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1456 H14 PTO shaft not used in 25 years frozen in place will not engage


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#31 logmillingman ONLINE  

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Posted March 06, 2017 - 10:22 PM

Ok Guys, here is what I am going to do with the hydro filter on the H14 tractor. I am going to remove the spin on oil filter assembly from my Bolens 1225 hydro tractor and install it on the H14 the same way as on the Bolens 1256 hydro tractor. the 1256 and the H14 have the same fender support bracket so all I have to do is cut out the bracket the way the 1256 is cut out and I will be able to do the change over.

 

the first pictures are of the Bolens 1225 which is a parts tractor. The only thing left to the tractor is the tube frame rear axle tires and hydraulic system. In these pictures you can see the spin on filter next to the rear tire.

 

the other pictures are of my Bolens 1256, in these pictures you will see how the filter assembly is installed inside the right side of the fender support. The fender support is cut out so the filter assembly can be installed. When servicing the filter can be removed and replaced from underneath the fender support which means I don't have to remove the seat and fender once a year when it is time to do a filter service change.

 

Like Bob told me from Bob's Lawn and Garden, they should have never switched from a spin on to an in line filter on the Bolens H14 and H16 hydro's. It made it harder to service and now the filter has been discontinued at bthe worst or not readily available at the least. 

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#32 logmillingman ONLINE  

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Posted March 22, 2017 - 08:26 PM

Progress has been shut down on the H14 project because winter has returned to New England for the past two weeks, so I have not posted anything, finally on Tuesday the 21st of March the weather got up to 50 degrees and sunny so I was able to prime the tractor with Rust-oleum Rust Reformer.

 

I am posting some pictures of the H14 before and after priming

 

Also all the repair parts that I have ordered have arrive,

 

I am posting pictures of the parts for:

the steering column

the PTO shaft

 

and I have painted the muffler and heat shield with Rust-oleum high heat ultra semi gloss black

 

The next step is to finish paint the chassis of the tractor and build up the worn areas on the steering shaft and the PTO shaft with some weld.

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#33 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted March 22, 2017 - 11:36 PM

Glad the temps have allowed you to do something!


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#34 logmillingman ONLINE  

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Posted March 29, 2017 - 08:06 PM

Tomorrow March 30th the weather will be warm enough to finish paint the chassis of the H14. So while I have been waiting to paint I started working on cleaning up and doing the body work on the seat fender. After removing the seat I noticed that there was a lot of metal fatigue, rust and cracked and missing metal where the seat bolts to the fender.

 

The sheet metal was bent and creased from running into things for forty years, so I did some straightening with a hammer and a dolly block.The skirt area of the fender where the foot pedals are was really bent up to the point that the metal was stretched so I will need to use the torch and heat dime size red hot dots one at a time then cool them quickly with a wet cold rag, this will shrink the metal again in these areas so I can finish working the metal in these areas.

 

I have taken some 16 gauge metal and made up some pieces to reinforce the areas that are cracked and fatigued. I will drill a series of holes in the metal pieces so I can in affect spot weld the patches in place. then I will tack weld them around the edges. This will strengthen the whole area of the seat mount.

 

I am posting some pictures of the fender.

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#35 logmillingman ONLINE  

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Posted March 30, 2017 - 09:33 PM

Thursday 30th of March I was able to finish paint the chassis of the H14. next step is to do the welding on the PTO shaft, steering wheel shaft, and the fender.

 

Here are the pictures of the chassis painting.

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#36 logmillingman ONLINE  

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Posted April 01, 2017 - 08:28 AM

Yesterday I had a chance to put some filler weld on the steering shaft where it contacts the lower support in the steering column. As 29 Chev said in a earlier post, That grease fitting in the lower end of the steering column gets overlooked when people grease the tractor, unless you read the maintenance section of the manual you don't know it is there.

 

I am posting the before and after pictures of the welding, I should have gotten closer taking the pictures hope you can see the weld area ok.

 

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#37 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted April 01, 2017 - 08:57 AM

The welded area in the second picture looks larger than the bottom of the shaft where the gear fits on - could just be an optical illusion.  Just concerned that it may not fit through the top of the steering column as it may be too large.


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#38 logmillingman ONLINE  

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Posted April 01, 2017 - 09:58 AM

yeah no you are correct 29 Chev, I still need to turn that area down in the lathe and redress the bottom area of the shaft. What you are seeing in the picture is where I knocked the weld down with the grinding wheel. I will post the pictures of the finished steering shaft after I dress it on the lathe next week.

 

Later today I will post pictures of the PTO shaft assembly now that I have cleaned it all up and dry fitted the new bushing .

 

I hope to have time this weekend to tack weld the reinforcing metal in place on the bottom of the seat area of the fender.


Edited by logmillingman, April 01, 2017 - 10:01 AM.

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#39 logmillingman ONLINE  

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Posted April 01, 2017 - 06:28 PM

This is an exciting day, the H14 decal package has arrived!

 

Since I decided to repaint the H14 in its original color scheme I wanted to give it some new decals.

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#40 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted April 01, 2017 - 06:31 PM

The decals look nice - may I ask where you got them from?


