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GhoSt 1050 Build/Rebuild


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#61 Dave in NY ONLINE  

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Posted April 10, 2017 - 06:43 AM

You're making great progress! The end result will be well worth it. That broken off or short roll-pin was exactly what was wrong with my 1050. The control lever would make the PTO engage fine it just wouldn't disengage properly. I hadn't gotten deep enough into it [and didn't know any better] to know that something was wrong with it. I have no insight on the steering-clutch shaft for you. Follow what 29chev did. Fortunately my tubers were in reasonable shape on that and I have not as of yet had to tear one of those apart. Maybe heat and oil?


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#62 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted April 10, 2017 - 08:32 AM

I managed to get the gear loose. Weird thing about it is that, even though It has a slot for a key, the pinion doesn't and there are no signs of a key ever being there. Pinion is smooth. It looks like it is only being held in place by the other piece. Which brings me up to my current problem. I have put on PB, fire and press. I can not get that thing to budge. I've searched for a pin or screw and nothing. Any Ideas on how to get it off?

 

Thanks again for looking

GhoSt

If you remove the left side bushing you should have enough room to get the cross shaft out of the mounting plate by sliding the shaft to the left and then drop the right end out of the plate on an angle and sliding the shaft to the right out of the left hole - the hole will be bigger on the inside with the bushing removed and should give you enough wiggle room.  The steering arm and gear can both become happily married to the shaft if things have never been apart since it left the factory - rust is a great bonding agent between steel and cast.  I have never seen any key or pin to hold the arm and gear on the shaft and I have found that you may have to heat the arm and gear and press the shaft out of the gear and arm - unless you are planning on replacing the arm, gear or shaft it is not critical that the pieces move on the shaft - I never did get the shaft out of the arm and gear on my first 1050 as I did not have a press when I did it.  If you do get things apart you can reuse or replace the shaft bushing (s) by pulling them in using a pieces of threaded rod and a socket as I did on my 1053 - http://gardentractor...-project/page-8  .  If you do not get the shaft apart you can install the right bushing, install the shaft back in the mounting plate and then use a piece of pipe over the steering shaft to drive the left bushing in with a hammer - be gentle as you start the bushing into the hole.  Once the shaft, gear and arm are installed and the steering column is back on you can adjust it as per the service manual.


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#63 GhoSt85 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 10, 2017 - 08:33 AM

You're making great progress! The end result will be well worth it. That broken off or short roll-pin was exactly what was wrong with my 1050. The control lever would make the PTO engage fine it just wouldn't disengage properly. I hadn't gotten deep enough into it [and didn't know any better] to know that something was wrong with it. I have no insight on the steering-clutch shaft for you. Follow what 29chev did. Fortunately my tubers were in reasonable shape on that and I have not as of yet had to tear one of those apart. Maybe heat and oil?

 

Hey Dave, thank you. When I was trying to figure out why the lever wasn't returning, I looked under the tractor and saw the spring moving with the shaft. Made no sense to me. Thought it was the weirdest looking spacer. lol Wasn't till you and Chev mention that the handle was suppose to rotate on the shaft did it all make sense.

 

For the steering shaft, I am going to do what Chev did. I've sprayed it with PB and put a torch on it. Thrown it on the press and still no go. I'll just work around it before I end up messing it up.

 

Thanks for looking

GhoSt



#64 Dave in NY ONLINE  

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Posted April 10, 2017 - 07:22 PM

As long as the teeth on the gear are ok, just do the new bushings and call it good. Ought to last many more years.
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#65 GhoSt85 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 12, 2017 - 12:25 AM



If you remove the left side bushing you should have enough room to get the cross shaft out of the mounting plate by sliding the shaft to the left and then drop the right end out of the plate on an angle and sliding the shaft to the right out of the left hole - the hole will be bigger on the inside with the bushing removed and should give you enough wiggle room.  The steering arm and gear can both become happily married to the shaft if things have never been apart since it left the factory - rust is a great bonding agent between steel and cast.  I have never seen any key or pin to hold the arm and gear on the shaft and I have found that you may have to heat the arm and gear and press the shaft out of the gear and arm - unless you are planning on replacing the arm, gear or shaft it is not critical that the pieces move on the shaft - I never did get the shaft out of the arm and gear on my first 1050 as I did not have a press when I did it.  If you do get things apart you can reuse or replace the shaft bushing (s) by pulling them in using a pieces of threaded rod and a socket as I did on my 1053 - http://gardentractor...-project/page-8  .  If you do not get the shaft apart you can install the right bushing, install the shaft back in the mounting plate and then use a piece of pipe over the steering shaft to drive the left bushing in with a hammer - be gentle as you start the bushing into the hole.  Once the shaft, gear and arm are installed and the steering column is back on you can adjust it as per the service manual.

