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1456 H14 PTO shaft not used in 25 years frozen in place will not engage


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#106 logmillingman OFFLINE  

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Posted June 05, 2017 - 06:45 PM

Hey 29 Chev, I noticed that you did not paint the bolts on the tractor, what kind of metal are they made of, will they rust? I am getting ready to purchase all new nuts and bolts for the H14 I usually get them at TSC you buy them by weight.

#107 nsengineer OFFLINE  

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Posted June 05, 2017 - 07:36 PM

If you buy a grade 5 or 8 they are usually coated with a coating.  Unless things were assembled as one unit before paint most bolts are not painted.


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#108 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted June 06, 2017 - 08:13 AM

Hey 29 Chev, I noticed that you did not paint the bolts on the tractor, what kind of metal are they made of, will they rust? I am getting ready to purchase all new nuts and bolts for the H14 I usually get them at TSC you buy them by weight.

Some of the old bolts just had surface rust on the heads so I wire brushed the heads and then painted them with a silver metallic paint - some were installed and then painted by hand with a small brush and others were painted first and then installed after they were dry - http://gardentractor...-project/page-8 - check out picture 9 in post 116 and picture 9 in post 119.  I used grade 5 bolts for the ones I replaced - they are described in the catalog as "Bright Electroplated With Chromate Finish".  They will probably rust eventually if left exposed to the elements but by that time I will probably not be worrying about them.


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#109 logmillingman OFFLINE  

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Posted June 06, 2017 - 08:52 AM

Thanks again 29 Chev, the fasteners from Tractor Supply have a coating or plating. The grade 5 are a green color it is some kind of coating that holds up real well as long as they are not exposed to a lot of clorides, and the grade 8 are cadmium plated. So I will pre paint them before I install them and then touch them up as necessary.

nsengineer commented that sub assemblies that are painted after being assembled all the fasteners are painted, and those that are assembled after paint the fasteners are not painted. this is true but then those fasteners tend to rust and I don't like rust, it makes a mess of everything and ruins all the hard work that was put into the project.

#110 logmillingman OFFLINE  

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Posted June 19, 2017 - 07:14 PM

I finally got some time to get back on the H14 project, now that the dash tower is all rebuilt I turned my attention to completing the seat fender.

 

Previously I had finished welding the reinforcement metal where the seat bolts through the fender.

 

So I stripped all the paint off the fender and finished straightening out all the metal around the edges of the fender, the skirts in the foot wells, and the flat area where the PTO control lever is.

 

The fender was in pretty bad shape, it had sustained a lot of body damage from years of use, so like the hood it needed a lot of reshaping.

 

I used various tools to perform the repairs you will actually see a copper coated steel rod in some of the pictures, it is actually a piece of electrical grounding rod. I used it to straighten the radius along the edge of the fender and to provide support as I reshaped and straightened the 1/4 " to 1/8" flat edge along the fender line which helps to provide rigidity to the metal on the fender. 

 

Here are some pictures of the work.

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#111 logmillingman OFFLINE  

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Posted June 25, 2017 - 09:07 PM

Had some time this afternoon to work some more on the H14 fender.

 

Previously I had welded the reinforcement metal where the seat bolts to the top of the fender. The metal was so fatigued along the slotted seat adjustment area that when I tried to weld the new metal to it it just disintegrated. So I had to build up and fill in with weld. I flipped the fender over and filled what was left of the slots in with weld so I could come back later and cut new slots in the fender, it isn't pretty but it was the best I was able to do with it.

 

The four holes that bolt the fender to the lower support above the rear axle were also cracked and fatigued, so I mig welded the cracks and made up two 16 gauge metal reinforcing plates to help stiffen the attaching point of the fender to the rear axle bracket.

 

I centered the metal over the holes and I drilled  two holes in each piece, then I bolted the metal in place on the fender to hold it tight in place as I welded them in place.

 

I tack welded the metal pieces to the fender and then used the angle grinder to clean up the tack welds and then finished up with a disk sander. I drilled out the holes in the fender to 3/8" to provide extra strength and support when the fender is bolted down to the fender support bracket.     

