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2 MF12's from York, PA


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#16 Guest_hooligan_*

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Posted March 30, 2010 - 06:49 AM

when you have that many tractors you might want to consider getting a small ultrasonic cleaner for the carbs and some clr


Can I use the same one I use for my teeth? hehe

#17 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted March 30, 2010 - 08:13 AM

Can I use the same one I use for my teeth? hehe


I don't see why not! :-)

#18 fordmustang1984 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 30, 2010 - 11:15 AM

Ok, so there might still be dirt in there, but I have no money for a rebuild right now, so i'm going to start by converting it to automotive ignition, incase the SSI really is bad. Then, if that does not fix it, it is time for a carb rebuild, but probably not until later in the month when i don't need to row a boat to the garage. XD

#19 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted March 30, 2010 - 11:22 AM

I would double check the fuel lines and fuel tank and make sure they are clean and there is no air getting in the system. I am thinking it is in the carb but if you have an extra ssi unit to put on it to test then go ahead and try it.

How did you ever make out with the other one overheating? Did you get the carb adjusted like I suggested?

#20 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 30, 2010 - 04:12 PM

Hi Alex

Maybe try this, get your self one of these, spark tester, I think I paid $5. or $10. for it. Hooks up easy, fast, spark plug stays in.

Try to start your engine again and when it dies hook this up right away and crank it over, see if you have spark, at least it we tell you where the problem is. You do have a new spark plug in right.

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  • 66 MF10 085..jpg


#21 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted March 30, 2010 - 04:24 PM

i'm going to start by converting it to automotive ignition, incase the SSI really is bad. Then, if that does not fix it, it is time for a carb rebuild, but probably not until later in the month when i don't need to row a boat to the garage. XD


Use the carb spray first. If she stays running with it, then it's not your ignition breaking down & it'll save the time/money doing the ignition conversion.

#22 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 30, 2010 - 04:40 PM

:ditto:

It is the quickest easiest way.

#23 fordmustang1984 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 30, 2010 - 04:49 PM

It is the easiest way, but i already have the conversion parts here, just the coil I have for it is bad. I'll try the carb cleaner tomorrow, or tonight, just in case. I definately have to get one of those spark testers next time I go to Sears. The plug i have it old, but has been cleaned several time before i put it in. It only had about 2 hrs on it anyway. There is definately no air in the gas line, i bled it all out. It also has 2 filters on it, the screen in the tank, and an inline filter.

George, I did get it to run right. I ended up changing it back to the old ignition, so it would run right under load, but its fine now. The problem was that the auto coil i had was breaking down, and could not maintain the spark. Now, its all adjusted right, and should be ready for summer.

#24 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted March 30, 2010 - 06:02 PM

Good deal! Now you can build the new ignition at your leisure.

#25 fordmustang1984 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 30, 2010 - 06:27 PM

oh, its already built, i would just have to change it from one tractor to the other.

#26 fordmustang1984 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 31, 2010 - 08:23 PM

Well, i tried to start the tractor today, to find the starter did not want to turn the motor. So I cleaned the brushes, and coils, and it seems fine now, so I will remount it on Friday, and see what happens.

#27 fordmustang1984 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 02, 2010 - 09:54 PM

Well, had today off from school, so i finally had time to work on the tractors. I ended up using the auto ignition on the OH140, but the starter would not spin the motor at all. I don't have a spare, so i opened it up, and found the negative brush springs were trash. I used a pair of pen springs, and it actually worked! Then, i modified the coil leads to use a coil out of a towncar. Then, it actually ran, and once the tranny was filled, it drove, but seemed to stumble and lack power. it would start strong, but half way round the yard, it would lose power. It also blows smoke out the PCV valve once it worms up. Then I started on the gear tractor. It had no spark, so i tried my spare SSI that did not work on the other motor. it ran great, and was driving around the yard in under an hour, just like I said it would. The bad part was the left running board wasnt bolted down, the right was back in the drive way where I put it, and it had no fan shroud! And i drove it like that till my brother came back out, and i had him put the parts on wiith my spare bolts, the originals were MIA. While he did that, I fixed the homemade wiring harness. i made a bracket for the coil, and got most of the wires run, and wrapped in tape. Tomorrow, i'll probably finish freeing up the clutch pulley on the gear so it won't drag, and force me to grind the gears to shift of i let the belts start moving.

Does anyone have any idea what is goin gon with the OH140? Its hard to play with the adjustments oth the carb with a preset mainjet. Thnaks, and i should have some pics tomorrow, assuming I am home for the day and not off on some other job or project.

#28 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 03, 2010 - 07:25 AM


Does anyone have any idea what is goin gon with the OH140? Its hard to play with the adjustments oth the carb with a preset mainjet. Thnaks, and i should have some pics tomorrow, assuming I am home for the day and not off on some other job or project.



Smoke out the breather tube is blow by, piston rings not sealing properly, makes the engine burn oil, run hot, less power. No engine is going to run really nice with to much blow by.
To clean out the carb without taking it off, remove the main jet spray carb cleaner though it and directly in the carb where the jet was, use the spray tube that comes with carb cleaner. Do the same for idle jet.
Test float valve remove the bowl and see if fuel comes out the float vavle and that it works (on + off).
Another trick is to remove the air cleaner assembly so that just the carb is there, start the engine run at about 1/2 speed and put your hand right over the air intake of the carb to make an air tight seal till it stalls (won't take long) this puts really high vacuum in the carb and sucks all the loose stuff though, I find this works really well, only need to do this once.
If all that doesn't work you need to do full carb dis-assembly to clean out all the passages, I think this was mentioned before, I find Laquer Thinner very fast and effective in cleaning carbs just don't use it on plastic or rubber parts.

#29 fordmustang1984 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 03, 2010 - 09:20 PM

Well then, its definately the rings cause the engine shows all those symptoms. Does that mean that I need a new engine, or a rebuild? The carb is definately not the issue, its as clean as it gets it seems. The hydro does work well, but will need the linkage fixed. i might make it a foot control. Any sugestions for another motor? The other tractor runs perfectly, and is quite powerful. It moves things like they are not even there, like the hydros that don't like to roll.

#30 fordmustang1984 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 03, 2010 - 09:26 PM

Oh, here are the pics i took today. The first is the 12G, and the second is the hydro.
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