Update: I have figured out the rest of the clutch. I ordered some items from McMaster Carr as they are more than willing to ship ones and twos of things.
1. 1/2" ID x 5/8" OD x 3" Bronze Bushing
2. 1" x 12" Round steel bar
3. 3/8" x 2" x 12" flat stock
4. 1/2" ID x 1" OD x 1/8 Bronze flat thrust washer
5. 15.5mm Silver & Demming style drill bit - the correct size used to press a 5/8" (16mm) bushing
I cut the 1" round rod to 1-1/2" long and used the 15.5mm bit to drill a hole down the (close) middle. I cut the bronze bushing about 1-3/4" long and used a big hammer and part of a 1/2" bolt to drive the bushing into the round stock.
After cutting the bushing to the correct length and filing it flat, I had to run a 1/2" drill bit through it to size it back up (I guess squishing it into the hole deformed it a bit).
I then used a 1" bi-metal hole saw to bore through the 3/8" flat stock in the same place as the hole in my mock up clutch design. The pictures show the pivot in place where it needs to be, I will weld it into permanent place tomorrow at work.
All that will be left is to put it in position using the bronze thrust washer in between the clutch and the pivot and at the end where the e-clip goes.
I also built a three point hitch for the back. I purchased a base on eBay. Bought some galvanized 5/8" steel rod for the tractor end of the lift arms and 1/2" for the arm lift links from Tractor supply. I used the dimensions someone posted in a picture (I would like to credit them but I'll have to edit it in later when I find it) and bent the lift links to match. I don't have an adjustable side yet but this setup is workable for now.
I found some NOS Sears lift arms on eBay for a great price, I had originally decided to make them but the cost would have exceeded the purchase price. I used hair clip pins to attach everything so if someone wants dimensions for the 5/8" pivot rod LMK and I'll let you know where to drill the holes. There are cotter pins on the backside of the hitch plate to keep the rod from falling out.