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MORE tips on front tire replacement


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#1 jscam OFFLINE  

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Posted June 08, 2011 - 06:42 AM

I have to replace the fronts on my Massey...........I've seen reference to some of you cutting them off.........what did you find was the best tool / procedure?

Next, I've also seen reference to having the wheels primed and ready to paint when you mount the new tires, THEN paint the wheels. That makes sense to me but, what was the trick to getting the wheels painted then? I've tried masking tape on tires before and did'nt have much luck getting it to stick. What's the little detail I've missed?

#2 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted June 08, 2011 - 06:47 AM

On tires that are really stuck on. I have to cut the tire in half and then get to the wire in the beads and cut them off. Once the wire is cut the tire comes right off.

Usually I paint the whole rim and then put the tire on. If I do get a few nicks in them I just touch them up the best I can.

#3 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted June 08, 2011 - 06:55 AM

I have to replace the fronts on my Massey...........I've seen reference to some of you cutting them off.........what did you find was the best tool / procedure?

Next, I've also seen reference to having the wheels primed and ready to paint when you mount the new tires, THEN paint the wheels. That makes sense to me but, what was the trick to getting the wheels painted then? I've tried masking tape on tires before and did'nt have much luck getting it to stick. What's the little detail I've missed?


Some wheels, I have primed and painted the inside. Then install the tires and made paper templates to slide between the tire and wheel to paint the outside. Make it two pieces of paper that overlap some and fit to bottom of the bead. Works pretty good at keeping paint off the tire. And you don't scar the new paint putting the tires on.

#4 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted June 08, 2011 - 06:57 AM

If you wash the tire really well, with soapy water, the green masking tape should stick.
Once I tried useing vasoline, and smeared the tire with that instead of tape.(I was out of tape)
Worked, but took alot of washing to get off, because it dried too as the paint did.

#5 Gtractor ONLINE  

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Posted June 08, 2011 - 07:06 AM

For the outside of the rims I just leave the bead broken down, cram old rags between the rim and tire and spray the rim. When the paint is dry I remove the rags and inflate.
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#6 KIRO-1 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 08, 2011 - 07:09 AM

I also wash the tire real good using Zep car wash and water(the Zep rinses well) then I use 3m painters tape to mask the tire. Works pretty well.

#7 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted June 08, 2011 - 08:24 AM

I also wash the tire real good using Zep car wash and water(the Zep rinses well) then I use 3m painters tape to mask the tire. Works pretty well.


That is about the same as I do. I actually usually use paint thinner to wipe the tire and the rims down before painting to get rid of any oily residue and get the tape to stick.

#8 FirefyterEmt OFFLINE  

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Posted June 08, 2011 - 09:12 AM

Once the tires are removed, the rims sandblasted and primed like this.
Posted Image

I then paint the inside of the rim and mount the tire. This WILL scratch the paint on the edge no matter how carefull you are. This is why I only paint them after the tire is mounted. Why put so much work into the rims, only to finish with chipped up paint that has been touched up?

Posted Image


Once mounted, I wait to air them up until the painting is done. This means you will not have to work around the tire bead as much, and allows you to sand out any edge chips, spot prime, and paint far under the bead. Now masking is rather easy, take a large piece of cardboard and cut it in half. Now overlap them by about 3 or 4 inches. Draw out a hole about 1" smaller than the edge of the rim. (If you do this before you mount the tire, you can use the rim to draw out this circle. Just use it as a guide to make another ring 1" smaller. The cardboard is slipped between the rim and the tire for painting. You could make 4, I just re-use the same one.

Posted Image

Now, if tubeless, snake a string through the valve hole, remove the valve core and run the string through the new valve stem. Tie a know under the bottom of the valve stem leaving about a foot behind it. Now you can toss the valve stem into the rim and tire and just pull it into the hole. The extra string should remain outside of the tire so the string and know can just be pulled back out.


PS, These photos are from my narrowed front wheel build over on MTF => http://www.mytractor...ad.php?t=106927

Edited by FirefyterEmt, June 08, 2011 - 09:57 AM.

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#9 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted June 08, 2011 - 09:43 AM

Some wheels, I have primed and painted the inside. Then install the tires and made paper templates to slide between the tire and wheel to paint the outside. Make it two pieces of paper that overlap some and fit to bottom of the bead. Works pretty good at keeping paint off the tire. And you don't scar the new paint putting the tires on.


I use a dull log splitting wedge to break the beads, I have a tire iron to get it started, then put the wedge in a give it a whack with big hammer.
Kenny, Thats the way I do it with card board cut outs between the tire and wheel. I duct tape the halves together. after the paint is dry, I then blow up the tire

#10 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted June 08, 2011 - 10:13 AM

I use a dull log splitting wedge to break the beads, I have a tire iron to get it started, then put the wedge in a give it a whack with big hammer.
Kenny, Thats the way I do it with card board cut outs between the tire and wheel. I duct tape the halves together. after the paint is dry, I then blow up the tire


How much dynomite does it take to blow up a tire?:smile1:

Seriously though, there are lots of good tips here. One thing I am careful with is making sure the bead area of the rim is smooth and clean so the tire won't slowly loose it's air. This can be an issue when the tire is rusted to the rim. On the fronts of my MF8 the bead was a mess. I made sure it was cleaned up before I installed the new tire and 18months later it's still holding air.
Why do the fronts always seem to rot out first? Rear tires seem to last longer and will hold air even when severely cracked on the outside. Moisture can get into the tire when it's inflated which is another good reason to put a dryer on your compressor.

Edited by olcowhand, June 08, 2011 - 05:06 PM.
fixed the quote


#11 FirefyterEmt OFFLINE  

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Posted June 08, 2011 - 11:33 AM

PS... I forgot to mention, after sandblasting the rim, I also fill any pitts on the inner bead with body filler. It does not have to be scratch free and perfect, just enough to fill up the pits before I prime them. If aired up while the paint is soft, it helps to seal the bead too.

#12 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted June 08, 2011 - 07:03 PM

I use a dull log splitting wedge to break the beads, I have a tire iron to get it started, then put the wedge in a give it a whack with big hammer.
Kenny, Thats the way I do it with card board cut outs between the tire and wheel. I duct tape the halves together. after the paint is dry, I then blow up the tire


I use a wood block same idea as yours, it works.
tire bead brecker 003.jpg

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  • tire bead brecker 001.jpg
  • tire bead brecker 002.jpg

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#13 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted June 09, 2011 - 05:02 AM

FirefyterEmt, we think alike, other than I use paper. I have a large roll of 4' wide paper to I came across. Great for protecting things I don't want paint on.

#14 jscam OFFLINE  

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Posted June 10, 2011 - 12:54 PM

Thanks to all............lots of good info here. I hadnt thought about putting something between the wheel and the tire BEFORE airing them up............duh!




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