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Anyone torn apart a Cub Cadet rear?


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#1 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted June 07, 2011 - 07:04 PM

I am going to download the service manual as I am sure it has the instructions to tear down the rear. I at least remember it having instructions on how to halve the tractor or whatever the term was. I already have the rear and whole tractor completely torn apart other then the front axle and spindles.

I was just curious to see if anyone might have any extra tips to watch out for when I go to disassemble it. I plan to check all of the gears and replace all of the seals. I removed the creeper and will more then likely save it for another once since this 122 is going to be turned in to a pulling tractor for my little girl.

#2 IHCubGuy OFFLINE  

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Posted June 07, 2011 - 09:07 PM

They are pretty straight forward to disassemble. Only time I've ever torn one completely apart was to change out 2nd gear on my 100 from the slow speed gearset to the high speed set. Only problem I had was that the ring gear didnt want to come out or go back in very easy but with a bit of coaxing I got her in. Personally if it was me I wouldn't go any further than tearing off the reduction housing and the axles along with the rear cover to replace the gaskets. The transmission itself is next to bulletproof and I wouldn't tear it apart unless you have a current problem in it. You do say though that you intend to make it a puller so depending on the HP's you plan to put in front of it you could do some other mods to it like fine spline axles and Carrier in the rear. If you plan on staying near stock HP I personally would let her buttoned up. I have had many and all I ever do is drain the oil and put in new and she's good to go. They are the same transmission housing and gears that were used in the Farmall Cub so in the Cub Cadets they last a long time without much problem. Biggest problem with the Cub Cadet transmission is the spirol pin that is in the coupler on the front. When they finally break after years of service people tend to replace them with a regular split pin. These will not last and when they fail are a real bear to get out. Spirol pin is rolled tight inside out and looks like a sticky bun from the end. Only other problem is in the gearshifter, the way the ball and cup setup is they sometimes tend to break free of the shift handle allowing it to flop around all over the place. While still being usable it is a pain to deal with sometimes. I've had many with this "disease".

I am not trying in anyway to discourage you from tearing it apart, but I will bet unless it was abused there will be little to anything wrong inside the transmission case. Of course maybe there's a story behind it being broke I havent read about, in which case ignore my post. LOL! Good luck with her and you won't be dissapointed when it's done, they are a nice little tractor for pulling.
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#3 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted June 08, 2011 - 06:30 PM

That is great info. I think I probably will just do the seals and be done with it. The most this thing will see is a 16hp Kohler in it. I want to build one with a 25hp Kohler Command but I haven't decided what frame I am going to use for it.

#4 hotya100 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 10, 2011 - 12:18 PM

I agree with IHCubGuy. As long as the shifter moves smoothly through all the gears then it is probably in good shape. Another good source of information is "Brian Miller's Tips and Tricks for Garden Pulling Tractors". It sure helped me out when I first started out building our puller. A lot of the guys are putting the commands in the later model frames, like the 1864. We had to do a lot of modifications to our "quiet line" frame when we installed the command engine.

Larry

Edited by hotya100, June 10, 2011 - 12:28 PM.
added model number





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