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#112 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted June 26, 2017 - 06:48 AM

That should help.


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#113 Sawdust ONLINE  

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Posted June 26, 2017 - 08:46 AM

That fender pan must have held water for a long time. Mine was beat up in between the tail lights. It looked like they played dodgem cars in reverse. Like you I used all kinds of objects to get it back to shape. It's looking real good. When I done mine I think my biggest joy was spraying the hood. It looked like a Star Wars Storm Trooper sitting in the shop. Enjoying your project.
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#114 logmillingman OFFLINE  

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Posted June 26, 2017 - 11:33 AM

Yes Sawdust the fender is all pitted from standing water, there are no drain holes in the pan I thought about adding some but I figure I will just be diligent to keep it out of the rain and store it under cover preferably in the garage.

 

I have a lot of bondo work to do on the fender, oh what fun, I can't wait to get paint on it!

 

I noticed on your avatar you have replaced the seat on your H16 do you mind if I ask what kind of seat you selected and where you got it from, and now that you have it would you buy it again or get a different one.

 

Mine is original and the vinyl is cracking and coming apart.


Edited by logmillingman, June 26, 2017 - 11:38 AM.

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#115 Sawdust ONLINE  

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Posted June 28, 2017 - 10:10 AM

Yes Sawdust the fender is all pitted from standing water, there are no drain holes in the pan I thought about adding some but I figure I will just be diligent to keep it out of the rain and store it under cover preferably in the garage.

 

I have a lot of bondo work to do on the fender, oh what fun, I can't wait to get paint on it!

 

I noticed on your avatar you have replaced the seat on your H16 do you mind if I ask what kind of seat you selected and where you got it from, and now that you have it would you buy it again or get a different one.

 

Mine is original and the vinyl is cracking and coming apart.

Actually the seat on my H16 was on there when I bought it. Its a Cub Cadet that I painted with some vinyl paint because it had some white over spray from the PO. Since this seat has the Cub logo on the back of the seat I will be putting it on my 1250 soon when I get the engine rebuilt. The seat in my avatar is on my Mtd990. I got it on eBay about two years ago. I really like it. I paid around $90. including shipping.I'll buy another one like it for the H16. I found one like it this morning but cost more now.

Here is the link of my seat go down to post #192. http://gardentractor...mtd-990/page-13

Here is the link of the one I ordered. http://www.ebay.com/...sd=400646018065


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#116 Sawdust ONLINE  

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Posted June 28, 2017 - 10:15 AM

Actually the seat on my H16 was on there when I bought it. Its a Cub Cadet that I painted with some vinyl paint because it had some white over spray from the PO. Since this seat has the Cub logo on the back of the seat I will be putting it on my 1250 soon when I get the engine rebuilt. The seat in my avatar is on my Mtd990. I got it on eBay about two years ago. I really like it. I paid around $90. including shipping.I'll buy another one like it for the H16. I found one like it this morning but cost more now.

Here is the link of my seat go down to post #192. http://gardentractor...mtd-990/page-13

Here is the link of the one I ordered. http://www.ebay.com/...sd=400646018065

Here also is the link to the seat on my H16 go down to post #48. http://gardentractor...lens-h16/page-4


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#117 logmillingman OFFLINE  

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Posted July 08, 2017 - 04:48 PM

Finally had  the time to get back on the H14 project, had a brake line blow on my truck at the height proportioning valve for the rear brakes. I had to custom make the combination metal tubing and rubber hose sections, NLA from the dealer. Put it together from parts I got from the auto parts store.

 

Didn't get much done today but decided to post it anyway since it has been at least a week.

 

I drilled out the seat slots in the fender and used the jig saw and a flat file to finish it up.

 

I am ready to start the body filler so I needed to deal with the rust that I could not grind or sand out because of the metal being really pitted from rust. I decided to use Naval Jelly to remove the rust so it will be ready for the body filler.

 

I will not have time to start the body filler today so I will wait to apply the Naval Jelly so I can do it all in one day.

 

Here are some pictures of the progress.

  

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Edited by logmillingman, July 08, 2017 - 05:06 PM.

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