns smoothly but its not free moving. There is some slight resistance. Is that normal?

 

Also, for the life of me, I couldn't not get the tractor to take off on High 3rd. All the others did just fine. If not careful, High 2nd would put me back on my seat and almost give me whiplash lol I am thinking that it could possibly be the governor that is at fault. Maybe it is not keeping up in adjusting the a/f ration when I release the clutch? I have noticed that it has started to leak oil from there too and it might be me because I am not to sure how it is suppose to function but, it also seems slow to adjust when transitioning from load to no load and back to load again.

 

Oh and my clutch came out awesome!!! And the PTO, works beautifully too! :rocker2:

 

 

I also have some more bad news :boo_hoo: Playing with the main jet trying to get it to take off of High 3rd, I heard a really high pitch sound coming from the engine bay. Wasn't sure where it was coming from. Got down and opened the hood to check where it was coming from and it turned off on me. Turned the key to turn it back on and it sounded like metal was rubbing against metal. So I quickly turned it off and pushed it to my shed. Thought I had starved the engine. I haven't used it much since I replaced the oil twice trying to get all the shiny sludge out. Might have leaked it out or maybe it had finally kicked the bucket due to no maintenance or something.

 

Drained the oil and it looked fine. So then I free spun the alt/gen and I'm sure that is where its coming from. I tried to start the engine again and disconnect the gen from the motor to see if it stopped but I couldn't get the gen to spin the motor. Sounded like the batttery was low but even jumping it didn't do much. It started getting pretty hot so I stopped and ruled that to be my problem.

 

Looking through ebay, they are not cheap. Are they rebuildable?

 

Thanks for looking

GhoSt


Edited by GhoSt85, April 29, 2017 - 08:59 PM.

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#84 Bolens800uk OFFLINE  

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Posted April 30, 2017 - 01:31 AM

I need to sort out the carb on my 800 and 1050. Good to see the photos to see what's what.
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#85 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted April 30, 2017 - 07:23 AM

starters are rebuildable at most electrical shops, sounds like a bad bearing in there.


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#86 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted April 30, 2017 - 07:48 AM

 

 

 

I put it back together and slapped it back on. I do have a question though. The throttle plate, it turns smoothly but its not free moving. There is some slight resistance. Is that normal?

 

 

GhoSt

There are two air seals (item #9) that go on the throttle shaft that can cause a slight resistance to movement if memory serves me correctly as they are a snug fit when new.  I have attached the page from the Wisconsin TRA10 Manual which shows them in the parts break down.

Attached Files


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#87 GhoSt85 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 30, 2017 - 09:25 AM

I need to sort out the carb on my 800 and 1050. Good to see the photos to see what's what.

 

Glad it could help you out. I didn't think about taking more pictures in case someone else might have needed them but they are surprisingly simple.

 

starters are rebuildable at most electrical shops, sounds like a bad bearing in there.

 

Awesome. When I get the chance, Ill crack it open and take it from there.

 

There are two air seals (item #9) that go on the throttle shaft that can cause a slight resistance to movement if memory serves me correctly as they are a snug fit when new.  I have attached the page from the Wisconsin TRA10 Manual which shows them in the parts break down.

 

Good to hear it's normal! Thought that I might have to take it apart again to rebuild it but I think I am ok. Now, to the next issue.

 

Thanks again you guys. Greatly appreciate your help!!!

GhoSt


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#88 Bolens800uk OFFLINE  

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Posted April 30, 2017 - 10:31 AM

There are two air seals (item #9) that go on the throttle shaft that can cause a slight resistance to movement if memory serves me correctly as they are a snug fit when new.  I have attached the page from the Wisconsin TRA10 Manual which shows them in the parts break down.


Stew, the blown up parts diagram will be very helpful.

GhoSt85; Photos always help me see thing as I am not a natural mechanic. It will be a great help.
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Posted April 30, 2017 - 10:56 AM

Stew, the blown up parts diagram will be very helpful.

GhoSt85; Photos always help me see thing as I am not a natural mechanic. It will be a great help.

Attached are cleaned up pages for the starter generator and carb parts from the service manual - the carb theory is also explained in them.

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#90 Bolens800uk OFFLINE  

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Posted April 30, 2017 - 01:34 PM

Thanks Stew; much appreciated.
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