Thanks for sharing the pictures - nice repair. It is great that your dad can still help you with the repairs - enjoy all the father / son time you can.
1456 H14 PTO shaft not used in 25 years frozen in place will not engage
Posted April 07, 2017 - 06:23 AM
thank you, yes we love to work and do things together, when he was a teenager during WW11 he worked at the torpedo factory in Newport, Rhode island as a machinist's apprentice before enlisting in the Navy in 1944.
I try to involve him in as many things as I can, it keeps him thinking, creating, contributing, and living.
The nice thing about using the 7/16" washer is that it fits snug on the 1/2" shaft but still can move if it has to, this way it can float and move with the hydro sleeve bracket but can still provide the thrust support to keep everything in line properly because of the large surface area it provides. So as things wear they will tend to wear more evenly, any way this is my theory we will see over time how it works out.
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Posted April 10, 2017 - 10:57 AM
I have a question for you guy's? I just removed the drive, and PTO belts off of my 1225 Bolens parts tractor to install on the H14 because they are in like new condition.
While I was dry fitting them to check for clearance I noticed for the first time that the front bearing for the hydro drive pulley that sits in the u frame between the tube frame has a little play in it and I don't want to put everything back together and have that fail once I start using the tractor again.
What's the best way that you know of to remove the pulley and replace the bearing?
Thanks for your input on this.
Posted April 10, 2017 - 11:26 AM
The pulley is secured by two set screws and a square keyway, the bearing is a self aligning bearing that has a locking collar, you loosen the setscrew on the collar and twist it away from the bearing allowing you to remove it off the shaft.
Depending on the rust factor I would spray it with some penetrating oil .
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Posted April 10, 2017 - 11:38 AM
Thanks Bolens 1000, How hard is it to get the pulley off the front of the shaft so I can get to the bearing behind it? do I need a good heavy duty puller?
Posted April 10, 2017 - 11:42 AM
I would suggest soaking it for a day or so before attempting, get the set screws out and fill the holes with penetrating oil.
Being the sheave is cast iron you dont want to be too tough on it
- logmillingman said thank you
Posted April 16, 2017 - 08:16 PM
Had some time this afternoon to rebuild the hood on the H14. It was in bad shape the hinge area had extensive damage from being bent out of shape, collision dents to the front grille surround, to large stress cracks at the bottom grille surround.
At the point that I took the beginning pictures I had already bent back the severe forward bend that was in the bottom of the grille surround. If you would have put a straight edge down the side of the grille surround on the front edge the bottom of the surround was protruding forward almost one inch.
Here are some pictures of the before and after work on the H14 hood.
Edited by logmillingman, April 17, 2017 - 07:13 AM.
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Posted April 18, 2017 - 11:01 AM
First of all ,,, You have done a wonderful job,, Not only in your'e work,, but as a kinda tutorial and the pics helped alot . The work you are doing are mostly out of sight when looking at the tractor,, seat pan,,battery shelf and others to see in there..
Now my ??? I would like to adjust the lift / lower arm on my 1556 . I'm not sure butt the PO , I think bent the arm to make it work . I've read how to adjust it,, but it cannot be done without taking certain pans or batt. tray out .. A'm I correct thinking this . Just trying to see it is near impossible So I was wondering if you would have any pics. of that assembly and where to try and get at the adjustments and what I will have to take apart to get at it.. Thanks in Advance.......... sodi
- logmillingman said thank you
Posted April 18, 2017 - 04:25 PM
Thank you very much for your comments Sodisr, I am hoping that this project will help others who are having similar problems with their tractors. If I am understanding you correctly you are talking about the attachment lift/lower lever that protrudes out of the left bottom of the dash tower. If you look at post #10 you will see a picture of the lever assembly that sits under the battery tray. If you need to access the lever to remove it for repair, remove the battery, then remove the four large pan head screws that hold the battery tray in the dash tower, you should now be able to remove the battery tray. This will give you a good view of the lifting/lowering lever. if you need to remove it for repair take the two machine screws out of the hydraulic valve, the valve is bolted to the left side of the dash tower, this should allow you to lift that valve up to gain a better access to the lever itself.
The lever itself is bent in two 90 degree turns so that it comes through the dash tower horizontally. If the previous owner bent it you need to discover why it could be that the nylon pivot that is fastened to the left side of the dash tower with two machine screws is maybe broken or worn out. you will see it when you remove the battery tray.
I hope this helps Sodisr let me know if you need any other info, or if you are referring to something else.
Edited by logmillingman, April 19, 2017 - 07:04 AM.
