MF 710 Parts?
Posted June 05, 2011 - 01:47 PM
Posted June 06, 2011 - 10:42 AM
Posted June 06, 2011 - 09:57 PM
Posted June 07, 2011 - 06:54 PM
Posted June 07, 2011 - 07:07 PM
Those decks come off fairly easy, I think. So changeing a belt isn't to bad.
I have one that some did the bolt think to, some time ago. I've been using it on and off for 2 years now, and it's
holding out fine. I would think you'd have to use a cobalt drill, since the spline is hardened.
Posted June 07, 2011 - 09:54 PM
Posted June 08, 2011 - 08:26 PM
I do believe the proper set up should have one blade at 90 degrees to the other side. There may be some play room, you would have to play with it. It will hit when mowing even if they clear by hand if very close.
Posted June 08, 2011 - 08:49 PM
IF you do not have any of the shafts, here is what you need to do. But some round stock that is long enough to span between the ends of the two gear boxes. (Mine is 11') This should be sized, or larger than the shaft on the gear boxes. Just make sure it is a standard size so that a pulley can be placed in the middle of the shaft.
Then, the gear boxes are easy to take apart. I would remove the spline shafts from the housing. This will also help you time them without worry. The gear inside will allow you to put the two boxes into a 90 degree phase no matter where the connections are made. (This saves a ton of work worrying about where they lock in place)
Now, I would turn down on a lathe, both shafts to remove the splines completely. Match the diameter on the center shaft. The center shaft should be turned down 1.5" and the gear box .75" so that the sleeve that goes over them can slide fully onto the center shaft. This is so that you can remove the belt without having to remove a gear box.
Now for the sleeve, I would make them a nice slip fit, and 1.5" long (.75 engagement per shaft) These sleeves should be a good .50 thick walled and drilled and tapped for set screws (Two per shaft with matching indents into the shaft for the set screws to engage into the shaft.)
Done this way will look pretty much stock, never fail, and be done right. Any fine tuning to time the blades can be done either with the main gear teeth, or the fine teeth at the end of the shaft where the gear mounts. Another tip is to swap the gears from left to right, as it will run on the back side of the gear teeth and have a "new" surface.
I can grab some photos of my shafts and the gear box as I have it apart in my shop. (I stole a gear for my MF12 deck right angle gear box.)
For now, this is what the gear inside the box looks like. You can see how you can change the timing on any one of these gears. It is as simple as removing the cap and pulling the shaft out a little bit, rotating it, and putting it back into place where you want it. Fine tuning can be done by removal of the gear itself, but you really do not have to be that close.
This is a pretty easy job in a machine shop, but will cost you on labor.
IF you are missing the shafts inside the gear box too (kinda reads that way) you will pretty much be stuck finding a full box. You "may" be able to modify both shafts from a right angle box off the MF10 / 12 deck as they both are set up for pulleys. This would be a trial and error to see if it could even be done.
Here is one box on e-bay
Edited by FirefyterEmt, June 08, 2011 - 09:16 PM.
Posted June 09, 2011 - 07:09 PM
Posted June 09, 2011 - 07:50 PM