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1456 H14 PTO shaft not used in 25 years frozen in place will not engage


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#16 logmillingman ONLINE  

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Posted February 28, 2017 - 10:37 PM

Thanks 29 Chev for your time and your comments they provide great information and are an encouragement to me in a repair situation that has gotten way bigger then I wanted it to be. I will continue to provide pictures and details as the repair moves forward, hopefully this repair will provide  great info to others who have similar problems with their Bolens tractors.


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#17 logmillingman ONLINE  

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Posted March 01, 2017 - 09:57 PM

Today I stopped by my friends house here in town who is a blacksmith and we worked together to remove the pivot block and the steering pinion gear.

 

He used a different method for removing the pivot. Because he was using an oxygen acetylene torch he told me you do not cool it after heating the piece. He heated the pivot to a high temperature and  using two crescent wrenches, the pivot loosened up right away and turned easily, then we just tapped it off the shaft.  

 

he used the same method on the steering pinion gear he heated the gear to a high temperture and drove it out with a punch. He then counted so many seconds then told me to put the gear in a can of water he had standing by, He told me this is a method blacksmiths use so the metal will not loose its hardness.

 

I have posted some pictures so you can see the process.

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#18 logmillingman ONLINE  

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Posted March 01, 2017 - 10:09 PM

29 Chev if you look at the last picture you will see that the shaft is severely worn where it passes through the bottom of the steering column cast steel support, this is from not being grease all those years. I plan on building that area up with some weld and then turning it in the lathe to resurface that worn area.

 

I will be sending so pictures of the H14 after I degrease and clean it and I have started reconditioning the used muffler and shield I got from Ricks Bolens parts.


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#19 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted March 02, 2017 - 06:25 AM

Glad you got it off!


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#20 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted March 02, 2017 - 08:58 AM

Glad you were able to get it off - I use a MAP gas torch which doesn't develop as much heat as oxy/acc but usually does the job eventually - heat in the right spots can accomplish a lot.  Interesting to see that much wear on the lower shaft but lack of grease plus moisture and battery acid can cause a lot of pitting and wear over many years of use.  Look forward to seeing pictures as you work away.  At least now you can get see the light at the end of the tunnel.   

 

I noticed that there is a bit of grooving where the pto tension spring sits behind the pivot - you may wish to build that area up and turn it back down as well.  I usually put a bit of grease in that area as well as where the pivot turns to keep rust from forming in those areas.


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#21 logmillingman ONLINE  

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Posted March 02, 2017 - 03:58 PM

I'm feeling better about the whole rebuild, like I just crossed over the hump. Thanks for the advice 29 Chev on filling the grooves it the PTO shaft with some weld, do you coat the shaft with grease before putting the pivot and tensioning spring on, or just press it into the spring and pivot area after assembly?

 

I am ordering parts tomorrow so I should be able to start assembling the steering and PTO by the end of next week. I will prime and paint everything in the mean time. I will provide pictures as I go along.

 

I am sending pictures of the reconditioned muffler and heat shield, I have painted the heat shield with some high heat black paint and have applied the first coat of the thermo steel compound to the small holes that were in the metal of the muffler. I need to apply a second coat than I can sand it down and paint the muffler with high heat paint.

 

Tomorrow I will send the before and after pictures of the tractor cleaning.

 

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#22 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted March 02, 2017 - 04:37 PM

I'm feeling better about the whole rebuild, like I just crossed over the hump. Thanks for the advice 29 Chev on filling the grooves it the PTO shaft with some weld, do you coat the shaft with grease before putting the pivot and tensioning spring on, or just press it into the spring and pivot area after assembly?

 

 

I would suggest a thin layer of grease before assembly.  If you can access the pivot after everything is together you could drill a small hole in the pivot to put a few drops of oil in it once in a while - on my 1050 the hole where the spring to keep tension on the handle goes right through to the shaft and I put a few drops of oil on the spring occasionally so it can run down into the hole to lubricate the pivot. 


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#23 logmillingman ONLINE  

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Posted March 03, 2017 - 08:42 AM

Thanks 29Chev, I will apply some grease when I put it back together. I had the same Idea about drilling a oil hole in the pivot and add some light machinery oil to it on a regular basis so it would not seize up again. I also thought about creating an access cover in the fender so I can access that area of the PTO shaft without having to remove the fender.  

 

Also I had an idea of boring out and pressing an oil lite bronze bushing into the lower steering column support leaving it short to the top of the support which would create a reservoir holding area to apply oil at regular intervals to the oil lite bushing so it can slowly absorb into the bronze bushing and that would keep the shaft lubricated. Or I could bore it and press in a steel bushing and drill it for the grease fitting to be reused. The shaft probably will not turn enough to release the oil in the bushing for proper lubrication it needs a little heat of friction to release the oil. Let me know your thoughts on this, I have time I am not at that stage yet in the rebuild.

 

Here are some before and after pictures of degreasing the tractor. The other items are after they were cleaned. Now everything is ready to be prepped, primed, and painted before assembly can take place.

 

Tomorrow I will post some pictures about some questions I have on the H14 tractor seat, fender and the hydro oil filter.

