Need all the weight on the front I can get - that's for sure.
Being sick the last few days nothing got done but I'm still a lil ahead of this thread.
Not by much but some.
Here is the front frame assembly set in place and tack-welded.
I've got a lot of cutting the blue part of the frame to do here. Had to cut clear back to where the fancy wood-grained shift pattern/VIN tag is on the frame. The Cushman engine has to sit far enough back that its flywheel is almost in the rear drive wheels way - except that the flywheel is inside [narrower] than the drive wheels.
Not sure you can tell from this angle but I angled the front end of the rear half of the frame down quite a bit - then put the angle iron front half in level. Two reasons for this. one the top of the transmission on the John Deere is pretty much level. The Sears frame top has a pretty good slope. Just trying to make things flow correctly. Next, and more importantly, I needed that upright Cushman engine as low as I could get it. Remember, I have to hide that cylinder under the hood. On the real Deere the top of the fenders and the top of the hood are pretty much the same height. Keep in mind the real tractors fenders also have clearance for huge lugs on the drive wheels. When all this is taken into consideration, things are going great.
There are still many opportunities for me to foul something up. Stay tuned! You may get to laugh AT me.
Tomorrow the plan is to arc weld the Midlands old cast iron clicker hubs to the rear wheels.
My shop is wired for 20 amp, 220 service but the arc welder need 30 amp service. Its a real pain.
I have to run a huge extension cord in the back door of the house, through the back porch and into the kitchen, Slide out the 400 pound 1962 Frigidaire Flair Custom Imperial cook stove, [yes it came from the city dump too] and plug the welder in there.
[You might Google that stove. AMAZING work of art] You may also get a glimpse of the stoves twin if you watch the TV show "I Dream Of Jeanie". It has 2 ovens and hide-away burners that retract completely away!
I usually just weld on saw horses in the yard but if a vise is needed, I have just enough cord and welding leads to get to the bench vise in the shop. Wouldn't be hard to upgrade the shops 220 service but I so seldom use the arc welder its hardly worth the effort. The shops air conditioner works fine on the 20 amp service and I have a 110 mig welder for lighter duty projects that gets used often.
Anyhow, I cut the unneeded tapered portion off the hubs as I just needed a spacer.
The one in the back is uncut. The Midlands hubs were a 5-bolt pattern but were only drilled and tapped for 3 lug bolts. I wanted all 5 utilized because the steel wheels are significantly larger, plus the steel wheels don't have the give the pneumatic tires do. Makes for a much more harsh ride and much more stress on the hubs - and my welds.
This ring I'm holding [also from the city dump] has the correct spacing for the 5 bolt pattern on garden tractors. Maybe they were wheel spacers - I have no idea. I'm notorious for drilling the new holes just a fudgin off no matter how much measuring I do and that causes problems. Part of my problem is that my drill press is a light duty hobby model and when I crank it down to really drill the table bends down causing the bit to crawl. I bolted the spacers to the three existing lug holes as shown on the closest hub and got a bit that fit the spacers hole tight. Then drilled just enough to give me a fool-proof "center" without worry about the bit crawling around. With a center found I switched to the correct size bit for 7/16 lug bolts, which is 26/64.
The first hole drilled at 26/64 was slightly too large and I didn't get much thread so the other 3 holes got a 25/64 bit to drill all the way through. It was hard tapping but the end result was good deep threads.
The Midland hubs utilize 7/16x20NF threads so the two per hub I drilled I made match with fine threads.
The Sears hubs were 7/16x14NC threads. I will be drilling all the threads out of the Sears hubs and the lug bolts will screw out from the inside of the Sears hub into the Midland hubs. This isn't really necessary but I want to be able to unbolt the wheels because I have other wheels that I may change to later. I could weld the sears hubs right to the Midland hubs and then slide the Sears hubs on the transaxles - axles and clamp them wherever I want for the correct width. Its also cheaper to bolt the two hubs together than it is to weld them since nickel rod is so high priced.
Edited by Gtractor, January 30, 2017 - 02:29 AM.