Jump to content

Garden Tractors and Parts on eBay



Photo
- - - - -

Need to slow down 1655 pto


  • Please log in to reply
15 replies to this topic

#1 fitzer OFFLINE  

fitzer

    New Member

  • Member
  • Member No: 4475
  • 9 Thanks
  • 21 posts
  • Location: Francis, Saskatchewan

Posted January 15, 2017 - 06:23 PM

I acquired a snowblower that needs to turn at about 1100 rpm. To run it off front pto, I need to slow pto down. It looks like changing engine pulley to anything smaller is next to impossible. So, I want to make driven larger.

Does anyone know of a supplier that may have a 16 inch pulley to match the pto spline?

#2 Cat385B ONLINE  

Cat385B

    HAZMAT CAT

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 8002
  • 13,163 Thanks
  • 9,631 posts
  • Location: MN

Posted January 15, 2017 - 06:35 PM

McMaster-Carr has pulleys that size, but I can't find the correct bore bushing to match it up.
  • limebuzz said thank you

#3 limebuzz OFFLINE  

limebuzz

    Member

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 795
  • 953 Thanks
  • 942 posts
  • Location: Bluevale Ontario

Posted January 15, 2017 - 06:36 PM

Welcome to the mayhem. I'm not sure if there is enough room to fit a 16 inch pulley on the bottom pto. And if chance there is,you will likely have to custom build one. Is there a way to slow the blower itself down? What blower are you trying to mount? Pics?

#4 fitzer OFFLINE  

fitzer

    New Member

  • Member
  • Member No: 4475
  • 9 Thanks
  • 21 posts
  • Location: Francis, Saskatchewan

Posted January 15, 2017 - 07:16 PM

Ya, just went and double checked. 14 inch would be max, and even then a tight tolerance against the frame. If I went that way, impeller rpm would be about 1400rpm, provided motor is actually at 3600. Would have to slow down to about 3000 to get 1178 rpm.

I don't want to go with a bunch of pulleys and idlers, as that will make me have to mount blower way out in front. As it is now, I've got a nice short 12 inch driveshaft, and blower is nice and close to tractor.

I will have to think on this some more!

The blower is a 44 Bercomac. Haven't got pics tonight.
  • limebuzz said thank you

#5 limebuzz OFFLINE  

limebuzz

    Member

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 795
  • 953 Thanks
  • 942 posts
  • Location: Bluevale Ontario

Posted January 15, 2017 - 09:24 PM

I was just thinking,if you change the speed to run your blower,you will also slow down your mower deck when installed. I'm not sure that would work too well.

#6 fitzer OFFLINE  

fitzer

    New Member

  • Member
  • Member No: 4475
  • 9 Thanks
  • 21 posts
  • Location: Francis, Saskatchewan

Posted January 15, 2017 - 09:30 PM

I could always swap out pulleys again. But then, I don't have a deck for it anyhow.

#7 stiemmy OFFLINE  

stiemmy
  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 53712
  • 2,527 Thanks
  • 1,827 posts
  • Location: Freekin cold central WI

Posted January 15, 2017 - 10:12 PM

How about some pictures!!! :)

#8 ducky OFFLINE  

ducky

    Senior Member

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 564
  • 1,964 Thanks
  • 4,087 posts
  • Location: Freedom, WI

Posted January 15, 2017 - 11:12 PM

To change that lower sheave on the front PTO is going to be a royal pain. and if you are going to use the belly mower you will have to change it again, double royal pain.

I would look at reduction after the tractor PTO.


