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MF 710 Parts?


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#1 hardek OFFLINE  

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Posted June 05, 2011 - 01:47 PM

HELP? where can u get parts for this mower deck? I bought another one yesterday but it didn't have all the parts I needed. I am looking for the short shafts for the gearboxes and the long shaft with couplers. I probably could monkey rig something with what I have but it would make belt changing very fun. I contacted a dealer and they want both my arms and one leg. I think good used is what I need. Or can I get them made somewhere? Thank you

#2 mikebramel OFFLINE  

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Posted June 06, 2011 - 10:42 AM

Getting a gear made is going to cost you more than a gear that has been mass produced. A used one on ebay would be even less. They pop up all the time

#3 hardek OFFLINE  

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Posted June 06, 2011 - 09:57 PM

Just wondering about the shafts on the mower deck, has anyone tried getting new ones made? I wonder if instead of the splines you could have the shaft end made square and use a square tube as the coupler. Both my decks have the splines worn out. I think new ones would wear out after a while again. Who makes shafts it is a machinist or a ??? thanks

#4 FirefyterEmt OFFLINE  

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Posted June 07, 2011 - 06:54 PM

The square drive would be a good way to go, but just make DANG sure you have figured out the timing on the deck blades is correct. The splined shafts are hardened, so it will take some extra work to have them milled. You will also need a round hub in the center of the shaft to mount the pulley on. (again, easy to do with the proper milling tools, but not so easy at home)

#5 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted June 07, 2011 - 07:07 PM

If not trying to restore to original, you might want to consider drilling, and putting a bolt/nylok nut through.
Those decks come off fairly easy, I think. So changeing a belt isn't to bad.
I have one that some did the bolt think to, some time ago. I've been using it on and off for 2 years now, and it's
holding out fine. I would think you'd have to use a cobalt drill, since the spline is hardened.

#6 hardek OFFLINE  

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Posted June 07, 2011 - 09:54 PM

I am wondering about the timing of the blades? Are the blades supposed to be at right angles to each other or some other way? The shafts on my deck were drilled and bolted but it looks like they were hitting each other. Can u change were the blades are attached?

#7 FirefyterEmt OFFLINE  

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Posted June 08, 2011 - 08:26 PM

No, on mine the blades have two flat spots on the shaft that give it only one way to attach the blades. Did they drill & bolt both sides of the sleeve and on both gear boxes? You only need to be able to change the splines on one side of the sleeve. (a total of 4 bolts would lock every spline in place.)

I do believe the proper set up should have one blade at 90 degrees to the other side. There may be some play room, you would have to play with it. It will hit when mowing even if they clear by hand if very close.

#8 FirefyterEmt OFFLINE  

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Posted June 08, 2011 - 08:49 PM

I just re-read this... I thought you had the parts, is this not true?

IF you do not have any of the shafts, here is what you need to do. But some round stock that is long enough to span between the ends of the two gear boxes. (Mine is 11') This should be sized, or larger than the shaft on the gear boxes. Just make sure it is a standard size so that a pulley can be placed in the middle of the shaft.

Then, the gear boxes are easy to take apart. I would remove the spline shafts from the housing. This will also help you time them without worry. The gear inside will allow you to put the two boxes into a 90 degree phase no matter where the connections are made. (This saves a ton of work worrying about where they lock in place)

Now, I would turn down on a lathe, both shafts to remove the splines completely. Match the diameter on the center shaft. The center shaft should be turned down 1.5" and the gear box .75" so that the sleeve that goes over them can slide fully onto the center shaft. This is so that you can remove the belt without having to remove a gear box.

Now for the sleeve, I would make them a nice slip fit, and 1.5" long (.75 engagement per shaft) These sleeves should be a good .50 thick walled and drilled and tapped for set screws (Two per shaft with matching indents into the shaft for the set screws to engage into the shaft.)

Done this way will look pretty much stock, never fail, and be done right. Any fine tuning to time the blades can be done either with the main gear teeth, or the fine teeth at the end of the shaft where the gear mounts. Another tip is to swap the gears from left to right, as it will run on the back side of the gear teeth and have a "new" surface.

I can grab some photos of my shafts and the gear box as I have it apart in my shop. (I stole a gear for my MF12 deck right angle gear box.)
For now, this is what the gear inside the box looks like. You can see how you can change the timing on any one of these gears. It is as simple as removing the cap and pulling the shaft out a little bit, rotating it, and putting it back into place where you want it. Fine tuning can be done by removal of the gear itself, but you really do not have to be that close.
Posted Image

This is a pretty easy job in a machine shop, but will cost you on labor.

IF you are missing the shafts inside the gear box too (kinda reads that way) you will pretty much be stuck finding a full box. You "may" be able to modify both shafts from a right angle box off the MF10 / 12 deck as they both are set up for pulleys. This would be a trial and error to see if it could even be done.

Here is one box on e-bay
http://cgi.ebay.com/...=item5ae0f1cfd1

Edited by FirefyterEmt, June 08, 2011 - 09:16 PM.


#9 hardek OFFLINE  

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Posted June 09, 2011 - 07:09 PM

Thank you for the info it is very helpful. I have 4 of the gearbox shafts but... 1 broken off another has very worn out hole. the other two have been drilled. One i built up with weld and hope it will work. I would like to get two of these in better shape someday. Then i will use a bought shaft for the centeer shaft. Here in Manitoba I cab get keyed shafts at Princess auto store. Would it be best to keep trying the shafts at different places till they don't hit? The only adjusting I can do is to the gearbox shafts. Thank you

#10 FirefyterEmt OFFLINE  

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Posted June 09, 2011 - 07:50 PM

Once you figure out the shafts, you can remove the bolted on retaining cap from the gear box. With that gear box left un-bolted to the deck, you should be able to pull that end of the shaft out enough that the gears no longer mesh, and then just turn it to the right spot and replace the cap.




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