 

 



As long as the teeth on the gear are ok, just do the new bushings and call it good. Ought to last many more years.

 

First, I'd like to thank you guys for your time and patience. I could not have done it without all you guys answering my questions. Even those that, with a little better research, time and patience, I could have figured it out. Sometimes, you don't plan for things to go a certain way and in the rush to get it going, you miss a thing or two or ten. So thank you guys again for your help.

 

And now!!!

 

DSC_0244JPG_zps0npl0ueh.jpg

 

DSC_0247JPG_zpsze9whvyg.jpg

 

DSC_0248JPG_zpscinjybks.jpg

Did the best I could to salvage the tag but sadly this was the best I could do. Still, I think I am going to keep it there and spray clear coat on it to protect it.

 

DSC_0252JPG_zpsju1gbymq.jpg

Right side bushing in.

 

DSC_0255JPG_zpsomjd8lke.jpg

Used the old brass bushings to press in the new ones to make sure I don't damage it.

 

DSC_0258JPG_zpstnbxhkbw.jpg

Left side in :thumbs:

 

And now, to start putting it back together again :dancingbanana:

 

Thanks for looking

GhoSt


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#66 GhoSt85 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 12, 2017 - 12:35 AM

Oh oh oh guys, guess what I just found!!!!!

 

DSC_0260_zpsxlonzrvj.jpg

 

:rocker2:

 

I was like man, I remember seeing the engine serial number somewhere. I wonder if the tractor serial number would be there and sure enough!!!! HAHAHAHA!!!!... Now, are there any vendors that can replicate that tag?


Edited by GhoSt85, April 12, 2017 - 12:36 AM.

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#67 Dave in NY ONLINE  

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Posted April 12, 2017 - 06:51 AM

Nice to see that you are making progress. These tractors aren't really that complicated. It's just that you have to know how and what to do to get them apart and back together successfully. Having a bit of mechanical ability and proper tools goes a long way on that too. Think of this as your learning session. You will have your next Bolens tractor apart,fixed and like new in no time. There will be another,right? I picked up a lot of ideas and info. following 29chev's thread on his 1053. I would probably have figured out things eventually, but it was nice to follow along and see exactly how and what was done. Very soon you will have a sturdy,reliable GT that should serve you for many years. Next will be to get the mowing deck in shape? I like mowing with mine.
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#68 GhoSt85 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 12, 2017 - 11:43 PM

Well, I've been looking for another one. Hopefully a different model but tube frames seems to be for the most part non existent in this part of the US. Ill see a large frame from time to time but well above my budget so I just stare at it and dream lol Also, right now I am debating on jumping on a complete JD210 that was offered to me for less then $100 with no deck so I can stash it for a future restore but... I don't know if I want to go green. Kinda want another TF.

 

And the deck, oh yea! Its next. I can't wait to get that thing working to test it out.  :firejumper: 


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#69 Dave in NY ONLINE  

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Posted April 13, 2017 - 06:23 AM

If the JD is a good deal grab it. You can always pass it along [swap?] to someone else. A lot of guys flip the Lts and Gts. I have flipped a few different things over the years. I don't go looking for things on purpose to do that, but if an amazing deal falls in my lap, why not. In the last 3 years I have passed along 2 tube tractors and 2 LFs. Didn't make hardly anything on any of it. Some are in it for the $$,I just do it for the fun. LFs are a nice tractor. A very capable machine. I use a 1477 for snow plowing, moving trailers, moving the wood-splitter,etc. Love it! Sorry,I'm kind of getting off topic here. The hydrostatic tube frame tractors are nice too. Hopefully your deck won't need a lot to get it going.
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#70 GhoSt85 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 13, 2017 - 11:36 PM

No, its alright going off topic. I just found a 1476 in Dallas but they are asking more then I am willing to pay. I kinda want projects to get them cheaper lol Anyways, here is the link if anybody is interested: https://dallas.craig...6085701995.html

 

I did stumble upon a box blade that I would like to get. Ill contact the seller tomorrow to get more info on it. The mower might take a bit. I am going to strip the paint because it was painted a light guacamole green and you can see the dark green in a lot of areas. Also, the bottom has a lot of grass so I have to scrape it off. Would it be a good idea to spray truck bed liner under it to protect it from rusting? Or what do you guys recommend? Also, have you guys used that water hose connection to clean the underside of the deck without any bearing issues.

