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GhoSt 1050 Build/Rebuild


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#46 Newpaws493 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 05, 2017 - 07:17 PM

keep losin my place, while caught up in the high quality pics :thumbs: 


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#47 GhoSt85 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 05, 2017 - 09:56 PM

keep losin my place, while caught up in the high quality pics :thumbs:

 

Thank you! :D

 

Another small update.

 

DSC_0198JPG_zpsap2bepch.jpg

 

 

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Anybody know what the original purpose of that box under the seat was ment to be for? It has squared side holes.

 

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The PTO lever was hard to move so I kept spraying lubricant and moving it around. Now it moves with ease.

 

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Taking off the bolts that hold the brake rod and pad, one of them broke.  :wallbanging: Think I am going to replace them with stainless steel.

 

And last but not least for the night, the brake itself

DSC_0203JPG_zpsvdz2x5fb.jpg

 

DSC_0204JPG_zpss8tmz9vi.jpg

 

Looks like Ill need the whole brake assembly instead of just the pad. Oh well.

 

Thanks for looking

GhoSt


Edited by GhoSt85, April 05, 2017 - 09:57 PM.

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#48 Dave in NY OFFLINE  

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Posted April 05, 2017 - 10:30 PM

The box under the seat is the tool box,handy place to put your hitch pins. Drill the old rivets out of your brake pad, clean it up real good and use JB weld to build up the worn spot. Grind or file it flat again, re-drill the rivet holes and all you need is the new pad and brass rivets. Did it on my 1050, worn about like yours. That was about 3 years ago and its still working just fine. You are going to have a really nice tractor when you are done.


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#49 Newpaws493 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 05, 2017 - 11:10 PM

:ditto:


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#50 GhoSt85 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 06, 2017 - 08:49 AM

The box under the seat is the tool box,handy place to put your hitch pins. Drill the old rivets out of your brake pad, clean it up real good and use JB weld to build up the worn spot. Grind or file it flat again, re-drill the rivet holes and all you need is the new pad and brass rivets. Did it on my 1050, worn about like yours. That was about 3 years ago and its still working just fine. You are going to have a really nice tractor when you are done.

 

Awesome! Thanks for the tip! I will definitely try that and report back.

 

Must admit, I am getting deeper in repairs than I wanted to originally, glad I am doing it now though. This also gives me a chance to repaint some parts because it looks like the whole body was spray painted with a rusty brown primer. I bought some Rustoleum leather brown that I used to paint the clutch parts and I really like how it looks so I am going to use that on these parts.

 

Thanks for looking and helping out!

GhoSt


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#51 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 06, 2017 - 08:54 AM

I would say repair whats worn while you have things apart that way you will then get years of trouble free service.

Your doing a great job bringing back a classic machine


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#52 Dave in NY OFFLINE  

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Posted April 06, 2017 - 09:00 PM

I used the Rustoleum leather brown on my 1050 recently and I am happy with it. Not exactly correct, but close enough. A full on restoration needs the metallic brown paint.
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#53 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted April 07, 2017 - 08:18 AM

Looks like you are making good progress - one suggestion I will make is make sure the pivot in front of the PTO tension spring moves freely on the shaft as they can seize on the shaft.  The hole where the handle spring goes in should be open to the shaft and a few drops of oil should keep it loose - since you mentioned the PTO handle was hard to move the pivot may be stuck as well.


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#54 GhoSt85 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 08, 2017 - 08:26 PM



I would say repair whats worn while you have things apart that way you will then get years of trouble free service.

Your doing a great job bringing back a classic machine

 

Thank you! That is what I have been telling myself. Better now that I have it apart then later when I need it the most. I feel much better about it now that I see it moving along. Ill be making some purchases from you soon.

 



I used the Rustoleum leather brown on my 1050 recently and I am happy with it. Not exactly correct, but close enough. A full on restoration needs the metallic brown paint.

 

Yea, I saw the difference compared to the panel that holds the gauge. It is the only part left of the tractor to still hold its original color, but like you said, close enough. Not really going for a restore, more of a "getting it working good while looking good" type of thing.  and it does look good lol

 



Looks like you are making good progress - one suggestion I will make is make sure the pivot in front of the PTO tension spring moves freely on the shaft as they can seize on the shaft.  The hole where the handle spring goes in should be open to the shaft and a few drops of oil should keep it loose - since you mentioned the PTO handle was hard to move the pivot may be stuck as well.