  • limebuzz said thank you

#9 Luke OFFLINE  

Luke

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 204
  • 173 Thanks
  • 399 posts
  • Location: Central Illinois

Posted January 16, 2017 - 02:35 AM

I'm all for retrofitting and saving a few bucks but I'd recommend just scrapping this idea and locating the correct blower for tractor.
I question the reliability if you start cobbling this together, Good Luck
  • ducky and limebuzz have said thanks

#10 fitzer OFFLINE  

fitzer

    New Member

  • Member
  • Member No: 4475
  • 9 Thanks
  • 21 posts
  • Location: Francis, Saskatchewan

Posted January 16, 2017 - 07:43 PM

To change that lower sheave on the front PTO is going to be a royal pain. and if you are going to use the belly mower you will have to change it again, double royal pain.
I would look at reduction after the tractor PTO.

Got it off. Had to heat and use a puller, but came off with 'straightenable' damage! Lol. I don't have a mower for it, but I assumed it mounted to the mid pto?

I'm all for retrofitting and saving a few bucks but I'd recommend just scrapping this idea and locating the correct blower for tractor.
I question the reliability if you start cobbling this together, Good Luck

Now, that sounds like a challenge! Now i gotta make it work! Lol! The correct blower is a single stage (as far as I can tell), and I prefer dual. My personal preference, although I have used both and both work fine. Plus, this blower is practically new and in good shape.

I picked up this tractor as a 'non-running' unit at an auction. It looked pretty rough when I saw it, but asked around, and found out the guy used it a lot. Blew the motor, took it to a small engine shop and had a new rebuilt dropped in. Took it home, used it for a week, and it stopped moving, so he parked it beside the shed for about five years. Motor turned over, so thought I'd see what it went for. I don't remember what bidding started at, but I brought it home for $75. Figured motor was worth that, if tractor was junk.
Long story short, threw gas in it, Onan fired up and ran like a top. Leaky trans axle seal, filled trans, and works pretty good. Hydraulics weak, but moves tractor good with lots of torque.

Anyway, here's a few pics for the guys asking for them. I came up with a couple more ideas today, but still decifering. I have no implements for this tractor, so it may just be a dedicated snowblower, front pto part of it anyway.20170116_164557.jpg 20170116_164715.jpg 20170116_164557.jpg

Attached Thumbnails

  • 20170116_164632.jpg


#11 fitzer OFFLINE  

fitzer

    New Member

  • Member
  • Member No: 4475
  • 9 Thanks
  • 21 posts
  • Location: Francis, Saskatchewan

Posted January 16, 2017 - 07:45 PM

Hmmmmmmm.....pics upside down. My bad......

#12 limebuzz OFFLINE  

limebuzz

    Member

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 795
  • 953 Thanks
  • 942 posts
  • Location: Bluevale Ontario

Posted January 16, 2017 - 08:01 PM

You could swap the top pulley too,you might have to reduce the size of the idler thou. Maybe not thou if you find the right size of belts,which will just put more pressure on the tensioner.I was always told"When there's a will,there's a way. Good luck. And nice grab on that work horse of a tractor.

#13 fitzer OFFLINE  

fitzer

    New Member

  • Member
  • Member No: 4475
  • 9 Thanks
  • 21 posts
  • Location: Francis, Saskatchewan

Posted January 16, 2017 - 08:32 PM

Swapping top pulley would be ideal. Unfortunately, because of it's design, pretty hard. But I am gonna look into getting a smaller one made. My dilemma is, I'm still investigating how small I can go, and still get good grip without overheating and blowing belts. The smaller I can go on top, the smaller I can go on driven end. There's lots of room for a 10 inch, but would get to about 5 inches off ground. Shouldn't be an issue, but fate being what it is, I'm sure something would nail it, and bend it.

Another option I thought of, but don't really want to do, is get rid of electric clutch all together, and mount small engine pulley directly on crankshaft. Then design some sort of 'manual' belt tightening system. Or, maybe an electric actuator? Not a fan of that idea, but a thought.

#14 Luke OFFLINE  

Luke

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 204
  • 173 Thanks
  • 399 posts
  • Location: Central Illinois

Posted January 16, 2017 - 09:06 PM

I gotta see this when you get it done......please give us some pictures!
Where there is a will.......there's a way.......good luck hope it works out for ya!