- Sawdust said thank you
Posted April 22, 2017 - 08:43 AM
I thought I would do a quick post this morning, I had to machine a new PTO sleeve and bracket for the H14. When I tried to weld the old bracket onto the new sleeve that my Dad had machined for me I ruined the end of it. When I tried to drill out the weld that had rolled over into the 9/16" bore hole the bit grabbed the weld and snapped the piece into.
Since I modified the design to use the thrust washer the sleeve is shorter so there is not enough area on the sleeve to weld it. So I got two new 6" long pieces of mild steel and my Dad machined part of the 3/4" rod and I made the new pulley bracket. I drilled out a 3/4" hole in the bracket and left both pieces long, this way it could be welded without destroying the sleeve or the bracket.
I then took it down to the local welding shop and they TIG welded the two pieces together. Now my Dad will chuck it in the lathe and part it and machine the two ends of the sleeve to the proper length and I will have a new PTO bracket.
If you notice the pieces are welded only half way around, that is because the lower half of the pulley bracket will now need to be cut off at the half way point of the 3/4" sleeve, there is only a small amount of clearance between the tube frame and the PTO shaft so the bracket cannot extend past the width of the sleeve to maintain clearance.
If you look carefully you will see that the 9/16" bore hole in the 3/4" steel rod is a little off center, this is because the welding shop gave me a piece of hot rolled steel rod, I did not specify between hot and cold rolled because I did not know to ask. They told me when I brought it in to have it welded that If I wanted to bore out the rod I needed to use cold rolled steel, hot rolled steel is not perfectly round where cold rolled is. So I learned something new today. I thought I would pass that info on to you guys. I'm sure some of you already know this, but it will help those that don't.
Here are some pictures of the new welded pulley sleeve bracket.
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Posted April 25, 2017 - 07:23 PM
Today I worked on the hood of the H14, After having to reshape the lower surround of the hood and welding all the stress cracks and torn metal I decided to reinforce the lower hinge by adding a 1/4" x 1" x 111/2" piece of steel under the bottom of the hood surround to provide solid support across the entire hinge area. The hope is this will keep this area from cracking from fatigue in the future by sandwiching the hood between the hinge and the reinforcing steel under it.
I drilled out the 1/4" steel and then cleaned, primed and painted the 1/4" steel reinforcing bar and the hood hinge.
I removed the decals from the hood with a propane torch applying heat to the underside of the metal hood.
Here are some pictures.
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Posted April 25, 2017 - 08:41 PM
millingman, as the area on hood that you repaired is IMO, a famous stress point, I guess far too many owner/users don't support the hood properly (it's better to remove hood, IMO) , once the hood 'rod' is free, and hood falls loose...etc.,
Anyway your bolt holes 'seem' wide, as some do.Maybe it's just the pics. Will this stress point issue come back ? The area where hinge attaches to body varies on models also, my 900 bolts down on body vs. to front of it, so what I'm askin is., the sandwich is: hinge-hood-new 1/4" piece right? In pic #3. And you do have hood support rod still ? I dunno just thoughts while lookin on.
Thanks for takin us along, keep up the good work!
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Posted April 26, 2017 - 12:25 PM
Thanks Newpaws493 for your input, The bolt holes match the width of the hinge and what I have done by installing the lower support bar is move the stress point out to the area of the hood where the surround begins to curve at the corners. There is more strength in this area because of the different shape that the metal has, I will monitor it and see how it does when I am using the tractor.
The hinge mounts on the inside of the lower bottom edge of the surround of the hood, and the support bar sits under the lower edge of the surround of the hood.
So it is hinge hood then support bar, so the hood is clamped in between the hinge and the support bar.
The H14 has a lanyard (cable) that connects with nuts and bolts to the top of the engine and to the inside of the top part of the hood to keep the hood from falling to far forward when the hood is opened.
The hood hinge bolts to the front of the axle support.
I am hoping I answered all of your questions Newpaws493, thanks for asking!
- Newpaws493 said thank you
Posted April 26, 2017 - 01:36 PM
Yep answered note for note. I had to refab half hinge for 900 last week, it was in pieces. So I was comparing to the siblings here and noting differences. Got stuck in my head I guess. 650 and 1050 hoods bolt to front as yours does 900 is the odd duck.
- logmillingman said thank you
Posted April 26, 2017 - 08:30 PM
After fabricating the hinge reinforcing bar and removing the hood decals I Had a chance to work on preparing the hood for finish paint.
I sanded down a lot of the exterior of the hood, but mainly focused on the inside of the hood. I wire wheeled, and used steel wool, and sanded the inside of the hood. Then I wiped down the inside of the hood with paint thinner.
I primed the inside of the hood with two coats of rust-oleum Rust Reformer, Then sprayed four thin coats of Rust-oleum white automotive gloss enamel.
Here are the pictures of the inside of the hood.
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