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Engine Stand Adaptor To Hold Small Gas Engines


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#1 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted February 25, 2017 - 02:48 PM

A handy tool I have found over the years in a shop is an engine stand.  While the name implies that it is designed to hold a car or truck engine while overhauling it I have found that it can be used to hold various things such as transmissions and even a small garden tractor (with the help of an extension) when starting reassembly.  I find the stand supports the piece that I am working on in various positions, can be moved off to the side when the piece is not being worked on and does not tie up a work bench on a long term repair.  I have supported about three Bolens tube frame transmissions in the last few years with the help of two adaptor pieces I made out of some 1" x 1/8" square tubing and two short pieces of 1-1/2" x 1/8" angle iron.  A car motor usually mounts to the stand using holes that the transmission mount to in the end of the block whereas most small engines for garden and lawn tractors bolt on from the bottom which makes the mounting arms that the stand comes with difficult to use to mount a small gas or diesel engine.  In anticipation of working on a 10 HP Wisconsin engine I decided to modify the transmission adaptor pieces so they could support a variety of small engines - since the adaptors are handy I did not want to cut them up or weld anything to them so I made up two outer pieces that bolt to them to form outer slots using 1/8" x 1" flat steel - I decided to flip the pieces over from the way they normally sit so the motor will be at a better height to work on.  Then I made up two slotted crosspieces that can be adjusted for a variety of different engine bolt spacings using two 1/8' x 1" pieces welded together with a 3/8" spacing in between to form two slots that the engine can be bolted to.  I may make some 1" spacers out of pipe so the engine can sit away from the crosspieces. The engine should be able to be rotated once bolted to the crosspieces.   If you are planning on making an adaptor to mount 2 or 3 cyl gas or diesel engines I would recommend using 1/4" thick angle iron and flat steel as they will weigh quite a bit more - hope this helps someone and please keep safety in mind if you are planning on making something similar - make and use at your own risk.  The next thing I hope to make is a small pan that can be mounted to the engine stand post under the engine work area to catch dirt and drips as well as be able to set parts on.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Transmission Stand.jpg
  • 1.5 Transmission Stand.jpg
  • 2 Extension Added To Support Tractor While It Is Partially Assembled.jpg
  • 3 Transmission Adaptors Mounted On Stand.jpg
  • 4 Transmission Adaptors.jpg
  • 5 Pieces Cut To Form Outer Slot.jpg
  • 6 Pieces Ready To Be Welded.jpg
  • 7 Pieces Welded And Ready To Drill Holes.jpg
  • 8 Holes Drilled.jpg
  • 9 Making Cross Bars.jpg
  • 10 Cross Bars Made.jpg
  • 11 Adaptor Pieces Mounted To Stand.jpg
  • 12 Cross Pieces Mounted.jpg
  • 13 Cross Pieces Adjusted Close Together.jpg
  • 14 Will Rotate With Engine Stand Head.jpg
  • 15 Will Rotate With Engine Stand Head.jpg
  • 16 Will Rotate With Engine Stand Head.jpg
  • 17 Cross Pieces Can Be Adjusted.jpg

Edited by 29 Chev, May 01, 2017 - 07:10 PM.

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#2 glgrumpy ONLINE  

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Posted February 25, 2017 - 02:58 PM

The adjustability of the mountings and with all that "hole" to move them in, should work on many types.  Would work good on engines with pans still on. OR, maybe one could make an adjustable or not  ring to attach on the pto side of most engines that have bolt mount holes for drives and such?? Most of those are a universal size.


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#3 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted February 25, 2017 - 02:59 PM

Good idea!


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#4 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted February 25, 2017 - 03:55 PM

Thats a great Idea!


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#5 GM2SLO ONLINE  

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Posted February 25, 2017 - 05:38 PM

Wow,very on time for me was just at HF today looking for an inexpensive stand to do the exact same thing.Thanks for some great ideas on some mounts.

 

Bob 


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#6 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted February 25, 2017 - 07:41 PM

Thanks for the comments - forgot to mention that the two notches on the cross pieces at the right end that protrude and do not appear to do anything are there so that one or both of the cross pieces can be mounted on an angle to the side supports rather than at 90 degrees to them in case I encounter something else that I want to mount on the stand that is an irregular shape or where the front and rear bolt spacings on a motor are different.  I suppose this could also be used to mount an engine to while testing it or breaking it in but you would want to do that outdoors or where there is lots of fresh air and probably rotate the head so the engine was mounted with the centre of gravity at its lowest.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Cross Piece At Angle.jpg

Edited by 29 Chev, February 27, 2017 - 05:49 PM.


#7 Kster526 ONLINE  

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Posted February 26, 2017 - 05:47 AM

Great idea would not have thought about doing it like that
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#8 MFDAC OFFLINE  

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Posted February 26, 2017 - 08:41 PM

I dig the setup that looks like a chassis rotisserie too! Thanks for the ideas and pics.

