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1965 Ford gas tractor.


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#16 alleyyooper OFFLINE  

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Posted March 18, 2017 - 11:27 AM

Well jumped the gun when I said it would run. only if the key is held in the start position or I place a wire on the wrong peg and the starter kicks.

 

Lost here, don't know where to go now. It has earned a trip down the road once I do get it running. My Massey's are so much simpler  and so is my D 17 Allis.

 

 

:D   Al


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#17 MiCarl ONLINE  

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Posted March 18, 2017 - 11:59 AM

Where in Michigan are you?  I'm pretty decent at electrical stuff.  If you're not too far I'll come hold a flash light for you.


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#18 jimmy G ONLINE  

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Posted March 18, 2017 - 12:50 PM

follow the coil wire back to the switch,check continuity between connector on switch to connector on coil(unplugged at switch),really thinking bad connection here by switch,most of the circuit has to be good or it wouldn't run on start,look for crossovers and two leg switch posts

Edited by jimmy G, March 18, 2017 - 12:57 PM.


#19 alleyyooper OFFLINE  

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Posted March 18, 2017 - 04:53 PM

I've checked continuity all the way back to the switch It is good. Also to see if I had it to ground and I don't so there is no short.

 

I made a living at one time doing electrical trouble shooting for GM cars/trucks. 

 

 

 

 

:D   Al



#20 alleyyooper OFFLINE  

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Posted March 19, 2017 - 04:49 PM

Well I decided I had noting to loose this morning so I got a heaver wire a 12ga instead of 16ga, got rid of the toggle switch too hooked to Plus side of coil.

Turned on the switch and hooked the other end right to the battery had s[parks at the battery but that was all and the wire didn't start melting insulation off like before.

Turned the key to start and it started spitted and sputtered for a bit then ran. I left the wire hooked up that way and ran the tractor around a while even skidded some wood to the cut pile.

 

New ignition switch and I did gain there as the fuel gauge now works.

 

I had did a continuity check of the wire from the coil to the ignition switch and it tested fine. But I am going to run a totally new wire from the coil back to a connector just in front of the fuel tank and see if that works. If not I will add a section from the connector to the switch so I will then have all new wire. 

 

:D   Al



#21 Cvans OFFLINE  

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Posted March 19, 2017 - 05:02 PM

Sounds like your on the way to solving the problem. Amazing how a simple jumper wire can bypass a multitude of problems. 



#22 alleyyooper OFFLINE  

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Posted March 22, 2017 - 07:18 AM

Got the new correct colored wire yesterday. So today I am going to solder in a new section from the connector not shown in the wiring diagram to the coil and see if that will work. that is the easy part. If I have to go from that connector back to the switch it is going to be harder. 

 

I had it started and bladed the drive way ruts yesterday before I went to town to buy wire.

 

Still For Sale soon.

 

:D   Al


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#23 alleyyooper OFFLINE  

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Posted Today, 10:53 AM

Well the saga continues and need to know if I am going in the right direction. Friday I bought a spool of wire so if need be I could run a whole new wire from the ignition switch to the coil. Rained all day Saturday so I could do nothing since I do not have a shop space big enough for this Ford.  This morning is isn't clear but it isn't raining so I want to start by opening up the harness where the coil wire goes into the main harness and find a single male female barrel connector, Un plug it and take into my shop and put it on the bench and strip off the conduit to find a pink wire with writing on it in a 3 strand coil(for lack of a better word for folded wire.) Can't read what is says so I take it into my man cave where I have one of those magnifying lamps. Wire says resistor do not cut or splice I unfolded it and it measures 49 inches long. I got to thinking my old Ford truck doesn't have a ballast resistor either, so I grab a old motors manual and look up Coil resistor and there is was if you have trouble between the ignition switch and the engine will not stay running,   Check the resistor wire between the ignition switch and the coil.

 

  Wish that would have been in the tractor service manual. Would have saved me some hair. I need to know what size resistor I need to put in the circuit since I have no Idea where to get a wire. I measured it in the 2K scale of my meter which read .002. So if my thinking is correct I need a 2 thousand OHM resistor.

 

Thanks

:D  Al



#24 jimmy G ONLINE  

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Posted Today, 11:27 AM

Get a resistor coil

#25 MiCarl ONLINE  

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Posted Today, 11:29 AM

.002 on a 2K scale is 2 ohms.



#26 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted Today, 11:40 AM

I have a 1972 Ford service manual I could look at if you think that would be of help. Or msybe something here . http://www.ntractorc...als/manuals.htm

#27 jimmy G ONLINE  

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Posted Today, 11:56 AM

All the old dodges had a inline ballast to coil,would work here too
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