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1456 H14 PTO shaft not used in 25 years frozen in place will not engage


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#61 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted April 27, 2017 - 06:05 AM

I hope you let the rust reformer dry for 24 hrs before putting the finish coat on. It may peel back off if not!


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#62 logmillingman OFFLINE  

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Posted April 27, 2017 - 06:55 AM

Thanks KennyP, that's what I thought too but when I read the instructions on the back of the rust-oleum can of Automotive paint it said there is no need to wait for the primer to cure you can spray the finish coat right over the primer without waiting! That surprised me when I read that so I did what they said and it worked fine.


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#63 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted April 27, 2017 - 07:07 AM

Okay! I have the tongue of my 4-wheel wagon peeling. The rust reformer is still on there but the finish coat is coming off. Thought it might be I didn't wait long enough. May be another issue.


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#64 logmillingman OFFLINE  

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Posted April 27, 2017 - 07:30 AM

I am going to call Rust-oleums tech department today and ask them directly about that because it just said Rust-oleum primer but did not specify which Rust-oleum primer, I will let you know what they say KennyP.


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#65 logmillingman OFFLINE  

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Posted April 27, 2017 - 09:26 PM

KennyP,

I called Rust-oleum tech support today and you were right to be concerned about top coating the Rust Reformer before 24 hours. They said that Rust Reformer is not actually a primer it is a rust converter. It does need to cure for 24 hours before top coating, and that is what the can says.

He said I was lucky that the Automotive Enamel did not react with the Rust Reformer, He said since there was no bubbling up that It will be fine. I think because I did four thin coats that the solvents in the enamel flashed off quickly and did not lift the rust reformer. If I would have sprayed on a heavy coat it may have reactivated the rust reformer.

 

The Rust-oleum automotive Enamel does say that it can be sprayed right after the primer is applied, so it is referring actually to rust-oleum primer and I would say to be safe the automotive primer only even though it does not specify that on the automotive enamel can.

 

I should have gone with the directions on the rust reformer can, Thanks again for your good advise on this KennyP! 


Edited by logmillingman, April 27, 2017 - 09:29 PM.

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#66 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted April 28, 2017 - 06:08 AM

Thanks for contacting them and getting the info. Since seeing the paint lifting on the wagon tongue, I've been putting self-etching primer in between. Haven't seen any other issues using the reformer. It does stop rust!


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#67 logmillingman OFFLINE  

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Posted April 28, 2017 - 07:13 AM

That is the smart way of making sure the finish paint will not peel, take everything step by step and don't rush the process.

 

I have a utility trailer that I use almost every day behind my truck and when I do repairs on it I just clean it up on the area I am working on and spray that area with Rust reformer and just leave it that way. It stops the rust and preserves the metal, rust reformer does not have to be top coated and it give the metal a flat black finish.

 

Today my Dad will finish machining the PTO hydro pulley sleeve so that the PTO assembly will be ready to be put back together. I have to do the metal repairs on the dash tower, paint that and repair the steering wheel and paint the steering column.


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#68 Newpaws493 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 28, 2017 - 11:51 AM

Those using cans and shop @depot should be able to have mgr. quote the case price. If they seem surprised coax em with the $26 quote,might save ya some $$$. I'm gearing toward my spray rig going forward as I can't abide with the easy chipping and all after all the work. But that's me, also, I found using one of these PISTOL-GRIP add-ons helped technique and application. shouldn't cost alot.

 

pg2.jpg

 


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#69 logmillingman OFFLINE  

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Posted April 28, 2017 - 09:20 PM

Thanks for the info Newpaws493 The H14 is getting a can spray job because that is my every day working tractor and I am not doing a full restoration on it, I do have a HVLP cap sprayer rig that I probably will use when I do the restorations on my Bolen 1000, 1050, and 1256. I will have to do all the research to find the proper colors for each tractor.


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#70 logmillingman OFFLINE  

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Posted April 29, 2017 - 06:34 PM

Yesterday my Dad machined the end of the hydro pulley sleeve bracket, while in the lathe the sleeve was machined to 2 5/16" in length I then took a hack saw and cut both sides of the bracket tapped it with a hammer back and forth and snapped it off the sleeve, now all I have to do is grind the two bottom edges of the bracket to give them a nice finished look. Once that is done it will be ready to be painted and assembled onto the PTO shaft.

 

Here are some pictures of the new hydro sleeve bracket.

 

 

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#71 blackjackjakexxix ONLINE  

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Posted May 02, 2017 - 07:42 AM

Great progress,looking very good
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#72 logmillingman OFFLINE  

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Posted May 02, 2017 - 11:38 AM

Thanks Rick, Every time I see you avatar it makes me want to start restoring my Bolens 1000!



#73 logmillingman OFFLINE  

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Posted May 03, 2017 - 06:09 PM

Yesterday I repaired the steering wheel on the H14. I used the same technique that 29 Chev used on his 1053 steering wheel. Both steering wheels are of the same design so I took some time to review his post on page 7.

 

I used steel wool to prep the plastic on the wheel and then cleaned it with lacquer thinner. I used blue tape to tape along the edges of the cracks so that I would not have a big cleanup removing the excess JB Weld.

 

Next I mixed the JB weld and filled the cracks in the steering wheel, I chose to use the fast set version of JB Weld.

 

I let the JB Weld cure for at least 4 hours like the instructions call for. Then I used a wire wheel on a cordless drill to grind down the excess material. I used the tape as a guide to keep from removing to much material and gouging out the plastic on the steering wheel. Once I removed the material it exposed the blue tape underneath the JB Weld so I knew I was close to being flush with the plastic wheel. This method worked pretty well and I only had a few areas where I gouged the plastic as I was getting used to the technique.

 

Here are some pictures of the prep work on the steering wheel.

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#74 logmillingman OFFLINE  

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Posted May 03, 2017 - 06:53 PM

This is an exciting day, I received the steering wheel cap from Rick at Ricks Bolens Parts, Rick was the only one that I know of that has the red FMC cap for the center of the steering wheel for my late model 1456 H14 tractor.

Thanks again Rick! You will see it in the pictures of this post.

 

Today I painted the steering wheel on the H14.

 

First I protected the plastic part of the wheel and sprayed the steering shaft with Rust Reformer, then after the Rust Reformer dried I masked off the shaft and sprayed the bottom of the steering wheel with Rust-oleum Universal Paint & Primer in One. This product is good for spraying on wood, metal, plastic, and masonry, I got it for spraying the plastic on the steering wheel.

 

After the paint dried long enough to be handled I drilled a 3/4" hole in a piece of scrap particle board and slid the steering shaft into the hole. It fit snug so the steering wheel stood up straight in the board.

 

I then sprayed the top and sides of the steering wheel, I did about four coats allowing the paint to dry about fifteen minutes in between coats.  

 

Here are the pictures of the painted steering wheel with the new Red FMC center cap from Rick.

 

 

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#75 blackjackjakexxix ONLINE  

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Posted May 03, 2017 - 08:37 PM

Glad I could help


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