 

DAC


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#9 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted February 27, 2017 - 06:12 PM

Made a drip pan / tool and parts tray to attach to the stand - it can be used to set parts and tools on during disassembly and reassembly, set a drain bucket on to drain the oil, or a garbage bag or pizza box can be set on it while cleaning dirt and gaskets off of a motor and then the box or bag can be removed along with the debris rather than having to clean the crap off of the floor and stand.  I wanted the tray to be easily removable when not needed so I made a small U bracket that clamps to the upright post using a 3/8" bolt. There is a 1" long piece of square tube welded to the U which works as a receiver to slide a smaller piece of square tube into to mount the tray and a 1/4" bolt goes through the tubing to hold the tray in place - all that is required to remove the tray is remove the 1/4" bolt and pull the tray out of the receiver.  The smaller piece of square tubing was a very loose fit so I ran a few beads of weld over the outside of the tube and sanded them down so the tubing is now a snug fit inside the larger piece.  I welded a framework made out of 1" x 1/8" angle iron across the back and 1' x 1/8" flat steel along the sides to the smaller square tubing and did a test fit - found out there was too much tilt down at the front so I slit the square tubing, bent it a little and welded the slit back up.  I mounted the side and front pieces of flat steel at a 45 degree angle so that things should not roll off the tray but small bolts and nuts shouldn't be hard to grab onto the way it would have been if I had used 90 degree angle iron for the sides and front.  Cut out a piece of sheet metal, bent it and tack welded it to the steel framework - the sheet metal extends about 1/2" up the sides all the way around so if oil or some other liquid gets dripped or spilled it should stay in the pan and drip on the floor.  This design will let me leave the U bracket on the stand and I can make different shaped pans with a piece of square tubing that can slip into the receiver if required. 

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 U To Slip Over Post On Engine Stand.jpg
  • 2 U Drilled For Three Eights Bolt.jpg
  • 3 Short Piece Of Square Tube Welded On To U.jpg
  • 4 Test Fit Of U On Post.jpg
  • 5 Head Can Be Rotated Withou Hitting U Bracket.jpg
  • 6 Short Piece Of Smaller Square Tube Welded To Angle Iron.jpg
  • 7 Test Fit Of Tray Framework.jpg
  • 8 Tray Frame Slopes To Far Down At Front.jpg
  • 9 Cut Slit In Square Tube.jpg
  • 10 Square Tube Bent And Tube Rewelded.jpg
  • 11 Sheet Metal To Make Bottom Of Tray.jpg
  • 12 Sheet Metal Tack Welded.jpg
  • 13 Tray Attached To Stand.jpg
  • 14 Quarter Inch Bolt Holds Tray On.jpg
  • 15 Tray Attached.jpg
  • 16 A Box Can Be Set On Tray To Catch Dirt While Cleaning Engine.jpg

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#10 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted February 28, 2017 - 08:12 AM

That pretty ingenious. I like the frame rotisserie also.

 

Now, if I could just get those truck motors off my engine stands :thumbs:


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#11 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted February 28, 2017 - 09:12 AM

 

Now, if I could just get those truck motors off my engine stands :thumbs:

I can relate to that problem - my first engine stand is still supporting one end of a 29 Chevrolet coupe frame.


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#12 Alc OFFLINE  

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Posted February 28, 2017 - 09:20 AM

Another adapter to make for the engine stand  :thumbs:  Not to hijack your thread but just to add another adapter for a stand , I made a steel top for welding also works a god tool stand when working on a car

http://gardentractor...-welding-table/


Edited by Alc, February 28, 2017 - 09:22 AM.

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#13 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted February 28, 2017 - 09:30 AM

Another adapter to make for the engine stand  :thumbs:  Not to hijack your thread but just to add another adapter for a stand , I made a steel top for welding also works a god tool stand when working on a car

http://gardentractor...-welding-table/

Great idea - thanks for sharing.



#14 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted February 28, 2017 - 12:52 PM

I can relate to that problem - my first engine stand is still supporting one end of a 29 Chevrolet coupe frame.

My buddy has my other one, Pontiac 400, he's had it since 2002, maybe someday he'll get that motor rebuilt for his TA  haha


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#15 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted March 01, 2017 - 03:35 PM

Got the pieces painted and back together and then set the Wisconsin engine on the stand and bolted it down.  Since the application it fits uses 3/4" high spacers I decided to mount them between the engine and the stand cross pieces to get a little clearance under the bottom.  I also got tired of the handle falling out of the head so I put an O Ring on the handle and then a layer of black tape on the end.  One modification I am going to do is extend the side slots back to the engine stand head as this will let me mount the engine closer to the head so the weight is closer to the upright post and allow another small tray to be placed at the outer end but it worked to start to disassemble the engine.  With the slots extended back it will also let the engine be more centred over top of the tray - the tray worked good for holding the oil drain bucket and also to set wrenches, parts and bolts on while I was taking things apart. 

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Pieces Painted.jpg
  • 2 Pieces Painted.jpg
  • 3 Pieces Painted.jpg
  • 4 Width Of Tray.jpg
  • 5 Pieces Painted.jpg
  • 6 Depth Of Tray.jpg
  • 7 Pieces Painted.jpg
  • 8 O Ring And Black Tape On Handle.jpg
  • 9 Engine On Stand.jpg
  • 10 Engine On Stand.jpg
  • 11 Engine On Stand.jpg
  • 12 Spacers Used To Raise Engine.jpg
  • 13 Draining Oil.jpg
  • 14 Head and Carb Removed.jpg

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