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#41 logmillingman ONLINE  

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Posted April 01, 2017 - 08:55 PM

I got them from Maple Hunter, they are nice looking decals but are not completely accurate, they have a few mistakes like the FMC on the side of the hood is suppose to be white on the H14 not red, the sticker that sits flat right in front of the seat on top of the fender says to use type F instead of type A automatic transmission fluid in the hydro, and on the instrument panel sticker at the bottom it is supposed to say manufactured by FMC corporation outdoor power equipment division instead of manufactured by FMC Bolens Corporation.

 

Since this is my work tractor and  I am not doing a complete restoration I went with Maple Hunter, the decals were half the cost of Sam's Bolens. If you are going to do a accurate full restoration I would use Sam's decals from what I have heard they are extremely accurate to the originals and are of high quality.

 

If I fully restore the H14 in the future I will use Sam's but for what I am doing on the H14 the Maple Hunter decals are nicely done, a good value, they were great to do business with, and they arrived in just two days. They will look great once the tractor is all done and only someone who really knows what they are looking at could ever tell they are not completely accurate. I hope this helps. 


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#42 logmillingman ONLINE  

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Posted April 02, 2017 - 07:57 PM

I cleaned up the PTO assembly and dry fitted the bushings.

 

After a close inspection I noticed the PTO shaft has a lot of wear in several different places on the 1/2" steel shaft, and the hydro pulley bracket that slips over the PTO shaft has an egg shaped wear area on the pulley end of the bracket.

 

I have decided to replace the PTO shaft with a new piece of 1/2" steel rod. I will drill out the roll pin and drift pin holes and then weld the pulley bracket on the end of it.

 

I will make a new hydro pulley bracket by taking a piece of 3/4" steel rod putting it in the lathe and boring it out to 9/16" and then weld the hydro pulley flat section of the bracket to it. By doing this the nylon bushings will have a good and true flat surface to ride on and the PTO assembly will be in a like new condition, it should last a good number of years when I am done with it.

 

I am posting some pictures.

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#43 Sawdust ONLINE  

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Posted April 02, 2017 - 10:40 PM

Enjoying your project. I missed most if it but caught up now. In glad you got the help you needed. I recently went to only repair my H16 but like you had to do some repairs & ended up rebuilding most of it. On your spin on oil filter I used a Fram TG16. This is the cross reference site I used.
http://www.oilfilter...sreference.com/

I wanted to use Maple Hunter as well but I have the earlier version that had the Husky dog decal. Like you mentioned they are very expensive. I might pull the trigger on them later to keep it somewhat original because of it having the dog. Your efforts will be rewarding once you start using it. It's comforting knowing you done things right. Will be watching.
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#44 logmillingman ONLINE  

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Posted April 03, 2017 - 09:28 AM

Thanks Sawdust,

 

I remember you helped me early on when the pulley tensioning spring broke when I first got the H14 running and did not have a clue to what was going on.

 

Well as you can see I've come along way since then, and learning something new everyday thanks to all you guys here on GT Talk, I don't know if I would have taken on this project if I didn't know I had all your support and knowledge available to me. That's what helped me get on the right path with this project. I love restoring old things back to their original condition and the satisfaction one gets when the job is done and done well.

 

 I am glad you are enjoying the project I have tried to document everything in the hopes that it will be beneficial to other people who are either having trouble with there tractors or are thinking of doing a rebuild, but maybe feel like it is a can of worms with to many unanswered questions. Keep checking in and keep rebuilding these old tractors, they have earned the right to be saved for the future enjoyment of many, they are a great example of American engineering. Once they go to the scrap yard they are gone forever.

 

 As you have the opportunity save as many as you can!


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#45 logmillingman ONLINE  

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Posted April 06, 2017 - 06:45 PM

Yesterday April 5th I was able to finish making the sleeve that goes over the PTO shaft for the hydro pulley bracket, and machine the weld on the steering shaft. My Dad did all the machining work on the lathe he is 90 years old this year.

 

The sleeve was machined on the lathe from a piece of 3/4" steel rod, the rod was bored out to 9/16" to provide the proper clearance  for .the 1/2" PTO shaft and the nylon bushings

 

After a close inspection of the PTO assembly I noticed that the pulley end of the hydro bracket had worn well into the end of the nylon bushing on the PTO support bracket. So when I machined the new sleeve I shortened it so I could install a 7/16" steel flat washer and still maintain the proper spacing of the idler pulleys for driving the hydro and the PTO drive shaft. What this washer will do is provide a larger area for the bushings to ride on, this should provide good thrust support as the hydro bracket is under load conditions.

 

After making the sleeve the steering shaft was put into the end of the lathe and the welded areas and the area where the steering pinion gear go's was dressed down. I left the welded area a half a thousandth over size to compensate for a little wear in the lower support of the steering column.

 

Now all that is left to do to complete the PTO assembly is to remove the two pulley brackets and re weld them on the new PTO shaft and the hydro sleeve.

 

I have decided to drill out and install grease fittings in the hydro pulley sleeve and the PTO pivot block to keep these areas lubricated so the don't seize up again.

 

 

I am posting some pictures.

 

 

 

 

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