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#24 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted March 03, 2017 - 09:01 AM

"Also I had an idea of boring out and pressing an oil lite bronze bushing into the lower steering column support leaving it short to the top of the support which would create a reservoir holding area to apply oil at regular intervals to the oil lite bushing so it can slowly absorb into the bronze bushing and that would keep the shaft lubricated. Or I could bore it and press in a steel bushing and drill it for the grease fitting to be reused. The shaft probably will not turn enough to release the oil in the bushing for proper lubrication it needs a little heat of friction to release the oil."

 

I would just make a steel bushing and remember to grease it once in a while if it was me - the steering shaft does not turn very fast so a little bit of grease will last quite a while - I would also put a bit of grease on the teeth on the lower gear and steering gear teeth when you put things back together. 

 

It takes time to clean up all the parts but it will be worth it and that section of the tractor should be good to go for a long time once you have it fixed.  One other suggestion would be to check the splines on the PTO pulley and shaft as they have been known to get worn there - just a suggestion.


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#25 logmillingman ONLINE  

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Posted March 04, 2017 - 10:05 PM

I inspected The PTO shaft and the front spline has a lot of rust and some pitting on the surface from not being used for so many years, the rear spline was more protected being under the engine I may end up using the PTO on my 1225 parts tractor which is in good condition. The manual shows these rubber boots that go over the splines when they are not being used.

 

I have a list of questions that I have on my original H14 seat, fender and the hydro oil filter, I would like to hear from everyone if you have any ideas on these items.

 

1. H14 seat:

 

The vinyl on the seat has become brittle and is cracking and has separated in some areas from the foam on the seat. Is there a seat tape that could be applied to the vinyl, or something else that could be done to stabilize the seat for now.

 

2. fender:

 

I want to create a access panel in the fender at the rear of the PTO shaft so that it can be serviced without removing the fender. The access cover would be fastened with four sheet metal screws. Any suggestions?

 

2a. Fender:

 

I want to prep, prime, and paint the fender in the original white color for the H14, right now it is painted in a dark green color. I have not been able to locate a white color for the H14, any suggestions?

 

3. In line hydro oil filter:

 

I have a late model H14 which uses the rear differential as the hydro oil reservoir. Older models use a separate oil reservoir with a spin on oil filter. The problem is that the filter is not readily available, I may be able to get it from New Holland at over $100.00. The thought I had was to take the spin on filter assembly from the 1225 parts tractor and fit it on the H14 eliminating the in line filter. Any suggestions?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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#26 logmillingman ONLINE  

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Posted March 05, 2017 - 07:46 AM

Hey guys, I made a mistake on my last post, the PTO spline that is rusted and pitted is the rear facing one not the front one.



#27 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted March 05, 2017 - 08:53 AM

Hey guys, I made a mistake on my last post, the PTO spline that is rusted and pitted is the rear facing one not the front one.

I have found that the front and rear splines that are exposed can usually be cleaned up with the help of a wire brush, file and an old hacksaw blade by hand - my concern was the pulley area as per the attached pictures which show how they can become worn there after years of use.  The splines on the shaft can usually be repaired by building the worn part up with weld and a new collar can be machined using a keyway cutter and then installed in the pulley or if you have another PTO in good shape that is probably the option I would go with. 

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#28 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted March 05, 2017 - 09:24 AM

I have a list of questions that I have on my original H14 seat, fender and the hydro oil filter, I would like to hear from everyone if you have any ideas on these items.

 

1. H14 seat:

 

The vinyl on the seat has become brittle and is cracking and has separated in some areas from the foam on the seat. Is there a seat tape that could be applied to the vinyl, or something else that could be done to stabilize the seat for now.

 

2. fender:

 

I want to create a access panel in the fender at the rear of the PTO shaft so that it can be serviced without removing the fender. The access cover would be fastened with four sheet metal screws. Any suggestions?

 

 

I will give you my thoughts on the seat and access panel for what they are worth

 

1  If the vinyl is cracked it is an indication that the vinyl is worn out - some people have used duct tape or products like goop to try and make the seat look a little better and last a little longer by covering the cracked areas - both are temporary fixes as the material will continue to deteriorate as most worn out things do .  You could make up a seat cover to slip over top of the seat, purchase a new seat with the same bolt pattern or get the seat you have recovered.

 

2  If you want to make an access cover you could cut out the metal where you want it and then make a lip with new metal underneath welded on to act as a backing for the piece you cut out to bolt to - you could spot weld or solder nuts onto the bottom of the lip or use J nuts and use machine screws to attach the piece you cut out to the newly formed recess - this would result in a smooth top and provide a decent looking job - check to make sure you will have enough room underneath for clearance.  The addition of the metal lip will strengthen the fender around the opening.  I have drawn a rough picture to give you an idea of what I am describing.

 

These are only my thoughts and others may offer other ideas.

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#29 logmillingman ONLINE  

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Posted March 05, 2017 - 12:12 PM

29 Chev, any thoughts on the oil filter

 

1. a possible supplier for the in line filter at a good price?

 

2. refitting to a spin on type?



#30 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted March 05, 2017 - 03:04 PM

29 Chev, any thoughts on the oil filter

 

1. a possible supplier for the in line filter at a good price?

 

2. refitting to a spin on type?

Not sure - you could check with some of the site sponsors and see if they have anything available - all my tubeframes are gear drive so I am not sure what options are available.  If none of the site sponsors can help you check with a automotive store and see if they can get anything for a hydraulic filter head that you can adapt to your set up.


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