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IH Farmall F-20 valve guides


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#1 Schwarzkopf9 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 22, 2017 - 12:44 PM

Hey guys, i feel awkward bringing up a row crop tractor on a GT forum but, here goes!

Stated in on our family's f20, fixing up the head, valves, manifold etc. My problem is the exhaust valve guides look shot. I can source some guides but, i have never done guides before. They've been in the head since 1937 so, I'm assuming they are pretty much stuck. Anyone have experience in this area? Ill add some photos...
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#2 Schwarzkopf9 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 22, 2017 - 12:48 PM

Not that pretty yet, paint to come (hey its been outside for 40 years!)

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#3 Schwarzkopf9 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 22, 2017 - 12:51 PM

Upside down again...maybe KennyP can help again?

#4 Schwarzkopf9 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 22, 2017 - 12:51 PM

Phones...

#5 jimmy G OFFLINE  

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Posted February 22, 2017 - 01:16 PM

When it comes to head work like this I go to the machine shop,if you are going back to original and need pics or information I have a few F20's,very cool old red you have,their is a thread on here looking for comments on heritage tractors
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#6 Bill 76 ONLINE  

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Posted February 22, 2017 - 03:14 PM

If it were mine I would take it to an engine shop and have the guides machined out and have them press in the new guides , also have them grind the seats , Lots of new guides the valve stem hole and the outside of guide are not concentric and the valve won't seat properly . 

There is also a brass liner that can be put inside your old guide that some shops are doing now because it's easer and faster and a tad cheaper then removing and installing old guides.


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#7 Bud W OFFLINE  

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Posted February 22, 2017 - 03:28 PM

When my son raced go karts, we would ream the valve guides out (Briggs 5 hp) and press a brass insert in and ream it to fit the valve stem. After that, used a seat cutter to refresh the seat and then grind the valve faces on new valves. 


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#8 Schwarzkopf9 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 22, 2017 - 11:12 PM

If it were mine I would take it to an engine shop and have the guides machined out and have them press in the new guides , also have them grind the seats , Lots of new guides the valve stem hole and the outside of guide are not concentric and the valve won't seat properly . 
There is also a brass liner that can be put inside your old guide that some shops are doing now because it's easer and faster and a tad cheaper then removing and installing old guides.


I think that's the road Im going to take. Like I said, I can source the guides but now I'm having trouble locating the valve seals. It never ends....ever hear of them being re used? May have to go that route giving they survive getting removed...

#9 Bill 76 ONLINE  

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Posted February 22, 2017 - 11:29 PM

I think that's the road Im going to take. Like I said, I can source the guides but now I'm having trouble locating the valve seals. It never ends....ever hear of them being re used? May have to go that route giving they survive getting removed...

Are you sure it had seals when new ? Lots of engines didn't have valve seals back then , but if you want new seals the machine shop can machine the top of  your guilds for a push on seal , valve stems are usually a common size so matching a seal should not be a problem. 


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#10 glgrumpy OFFLINE  

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Posted February 23, 2017 - 04:21 AM

Older shops have probly done many of these and know the parts to use. Problem may be finding old timer anymore. My local store shop had great guy. They had trouble finding young guy to take over, not as much interest in fixing anymore, just replacing.

#11 Schwarzkopf9 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 24, 2017 - 12:00 PM

I agree, these old timers need to quit retiring so I can keep my antiques running!
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#12 Schwarzkopf9 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 24, 2017 - 12:05 PM

Are you sure it had seals when new ? Lots of engines didn't have valve seals back then , but if you want new seals the machine shop can machine the top of  your guilds for a push on seal , valve stems are usually a common size so matching a seal should not be a problem.


Those were my thoughts. The valve train has no forced lubrication, you have too fill the drip trays before you start it every time. The valves aren't even lubricated! Just the rockers and push rods. Thinking I may modify that. However, its lasted 80 years without it so, maybe I'll leave it that way...
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#13 Bill 76 ONLINE  

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Posted February 24, 2017 - 02:35 PM

Those were my thoughts. The valve train has no forced lubrication, you have too fill the drip trays before you start it every time. The valves aren't even lubricated! Just the rockers and push rods. Thinking I may modify that. However, its lasted 80 years without it so, maybe I'll leave it that way...

If it's just a drip and splash system  I would not even  bother with the valve seals then , like you said it lasted 80 years without it .


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