 

And as far as updates. I don't have anything right now. Last two days I have been rebuilding a playscape for my brother that he bought from craigslist. If it was me, I probably would have looked for something else but then end result came out good. I'll snap a picture of it tomorrow.

 

Also, tomorrow Ill put some time on tractor. Hopefully I'll get the parts I ordered from Bolens then. I think USPS messed up in shipping because it showed it was out for delivery in my town to me on Wednesday and now that update vanished and it is showing its in Austin. Crossing my fingers.

 

Thanks for looking

GhoSt


Edited by GhoSt85, April 13, 2017 - 11:37 PM.

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#71 Newpaws493 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 14, 2017 - 06:08 AM

That 1476 looks like somewhat a project (from here), maybe since he got the model # wrong, he typo'ed price too.. :D  Noticed another Bolens hiding in shed behind it in pic#2...who knows. Glad you're making strides on your 1st. Good job :thumbs: 


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#72 Dave in NY ONLINE  

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Posted April 14, 2017 - 06:57 AM

I tried the hose clean out port, worked so-so. Anytime I looked up under the deck there was always grass built up around the thing that wouldn't come off even after using the water hose. My experience anyhow. Talk to the people about the LF. Maybe there are attachments that would go with it that they have forgotten about buried somewhere in the barn or garage. Ask about the other tractor lurking in the background. Like the Pickers do, "Hey, if you throw that one in I'll give you the $600". They might have priced way high to start with and would take much less. Going to need different rear tires for sure. If it started and ran without many mechanical issues I would offer 1/2 of their asking price. How bad do you want it, are LFs hard to find in your area,how far must you travel to look at it ? Just my thoughts.


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#73 GhoSt85 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 18, 2017 - 09:16 PM



That 1476 looks like somewhat a project (from here), maybe since he got the model # wrong, he typo'ed price too.. :D  Noticed another Bolens hiding in shed behind it in pic#2...who knows. Glad you're making strides on your 1st. Good job :thumbs:

 

Thank you and Good eye, didn't even noticed the bolens back there. Haven't contacted the guy. Its a bit of a drive to his neck of the woods and I've been a little busy to be able to check them out.

 



I tried the hose clean out port, worked so-so. Anytime I looked up under the deck there was always grass built up around the thing that wouldn't come off even after using the water hose. My experience anyhow. Talk to the people about the LF. Maybe there are attachments that would go with it that they have forgotten about buried somewhere in the barn or garage. Ask about the other tractor lurking in the background. Like the Pickers do, "Hey, if you throw that one in I'll give you the $600". They might have priced way high to start with and would take much less. Going to need different rear tires for sure. If it started and ran without many mechanical issues I would offer 1/2 of their asking price. How bad do you want it, are LFs hard to find in your area,how far must you travel to look at it ? Just my thoughts.

 

I've kept an eye on it but unfortunately I haven't had the time to be able to go so I haven't contacted him.

Also, sorry guys. No pictures of the playscape like I said I would. Didn't realize the camera wasn't set up right and the pictures came out dark and blue.

 

Anyways, not much of an update since I forgot to take pictures but I got her running again!!!

 

DSC_0069a_zps5ql61hot.jpg

Not finished but usable. I did a mistake though and I've been trying to figure out how to fix it. I forgot to put the washer that goes into the steering shaft/pinion. I am thinking in cutting a washer , bending it, slide it through the shaft, bending it back and tack weld it if I need too.

 

Another thing. I feel like the engine is running way to hot. Only after like 15mins of usage the hood, dash (From the base to the top that holds the gauge) and gen/starter were to hot to touch. I don't remember it being this way. The only thing different is I put in 89 octane gas instead of the 93. Would that cause it to run hotter? I didn't hear any detonation or anything other than it being a little difficult to start once its warmed up.

 

Thanks for looking

GhoSt


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#74 Newpaws493 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 18, 2017 - 10:19 PM

Looks good from here though, a lot of work to get to that scenic view. :thumbs:   Thanks for sharing

 

All fluids topped off?


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#75 Dave in NY ONLINE  

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Posted April 19, 2017 - 07:43 AM

There is a heat shield in there? Bolts between the motor and the dash tower. Redirects the hot air from the motor out to the sides instead of just going back toward the dash- gauge panel area.


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