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Something wrong with Transmission


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#31 tater195 ONLINE  

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Posted January 06, 2017 - 12:58 PM

The problem I have with the "run it til it brakes" method is it never brakes sitting in the shop, it is when you are in the middle of a job. The priority shifts to fixing what broke and the original job gets put on hold. The one bad part sometimes has a way of screwing up several more when it quits.  Not something I want to happen if I am trying to open the driveway so I can get to work.


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#32 MiCarl OFFLINE  

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Posted January 06, 2017 - 01:01 PM

The damage probably happened when the shifter got loused up.  I wouldn't try to run it.

If it were mine I'd tear it down, figure out what I needed and contact Olympic gear.  Compare cost to whatever can be scrounged up.  Remember, if you rebuild this one you'll know what you have vs. buying someone else's problem.

 

If I were rebuilding it I'd come up with a more suitable fix to that speedometer drive hole.  Probably don't want to weld it (it could distort the case) but I'd look into threading it and putting in a proper plug.


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#33 JakeQT17 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 06, 2017 - 01:24 PM

The damage probably happened when the shifter got loused up.  I wouldn't try to run it.

If it were mine I'd tear it down, figure out what I needed and contact Olympic gear.  Compare cost to whatever can be scrounged up.  Remember, if you rebuild this one you'll know what you have vs. buying someone else's problem.

 

If I were rebuilding it I'd come up with a more suitable fix to that speedometer drive hole.  Probably don't want to weld it (it could distort the case) but I'd look into threading it and putting in a proper plug.

 

 

Thanks, I think that is the right approach as well. 



#34 MiCarl OFFLINE  

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Posted January 06, 2017 - 01:43 PM

Thanks, I think that is the right approach as well. 

More fun way to do it too!


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#35 JakeQT17 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 10, 2017 - 08:18 AM

After going back and forth I decided to pick up the good condition used transmission; mainly because I need to get the tractor up and running as soon as possible. 

 

Having never put a transmission in anything before; I'd much appreciate any advice you can give me on how to do it. I haven't been able to find much online. 

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#36 glgrumpy OFFLINE  

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Posted January 15, 2017 - 04:26 PM

See pictures, but how did you get that out??  You would have to move trans/clutch forward OR the rear backward, both hard to do to remove. Doesn't look like front moved?  Anyway, if you look thru past postings on this forum, there are many pictures and writings of working on the trans and you should find help there. Most have removed the hood and engine mount bolts and pulled it forward to get trans off. Also, many take the clutch section off with the trans too, which was not done here. If you assemble this way, take some sprays and clean up that clutch area there a bit before assembly. Should be some grease on pilot and arms of the throw-out forks, and on the trans front bearing support for the items to move easy. It is much easier to move engine area than to remove the rear-end assembly. Rear you would have to tear into bull cases to get bolts out of frame, a lot of work, that also leads to more things to work on once you get into it.


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