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"stiff" Kohler KT17QS in accidently purchased Bolens 5017G

kohler kt17qs bolens 5017g eliminator 1700 50333 tiller

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#1 Brewwurst OFFLINE  

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Posted January 09, 2017 - 09:52 PM

So, I did something stupid: purchased a 1983-ish medium frame looking Bolens with a nice rototiller on it with the thought of using the tiller on my 1668, and just selling the tractor.

 

I dragged the tractor home, looked up the tractor spec,  and.... it is NOT an XL frame, it's a 5017G, whatever that is.

 

Anyway, it has a Kohler KT17QS engine which would initially not turn over when I tried to start it.  I ended up putting a pipe wrench and cheater bar on the "collar" where the drive shaft connects to the engine, about 150 ft-lbs later the engine now turns with the pipe wrench, and the starter can now turn it also.  NOW THE QUESTION: do I just try to start it, or would it be a good idea to first.....

 

maybe change the oil,

squirt some oil into the cylinders

take the cylinders out and clean them up before starting

 

 

2nd QUESTION: I know the Bolens documentation says that a tiller (50333) from a 5017 will not fit on an XL medium frame, but, has anyone every tried it?  Maybe it is possible to take the "rear panel" (frame part that connects the left and right frame halves at the rear of the tractor) off the 5017G and put it on the 1668, ...  I'm getting a headache thinking just about it...

 

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks

Brad


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#2 JBRamsey OFFLINE  

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Posted January 09, 2017 - 10:03 PM

You should have already squirted oil or transmission fluid in the cylinders and let it soak before putting a pipe wrench on it.
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#3 ClassicBolens OFFLINE  

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Posted January 10, 2017 - 12:09 AM

The 18315 and 18322 tillers were the correct models for the 1668. Those tillers had a 3/4" 6 spline input shaft like the old Tube Frames. The driveshaft was 1" 15 spline on the PTO end, 3/4" 6 spline on the tiller end.
The 50333 tiller has the 1" 15 spline input shaft. Driveshaft is 1" 15 spline on both ends. The installation on the 5017 and the 1668 is very similar. You can use the mounting hardware off of the 5017G on the 1668. Check out the parts manuals for the 50333, 18315 and 18322 for comparison. There are some differences, but should be easy enought to remedy.

The biggest issue would be getting a driveshaft that is the correct length. The 50333 tiller driveshaft for the 5017G is 52.72", where the driveshaft for the correct 1668 tiller was either 50.062", 54.312" or 51.187", all dependent on which PTO kit (18309 or 18318) you have paired with which tiller model (18315 or 18322).

As for KT17, I would've definitely soaked the cylinders for a while, and change the oil before proceding much further. Never know, you might get lucky. Hopefully it will free up and make a good runner.
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#4 glgrumpy OFFLINE  

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Posted January 10, 2017 - 06:51 AM

Pull plugs, make sure both pistons move. Many blow rod one side and thru case and have seen still running on one side.
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#5 glgrumpy OFFLINE  

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Posted January 15, 2017 - 04:27 PM

So, what was progress on this project? 



#6 WNYTractorTinkerer OFFLINE  

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Posted January 15, 2017 - 04:33 PM

So, what was progress on this project? 

Must be he's waiting for you to come over & help him!!   :wave:


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#7 Brewwurst OFFLINE  

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Posted January 16, 2017 - 10:40 PM

Sorry, had to clean the barn before you guys arrive!

 

So, motor turns over, has blue colored spark, but does not try to start with ether sprayed into the carb, or into the cylinders..

 

left side has compression (65 psi per HF $25 compression gauge), right side has a stuck valve.  I plan to try to get the right side head off without taking to motor off, and dousing the valve with PB blaster.  If you guys have any other recommendations, please let me know.  Or you can keep quite, and read my updates for laughs when I do it the hard way. :D

 

Oh, sold the tiller instead of trying to make it work on my 1668.


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