#15 fitzer OFFLINE  

fitzer

    New Member

  • Member
  • Member No: 4475
  • 9 Thanks
  • 21 posts
  • Location: Francis, Saskatchewan

Posted February 08, 2017 - 08:51 AM

Finally got a chance to work on it, and after a few trial and errors, think I got it where I'm happy enough.

First, I apologize for the crappie phone pics, but it hides my welding better!20170118_170833_resized.jpg 20170118_171341_resized.jpg 20170118_171250_resized.jpg
These are pics of top pulley. After taking off, you can see, there were two pulleys sandwiching 3 heavy washers to space them apart, bolted to clutch flange. So, simply mounting a smaller pulley wasn't that simple.

20170121_095329_resized.jpg 20170118_203228_resized_1.jpg
First try, I welded a 2-1/2" pulley to one of the washers. After doing that, I realized I should have spaced pulley away from washer a bit, as belt would rub against mounting bolts. So, I just ground heads of bolts down a bit, and belt slid by fine, and bolts still tightened fine.

20170118_175621_resized.jpg 20170118_200725_resized.jpg
For the bottom, blower came with a 8" pulley for hookup on a craftsman tractor. I cut out center hub. I then cut out splined hub from original Massey lower pulley. Drilled 4 holes in splined hub plate, and new 8" pulley and bolted them together, with enough spacers to let belt line up.20170121_100709_resized.jpg
As you can see, I had to cut out enough front frame to allow sliding front pulley on shaft.
Because the new pulleys ended up spaced out about 1/2" farther than originals, I added a spacer to the idler as well.20170121_100653_resized.jpg
The pic looks like pulleys aren't aligned, but they were. I'm blaming cheap phone. I went out and tried it with a 4L belt, and it worked good for about 5 minutes, then it started slipping. Just what I was afraid of with such a small drive pulley. I put on a B width belt, and it worked much better. But, because of the extra width,it was rubbing on the upper pulley mounting bolts. Wouldn't last long, and felt I couldn't grind any more bolt head off. So, took it all apart, cut heads of bolts off, welded them to washer, and made studs out of them. Tried it again, and worked good. After about an hour of blowing though, I could tell it was slipping too. Just too small of a pulley to gethe good friction grip.

20170121_095329_resized.jpg 20170127_214340_resized.jpg
So, I double pulleyed everything. Probably would have worked better, but original idler wasn't wide enough, so had to buy a new pair of flat idler pulleys. Well, I don't know why, but the only flat idlers I could find, we're over $30 apiece! And,.....me being a tight wad.......went a different route again!

20170205_150854_resized.jpg 20170205_150908_resized.jpg 20170205_150920_resized.jpg
2 sprockets and idler sprocket ended up being cheaper than 2 idler pulleys. About 35 bucks. Because the hub on drive pulley spaced sprocket out even farther, I had to space lower sprocket out about another inch. Same with tensioner idler sprocket. I was concerned about going chain, because there would be absolutely no slippage, if I hit something. Well, when I tried it, I did hit a hidden branch under the snow that the dogs had been playing with. But, snapped a shear pin, and all was good! Actually, did it again two more times. Just broke shear pins. Awesome! As you can see, I mounted another idler pulley on drive side, as under full throttle, the chain was bouncing a bit more than I was comfortable with. My plan was to just try system out, to see if it would work OK, and then replace idler pulley with a nylon bushing. But I was out for about 4 hours, 'playing' with it, and it worked very well. After all that time, idler pulley had no wear, and chain didn't either. So for now, I may just leave as is. Being a chain drive, especially with the idler pulley, it's definately noisier than belt drive, but not too bad. I'm happy at this point. Plus, the original pulleys are still on, all be it only a single. If for some reason I need original setup, I'm sure I could source some used one from the good people on GT Talk!
  • limebuzz said thank you




Top