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Painting Tutorial?


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#16 backwoods OFFLINE  

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Posted March 06, 2017 - 07:51 AM

Thanks cat i was hoping somebody would chime in that has one 



#17 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted March 06, 2017 - 08:00 AM

I have this HF set.Here's one of them, have both sizes. Alice was painted with them.


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#18 LilysDad ONLINE  

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Posted March 06, 2017 - 08:47 AM

There's more to a painting how-to than it seems; sanding? what grit? Mixing paint? mineral spirits? naptha? acetone?


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#19 backwoods OFFLINE  

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Posted March 06, 2017 - 09:42 AM

the grit sand paper depends on what the surface looks like in my tool box i have from 36-3000 grit sand paper , as far as mixing the paint most suppliers can give you a print out of the mix ratio for a given product im going to attach a link that will give mix ratio as well as a suggested air pressure at the gun those are based off the standard of 90psi at your compressor, there sometimes called p sheets but most are known as product data sheets. The link also list the recommended reducer thinner an the surface to spray it over.

 

 

 

 

 http://www.martinsenour-autopaint.com/documents/pds/9489.pdf


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#20 LilysDad ONLINE  

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Posted March 06, 2017 - 10:16 AM

I'm posting to the topic as I think of things to show how broad this topic can be.

 

I'm working on a project that involves MDF particle board with multi colored paint strips on it. I went to Farm & Fleet to buy some painter's tape. I wanted fine borders without bleed under. They had some blue tape by the name of Blue Dolphine that claimed no bleed under. Well, it wouldn't stick to the MDF worth a darn! I've gone back to the store and the sales girl says a brand they carry called Frogtape is a popular seller. I bought some and we will see.


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#21 backwoods OFFLINE  

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Posted March 06, 2017 - 10:22 AM

is the mdf raw or does it have paint on it?  If it hasnt been coated prior to taping most tapes wont stick due to the condition of the surface



#22 backwoods OFFLINE  

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Posted March 06, 2017 - 11:00 AM

Just happened to think of something before you even plan any body work or paint work makes sure you thoroughly wash an degrease the project, then soap should be just that soap only nothing that adds shine or wax when i doubt use dish soap without lotion


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#23 tater195 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 06, 2017 - 11:33 AM

On the HF gun thing.. I have used the $20 HF guns and the $60 auto parts store brands. I cant tell a nickle's worth of difference between the two. How they compare to a good Binks, I have no idea. I have an old siphon feed that I have not used for 15 years. I might dig that out and try to do a side by side comparison. The trickiest part of the whole deal is getting the gun tuned right. Sometimes you have to mess with it for a while to find what works best. I use the Vansickle tractor paint (around $30/gal) and they dont recommend thinning and no more than 10% if you do. I find it to be on the thick side and have to turn the air pressure WAY up to get it to spray good.... like double. I think the recommend 30 psi on the gun, I have had it up as far as 60 to get the mix right. Setting the gun is a lot like setting a carb. Too lean and you will get a dull finish, too rich and you will get orange peel. Then you throw in a 3rd variable, paint viscosity, and there is no "standard setting" that you can dial in every time and have it work perfect. It will change color to color, day to day.


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#24 LilysDad ONLINE  

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Posted March 06, 2017 - 01:00 PM

is the mdf raw or does it have paint on it?  If it hasnt been coated prior to taping most tapes wont stick due to the condition of the surface

The 3/4" X 2' X4' craft piece I bought had a white surface on both sides. I couldn't tell if it was paint or some kind of vinyl coating. I wiped it down with min. spirits.



#25 Kster526 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 06, 2017 - 01:08 PM

Like everyone has said many techniques and many ways but the prep is the single most important part . I have not held a gun in my hands in many years but have gotten very good results from Mother Deeres cans although her price is getting out of hand.

Temperature in your painting area and of the paint really makes a difference also. With spray cans I have found warming them really helps with the final result and gives better atomization of the paint.

Just my 2 sense everyone will develop and go with what works for them although similar to everyone else it will still vary depending on ability and what they know. Experience and practice along with people like you all with advice are the best way to learn. :D



#26 LilysDad ONLINE  

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Posted March 06, 2017 - 04:28 PM

I tried the hvlp guns and I didn't adapt to them very well. Of course, I had no tutelage with one. I'm comfortable with a HF touch up gun for GT size projects.


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#27 backwoods OFFLINE  

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Posted March 06, 2017 - 08:42 PM

The 3/4" X 2' X4' craft piece I bought had a white surface on both sides. I couldn't tell if it was paint or some kind of vinyl coating. I wiped it down with min. spirits.



After wiping it down did you scuff the surface with anything?

#28 LilysDad ONLINE  

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Posted March 06, 2017 - 09:22 PM

No, I was afraid that it would leave a fuzzy surface.



#29 backwoods OFFLINE  

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Posted March 07, 2017 - 09:21 PM

The best way to break the surface on something like that would be around 600 grit dry,as far as tape if you have a automotive paint store they should either stock or be able to get what is called fine line I can take a picture for reference if need be but after a line of that go to 1/2 masking then 3/4 or 1" then to masking paper.
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#30 64fleetside OFFLINE  

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Posted March 07, 2017 - 09:39 PM

I've got a HF HVLP gun prolly 15 years old, painted everything with it from trucks to desks. Still using it.




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