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1614 Transmission Fluid Level/Amount

transmission level amount

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#16 DirtBug OFFLINE  

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Posted February 21, 2017 - 08:43 PM

Alright I'll have to see how it does with just topping it off...  if the grinding is still noticeable I'll drain and fill it with the rest. Thanks guys



#17 glgrumpy ONLINE  

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Posted February 22, 2017 - 09:02 PM

That lucas in pix is right stuff I believe.   ON the grinding.......Best to stop tractor, no roll when shifting. Push in clutch first, roll to stop, then pick gear w/out lifting up on clutch pedal. IF...you get the trans to turn by lifting pedal at the stop, you have to wait for it to stop once again when pushed back down. These need to be stopped in tractor movement and the trans movement to shift better. NEVER try to shift on the fly like a car/truck. Will not work, grind and maybe jamb! 



#18 DirtBug OFFLINE  

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Posted February 24, 2017 - 06:18 AM

Alright good to know, I had been grinding it a little but have been getting better at it. Also working on feathering the clutch as it can be sort of jumpy...

#19 glgrumpy ONLINE  

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Posted February 24, 2017 - 08:10 AM

Sometimes PK clutches are more like an on/off switch, kinda grabby, have to learn to "ease" it out best you can. AND, if you had oil leaking our front of trans and onto the clutch lining, it may be grabby from that, just like wet brakes on a car/truck are.


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#20 DirtBug OFFLINE  

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Posted February 24, 2017 - 08:21 PM

Just switched to 100℅ STP. No grinding, shifter seems more smooth too but this could all be because I had barely anything in there before and also had water... Definitely an improvement. One thing I noticed is that sometimes it was hard to get in gear and I would have to go to another gear to do a kind of reset before being able to get into the gear I wanted. Probably normal but I suspect I'll be doing a rebuild down the road...

#21 glgrumpy ONLINE  

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Posted February 25, 2017 - 03:15 PM

When don't drop into gear, just lift very little on clutch pedal, enough to start things rolling while holding lever towards gear you want, and should drop in just before moving.  Just like driving old 4spd trucks, specially when going into Low.


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#22 DirtBug OFFLINE  

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Posted February 25, 2017 - 03:17 PM

Alright good to know I'll try it out thank you

#23 classic ONLINE  

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Posted February 27, 2017 - 01:59 AM

Standard transmissions start getting harder to get into gear,once the front of the gear teeth get chipped or flattened out from grinding gears. The front of the teeth are rounded off when new, so when one gear gets forced into another when you shift, they find home easily. Chipped or flat faces but into each other, so you have to let the clutch out with pressure on the shifter like grumpy said. I'm using 85-140 gear oil only in my transmission on my PK and it's working well. Another thing, if the clutch system is lubed well and free of rust, you will have a proper working clutch. When things are dry or rusty and crusty, the clutch action will be jerky. The pilot bearing should be in good shape, the nose cone on the trans should be lightly greased so that the throw out bearing slides easily, and there are bronze bushings in the bellhousing that need to be free from grime. If the clutch pedal binds or does not move freely in the bellhousing, you will surely get the jerking clutch action. The clutch pedal spring inside the bellhousing needs to be strong, too. These can brake or become weak over time. I completely went over my clutch system when I built my PK and all of these things are in order. The clutch and transmission really work well with no jerking when releasing the clutch.
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#24 DirtBug OFFLINE  

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Posted February 27, 2017 - 05:56 PM

Thanks Classic. The problem is putting pressure on the shifter can be tough because the gears are so loose haha. I have yet to try it though so I'm interested to find out.

Also fyi for anyone who's interested the 4 speed transmission took almost the whole bottle of hub oil bringing it up to 3 3/8 below the fill hole. The bottle is 32 oz but I probably put in 25 oz.
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#25 classic ONLINE  

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Posted March 02, 2017 - 01:50 AM

You're welcome. You should plan a tear down of the trans and clutch and check the condition of things .These tractors are a blast to use when working properly.

#26 DirtBug OFFLINE  

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Posted March 03, 2017 - 08:21 AM

Eventually... The more I work with the tractor and become comfortable it becomes something I'd like to do. Eventually it would be nice to do a complete restore/rebuild but that will be after I'm done with school because I just don't have that kind of time these days haha.





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