 

Are you talking about that hole?

DSC_0230JPG_zpsbftqwltk.jpg

 

Does that part suppose to pivot? I was under the impression that the spring was acting as a spacer to keep the shaft from having front to back play. So that spring is suppose to return the handle back to the off position? Right now, when I move the handle to active the pto, the whole shaft that has the pulley rotates and so does the back end including the spring. So the spring isn't really doing anything but acting as a spacer. I do have a spring at the front that is suppose to return the handle back though.

 

DSC_0043_LI_zpsoxutmpww.jpg

 

 

I am also having trouble with this part:

DSC_0216JPG_zpskcfozfwa.jpg

 

For the life of me, I can not figure out how to remove the shaft so I can replace the brass bushings. Just about ready to clean it up and slap it back on lol

 

And now for my small update. Have you have ever started working  on something and saw something else that needed working, then something else pops up and you get to that as well. Next thing you know, you look back and say... what the hell just happened?... That was me the other day lol

 

BAM!

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I blame the rust!

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On a positive note... They are all pretty now

DSC_0228JPG_zpsw2rahjiq.jpg

 

Thanks again for looking!

GhoSt


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#55 Dave in NY OFFLINE  

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Posted April 08, 2017 - 10:56 PM

Yes the piece that your middle finger is touching [red circle] should be free to turn on the shaft. Soak it with penetrant and get freed up. Clamp the shaft in a vise and try turning the piece with a wrench. There is 2 roll pins there too. Mine had a broken off short one and the spring couldn't return the pro idler to the off position. I had also put a cheater return spring out by the idler pulley. Never did work exactly right. Fixed that when I had it all apart like you did. Check out 29chev and his 1053 project. He has all that explained in very good detail with lots of pics.
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#56 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted April 09, 2017 - 07:42 AM

As Dave in NY said the hole you have circled should be through to the shaft - here is a link to the PTO arm disassembly I did on my 1053 (the PTO set up is the same)  - http://gardentractor...-project/page-7  starting at post #96.  It is hard to tell from your pictures but I would say the roll pin that goes through the shaft at the front of the spring is either broken or missing on your tractor - it is what makes the idler pulley move away from the belts in the disengaged position.  Attached are pictures of the PTO pivot and spring from my 1050 which may be easier to see how the spring and roll pins interact.

Attached Thumbnails

  • PTO Lever 1.jpg
  • PTO Lever 2.jpg
  • PTO Lever 3.jpg

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#57 GhoSt85 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 09, 2017 - 08:52 PM

Awesome guys!

I would have never figured it out myself. Took some persuasion but I got it off. Had to soak it in PB, then torch it twice, more PB and two wrenches did the trick. The roll pin was there but half of it was missing. Sorry for the blurry picture.

 

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Got it off and cleaned out. Should move smoothly now.

 

I am still having a hard time with this part

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I managed to get the gear loose. Weird thing about it is that, even though It has a slot for a key, the pinion doesn't and there are no signs of a key ever being there. Pinion is smooth. It looks like it is only being held in place by the other piece. Which brings me up to my current problem. I have put on PB, fire and press. I can not get that thing to budge. I've searched for a pin or screw and nothing. Any Ideas on how to get it off?

 

Thanks again for looking

GhoSt


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#58 Newpaws493 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 09, 2017 - 10:24 PM

... Check out 29chev and his 1053 project. He has all that explained in very good detail with lots of pics.

 

You won't be wasting time by getting into the thread referenced to you by the guys...Soup to Nuts.

Good Luck

 

http://gardentractor...-project/page-6


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#59 GhoSt85 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 09, 2017 - 10:57 PM

You won't be wasting time by getting into the thread referenced to you by the guys...Soup to Nuts.

Good Luck

 

http://gardentractor...-project/page-6

 

Hey Newpaw, thank you! I went through that thread last night but I must have been to tired and either missed it or completely forgot about it. I will go back to that thread and reread it with more care tomorrow.

 

Thank you again!



#60 Newpaws493 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 09, 2017 - 11:09 PM

No one night read for me. That's a thorough guide map, IMO. I'm leanin on it. Careful not to get lost in the rush to the finish line.

 

Good Luck


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